Sunday, February 10, 2019

On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 3


A volcano crater, blue sky and clouds on the Big Island (Bonnie Schupp photos)

 

Tops no longer blowing,

Big Island volcanoes

back in visitor business


Lava leaves its mark... for a very long time


When you think Hawaii and volcano in the same sentence these days, the immediate image that comes to mind is last year’s eruption of Kilauea that consumed nearby communities, forced some 2,000 residents to flee and sent ash and fumes skyward as molten lava flowed into the sea. It put a damper on local tourism, even giving Bonnie and me second thoughts about the where and when of visiting.

But it’s been calm there for months, and volcano country was the goal of our longest drive around the Big Island from our hotel in Kona on the last full day of our initial stay there – heading south, then east and northward along Route 11 for about 100 mostly scenic miles to the national park entrance. (Views of the Pacific Ocean are a constant distraction, of course.)

We had to stop at one beach, drawn in by the roadway sign – for the Punalu’u black sand beach. It is the result of countless centuries of ocean waves pounding lava rock into submission. It felt like ordinary sand, and many families were there enjoying the surf and sun. It is sand, but it just looks odd.
RIP Jack memorial at black sand beach

We found on the beach a memorial fashioned from lava rocks, with a small smooth stone that had the word “happy” on one side, and RIP Jack on the other.  Perhaps some of his ashes had been left there as well. Who knows? But it was beautiful and eloquent for this Jack, who must have loved this unique place.

During the drive, it became apparent to us that we both had forgotten to bring our lifetime senior park passes.

Admission to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is $25, but the nice ranger lady at the gate suggested buying an annual seniors pass for $20 – saving us money there and, later, at National Park Service attractions on Maui and Kauai.

Half or more of the park remains closed in the wake of the May eruption, but it still takes hours to explore open areas along the Chain of Craters Road more than 20 miles down to the ocean – following the track of lava flows from earlier eruptions looking like a sea of black rock or torn-up chunks of asphalt. The craters vary in size and shape, and there’s even one featuring echoes. Bonnie tried shouting, “I love you,” but the bounce-back a second later was slight. “Not loud enough,” I bellowed in response, amusing a few of the other tourists.

End of the crater road, where waves meet lava cliffs.
At the end of the road, Pacific waves crash beautifully against the rock cliffs as visitors try to take selfies with the best background views, including a lava arch. And one man was battling the wind trying to get a kite airborne. Its shape seemed appropriate to our adventures on the Big Island – an octopus.

Rather than driving back the way we came, we navigated further northward toward the town of Hilo and found dinner at a small Korean-American restaurant. Bonnie had a rice dish and I had my favorite on unfamiliar culinary turf: A hamburger. And it was pretty good. Then, in darkness, we drove for more than an hour across the island on a middle route known as the Saddle Road – rising across mountainous terrain, through mist, fog and rain, and back to sea level at Kona… pretty much exhausted.

The next morning took us back to the airport, returning our upgraded and relatively luxurious “full size” Nissan Altima and flying to our second island – Maui.
  
Up next: More beaches, scary roads and a better volcano!

Saturday, February 2, 2019

On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 2

Bonnie and I prepare to meet the octopuses.

Octopus encounter

an eerie experience

for visitors to Kona


Tentacular cuddles and a cephalapodian prankster



It was our friend Fred's fault, really -- he was here about a week ago, on a vacation trip from Annapolis, and said we'd really like a cephalopod experience, specifically the Kanaloa Octopus Farm on the western tip of Kona near the laid-back international airport.

The tickets are mostly sold online, at $30 per adult, to reserve a spot for a very odd farm tour offered just twice a day, at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. You drive down Kaiminani Road, and hang a right on Makako Bay Drive, past a scenic ocean beach and a line of industrial-looking buildings that are part of the Hawai'i Ocean Science and Technology Park.

Past the abalone farm, past the  lobster farm, through the gate and left to a small row of parking spots next to a structure that could pass for the entrance to a circus sideshow. But it is really the gift shop, and a crowd of close to 30 people, including several young children, slowly assembles there for the afternoon tour led by a budding young marine biologist named Marki.

We decided not to buy any of the adorable stuffed animal octopuses or other merchandise, including the $20 octopus farm coffee mug... guaranteed to be a conversation piece.

Marki leads us past three aquarium tanks inhabitated by a few pretty fish, but no apparent cephalopoids, to a large enclosure lined with a double row of tubs... most of them containing one adult octopus, and most of the critters hiding in a little domed rock "cave" at the bottom. They have toys floating on the surface, like rubber duckies, a rubber elephant, a red fishing line float.

After washing hands to remove the likes of dirt, lotions or other contaminants, visitors are instructed to gently wiggle fingers in the water to spark the curiosity of the octopuses, each of which has a name posted on the side of its tank. And after a few minutes they glided out of their caves and extended sucker-lined tentacles toward the surface... and the fingers. And as they feel, or attach suckers to pull at the fingers, you get to play with them.

Several of the children squealed nervously, even pulling back their hands, at first contact. Because these boneless creatures are rather eerie. And you get a sense that these octopuses are both self-aware, and intelligent in their interactions.

Marki said anyone with an underwater camera could use it in the tub, but cautioned that the octopuses would likely try to grab it and try their tentacles at taking selfies. A tiny GoPro  camera was a big hit, and the animal's' attempt to wrest it away from a father's hand doubtless made for a thrilling video.

My playful pal Monty changes color from spotted brown to white.
I cannot remember the name of my first octopus. But when it tired of my fingers, I turned to an adjacent tank and met the rambunctious Monty. He was a tease, tugging at my fingers, then gliding back, and repeating the game, and as I made a little close eye contact he expelled a burst of water like firing an internal water gun.

He missed. And then he tried again, and missed again.

My favorite, though, was the littler Lily, who seemed to enjoy tentacular cudding with my left hand (see video below).


There was also an opportunity to feed them, and the creatures seem to sense after 15 minutes of play with their visitors that chow time has arrived. They pluck bits of crab from fingertips and use their tentacles to place them in their beak-like mouth.

Octopuses are found on the ocean shelf off the Kona coast, and the farm specimens mostly were caught and brought in by commercial fishing crews. But most octopuses caught at sea do not fare as well, ending up on dinner plates. Many folks consider them a delicacy.

The money from tour tickets, and sales in the gift shop, support the octopus farm's experimental efforts at breeding the creatures in captivity, and trying -- so far without success -- to raise them from hatchlings so tiny that they become distinguishable only under magnification. Marki sucked up more than a dozen from a tank using an eye-dropper, and put them in a tiny pool on a slide under a microscope. The teeny swimmers looked like squid.

Unfortunately, Marki said, the farm has been unable to get beyond 12 days of survival before these infant octopuses perish. And there's a lot of death here. A female produces hundreds of thousands of eggs.

Getting them fertilized is another issue -- because a female that is unimpressed by an introduced male octopus might well severely injure it or grab off a tentacle. (They can grow new ones, fortunately, but the cephalopodian sex life is rather perilous.)

The farm is awaiting the arrival of new equipment that will circulate the cold ocean water pumped in from the nearby seabed -- a necessity at keeping the babes alive. And eventually, if the scientific hurdles are overcome, there's hope of creating a sustainable supply of octopuses for the market instead of taking them in large numbers from the sea.



Meanwhile, Monty, Lily and friends aren't going anywhere in the restaurant kingdom... or anywhere else, barring an improbable getaway. Marki said there are occasional escapes from the tubs, but they flounder on the stones underfoot in the farm, spread their tentacles out helplessly and quickly begin to dry out in the warm Kona environment. They breathe through gills, like fish, and must be picked up and returned to the tub.

Octopuses that survive infancy in the real world grow to maturing quickly, but have a short lifespan -- and those here at the farm may live just two to three years.

It's not easy being a mottled brown, or in an instant chalky white or some other color cephalopod. Almost forgot to mention they change color in a flash as a defensive -- or offensive -- tactic. Strange critters, indeed.

Above the ocean, a street festival


We headed for the hills near sunset for the monthly First Friday Art After Dark celebration in Holualoa Village,  about five miles from and perhaps 1,500 feet above the beachfront town of Kona. And we were not alone. Over the past couple of years, a small event has become a huge happening -- hundreds of people exploring a quarter-mile stretch of the village's main street, lined with art galleries and shops, lining up for dinner or snacks from a variety of food truck-style vendors, and close to a dozen musical performers.

One of the performances in Holualoa's First Friday fun

I made a cell phone video of a group featuring ukelele, guitar and keyboard outside a ukelele shop, where an older Hawaiian man was inside strumming an old instrument and visitors were trying out some of the ones for sale. (Eventually, when I figure out how to move it from MY cellphone, I'll add it here!)

Some shops offered free snacks, and two were dispensing iced hibiscus tea... and it was terrific.

The artwork was largely high-end quality, with prices ranging from under a hundred dollars into the thousands, The most expensive seemed to be, of all things, an excellent sculpture of... wait for it... an octopus, crafted from recycled material. It was priced at $12,000 -- a little higher than a sea turtle by the same artist, at $8,000.

A little roadside amusement


Driving back from the north near sunset Thursday, I noticed an odd sign along the coastal Route 19. With a spare half hour before our octopian encounter, we headed about 10 miles past the airport to find it in the early afternoon. And I found one facing the northbound traffic above a mile and a half above a donkey-crossing zone  on the 55 mph highway.

It was one of those adopt-a-highway, litter-fighting signs with local sponsors. This one stood out, though, from the likes of company names or civic group, reading: Psychotic State Racing.

Bonnie took the picture, and on our way back to the octopus farm entrance road she Googled the name -- turns out, it's a local car fancier group with a sense of humor. She posted the picture on Instagram, and the group replied online with its appreciation.

We are so connected.

Coming soon, hopefully: Volcano country
 




Friday, February 1, 2019

On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 1




Rob Yagi stands with a surviving Wiliwili. (Photos (c) by Bonnie Schupp)

 

Chance encounter

provides a lesson

in forest conservation

 Hawaii gives us the (Wili)willies



Timing is everything. Take, for example, our encounter on our first full day in Hawaii with the keeper of the Wiliwili trees.

His name is Rob Yagi, and Bonnie and I met him by chance near an odd roadside sculpture of sorts pointing skyward northeast of Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. Bonnie was taking pictures and I walked back toward our rental car, exchanging waves with a chap who had just pulled up in a small work van. I pointed quizzically at the sky-pointer above us, and Rob stepped toward me to chat.

As best he could tell, the artistic piece harked to directional beacons of early Hawaiians, pointing to stars used for navigation. Then we chatted about the area, and about Rob, who it turned out works in tree conservation for a small nonprofit organization called the Waikoloa Dry Forest Initiative.

This valley between a pair of long-dormant volcanic peaks was once inhabited by a "closed canopy forest" of Wiliwili  trees, which in this dry climate (9 to 12 inches of rain annually) are relatively short in stature, have an orange shade of bark (a defense against high sun exposure) and a wide reach of thick branches. Yet the wood is extremely light -- used years ago in construction of native outrigger canoes.

Then came the goats and sheep -- brought to the island as a gift to the king a couple of centuries back, and protected by royal order. So the critters multiplied rapidly, enjoying in their flora buffet the bean-like seeds dropped in abundance by the Wiliwili, a prolific member of the pea family.  Eventually, ranchers got into the goat and sheep business, clearing out much of the forest for pasture land. And the Wiliwili, once a dominant feature of the landscape, largely vanished. They number now only in the dozens on the Big Island.

Rob led us down a highway to a narrow, bumpy asphalt lane, leading to the initiative's enclosure of about five acres where he is the caretaker. It is fenced to keep out wandering goats. Just inside the barrier stands one of the rare survivors. It even has been given a name, Hi'ialo, which means "Beloved," Rob says.

From our vehicles parked outside the fence, we walk along the lane past other rare foliage including shrub-like uhiuhi trees -- a cousin of the Wiliwili, but with a hard, dense wood, of which Rob says there may be only 50 remaining in the world, eight of them growing here in the preserve.

Finally, we reach the nursery inside yet another fence, where the 32-year-old Rob, with volunteers including young area school children, propagate seeds and plant little trees in an effort to recreate a piece of the closed canopy forest.

The Wiliwili is an odd tree. The leaves drop in summer, and when barren it flowers in orange leaves, and eventually drops twisted-pod beans to the ground. In the nursery, a couple of dozen baby Wiliwili trees are sprouting in tiny pots for eventual planting. And perhaps, in 25 years or so, some of those spreading branches will meet 15 or 20 feet off the volcanic ground... a rebirth of sorts for a little patch of Hawaii.

Getting here was (mostly) fun


We fled Maryland on Wednesday evening, Jan. 29, soon after rain turned to snow, and temperatures began plunging from an approaching polar vortex. Our Alaska Airlines flight was slightly delayed for cleaning and turnaround from the the international pier at Thurgood Marshall Baltimore-Washington International Airport, then we sat on the ground for a thorough de-icing before clearance for departure to San Francisco on the first leg of the journey.

But we were quite cozy in unexpected comfort, reinforcing our love for this airline.

We had arrived at BWI more than three hours earlier. The airport seemed deserted, perhaps the weather a factor. We used our Global Entry trusted traveler cards for the first time, not having to shed shoes and belts in passing through screening, and settled in to wait for boarding time. Having managed to secure upgrades from coach to better coach (4 inches of extra legroom, free drinks and snacks) on our previous two flights coming back from Alaska in 2016, I chatted up the nice lady overseeing the boarding gate counter to ask whether I might get lucky again.

It would be a nice gift for Bonnie, I said, noting this was our anniversary trip and the 50th state of our travels during  nearly four decades together. She asked for our boarding passes and said she would see what she could do.

About an hour later, we had an upgrade -- ending up, briefly, in premium class, just a row behind the majesty of First Class, and with an unsold seat that gave us a whole three-seat row to ourselves. Free drinks, too, and maybe even snacks during the six-hour flight across America.

I say briefly, because we were there settling in to the black leatherette seats for just 10 minutes. Then our Lady of the Boarding Gate stepped onto the plane and asked if we would like to.... hmmmm.... move up, just a row, to First Class. "Happy anniversary," she said.

And even if our actual anniversary would not be happening until Feb. 10, nearly two weeks into the trip, it was a great start. We even figured out the personal entertainment units that lift out of holding bins on the right side of the creamy-beige, wider, almost fully reclining seats with footrests, watching the movie "Crazy Rich Asians." We felt crazy rich.

For dinner, served on real plates with real cutlery and cloth napkins, I had ravioli and Bonnie the roasted cod, each served with veggies and a foil-wrapped Seattle Chocolates truffle. And she also had a couple of  (glass) glasses of white wine.

While Bonnie napped later, I enjoyed a second movie -- "The Post," which nearly brought me to tears in the 1971-era scene of the type for the Pentagon Papers story being clanked out from a pool of lead alloy metal on a Linotype machine, assembled in a page frame known as a "chase," and finally, after the tense scenes of high-level debate on whether The Washington Post could or should risk publishing it, the order being given to start the press run.

The jetliner began its descent into San Francisco, rumbling slightly as the press speed increased in the movie moment -- perhaps a little more rumble than the slight vibration i remember from that time in the Baltimore Sun's long-ago fifth-floor newsroom on Calvert Street when the first-edition press run was underway.

Our main steward on the flight, Taryn, handed us a card wishing us a happy anniversary, signed by her and two crew mates, before our speedy exit from the plane to baggage claim, just in time to catch the shuttle bus to a nearby Travelodge and a nap during the trip's only drawback -- a 14-hour overnight layover before a noon flight to Kona.

I think of it as a price paid for the other bargain. After our Alaska trip, we had opted to take the airline credit card with its $75 annual fee, earning in the process the deal of a buy-one, get-one for just taxes and fees, and a free checked bag apiece. And we could not schedule in a multi-day layover to visit friends in San Diego. It had to be a single itinerary with identical departure and destination airports, and the best-priced version available landed us overnight in 'Frisco. (The homebound trip will run 17 hours, from Kona to Sacramento to San Diego to BWI.)

The flight from SFO to Kona was fully booked, no upgrade possibility, and we squeezed into standard coach seats in Row 29, near the back of the plane. (Our seatmate on the aisle was a nice woman traveling with more than a dozen other family members from Utah to a week-long Hawaiian vacation. We chatted a bit about our respective lives, then worked at figuring how to activate our previously downloaded inflight entertainment app to watch movies on our respective iPads. (No back-of-seat, or side-of-seat screens on the older plane, alas. Just coffee, soft drinks, a cookie.)


That said, our round-trip deal came to just a tad over 800 bucks.

An otherworldly arrival


We landed at Kona International Airport in mid-afternoon on Thursday, disembarking on a ramp down to the tarmac and walking into an open-air village of sorts. People are sitting at what seemed like picnic tables near the incredibly informal gate.

The baggage arrived quickly, as did the Hertz rent-a-car shuttle to retrieve what we expected to be a Camry-like vehicle. As a Hertz Gold Club member (free, but you have to sign up for it), we found my name on the electronic greeting board directing us to our waiting car in Space 14. It was a Nissan Rogue SUV way bigger than what we wanted, and lacking a trunk to store stuff during adventures.

Inside at the counter (no waiting line in the Gold Club lane), an amiable lady clerk checked what else was available and offered up a "full size" Nissan Altima that felt just a tad bigger than an "intermediate" Camry, but pretty nifty. And off we went to check in at the Kona Holiday Inn Express, our home for a four-night stay.

We walked two short blocks down to the Pacific waterfront promenade for our first Hawaiian sunset, and dinner at a restaurant recommended by the front desk -- the slightly pricey, but very gourmet Fish Hopper. We split a $38 "Island Platter" of jumbo coconut fried shrimp, dungeness crab cake and blackened mahi-mahi, with sauteed veggies and sweet blue mashed potato, with a couple of glasses of wine for Bonnie and splitting an enormous slice of chocolate passion fruit-cream cake. It was all terrific, but the latter perhaps over-the-top unwise. Burp!

We were asleep by 10 p.m. Hawaii time -- about 3 a.m. back home in Maryland.

More adventures on the open road


An open-air breakfast
Breakfast is free at the hotel, the usual buffet of omelettes, sausage, muffins and biscuits, cinnamon buns, orange juice, coffee and fruit. But at this Holiday Inn Express, the poolside breakfast nook is open-air. Birds fly in for crumbs, and an occasional fly buzzes around looking for a landing zone on strawberry jam.

Well-stuffed, we were ready to take on the Big Island -- and solve a little problem.

Triple-check the stuff you pack before taking a long trip. Bonnie, in reconfiguring what went where, left a little plaid purse with two important prescription meds, medical insurance cards, a medical history printout, and her lifetime seniors National Parks pass.

We managed to arrange for her doc's office to fax prescriptions for short-term quantities to a pharmacy in Kona, only to learn that the CVS affiliate could not fill them for those particular drugs from an out-of-state physician. The pharmacy tossed out the faxes. So on our first full day of exploring, we happened upon an Urgent Care office and in a stopover of a bit less than two hours obtained a Hawaii doc's prescriptions, filled them at the CVS affiliate nearby, and while waiting there found Bonnie's tasty New Zealand wine from the Fish Hopper dinner on sale for 10 bucks a bottle.
Spam (and imitators) at the drug store

At the checkout counter, we also encountered a Hawaiian couple purchasing about a dozen cans of Spam --  introduced as a convenience food for American soldiers in World War II, now a much-loved staple in the local diet, and easily stored on a shelf for emergencies. It is even served as a breakfast item at McDonalds here, they noted. 

Other than not having the parks pass, life was back to normal -- and back in the car, we found our way northeasterly across a mountain road to elevations of about 3,000 feet above the ocean, drove through occasional clouds and rain, savored the impressionist-looking sight of trees enshrouded by mist, and inspected bits of dead coral washed up by the ocean.

A great rainbow view in the eastern sky.
And as we stepped out of the car near waves crashing into volcano-deposited black boulders on a west-shore beach, a brilliant 180-degree rainbow graced the sky east from the setting sun.

Back at the hotel about 6:30 p.m., we asked our friendly desk clerk for another restaurant recommendation, perhaps one more modest in price where locals eat. She pointed across the the parking lot, across the road, to The Island Grill. It was packed, with six groups waiting for tables, and most of the patrons were Hawaiians, many with children in tow.

Dinner was unusual, to say the least -- a dish named the "Moco Loco," with the most elaborate and costly version at $14.95 featuring a bed of steamed rice topped by two scrambled eggs and the choice of three items from a list of other garnishments.
Dinner at The Island Grill

 We picked fried shrimp, panko-crusted pounded fried chicken breast and a corned beef patty, with a glass of Pinot Grigio for Bonnie and a cup of Kona-blend coffee for me. With tip, it came to just under $30.

A bit of travel philosophy   

Bonnie, with camera and coastal view
Dealing with the prescriptions problem was the reason we intersected at that roadside sky-pointer with forest conservationist Rob Yagi.  As I noted at the top of this blog post, timing is everything. And you have to be open to possibilities.

We may have planned flights, and rental cars, and places to stay on three islands before we get back home, but from day to day, life happens. And we seem always to be the better for it.

Tomorrow: An octopian encounter













 

Wednesday, August 29, 2018

On the Road Again, Chapter 12




Cabinet Room at the Clinton Library: I'm in charge! (Photos by Bonnie J. Schupp)



 A visit to Clinton Country

in search of kneepads,

then Tenn. to visit friends

Clinton Library, aquarium adventures



Back home for close to three months, and I am reminded -- several times a week -- that Chapter 12 of our Great American Road Trip is way overdue. Maybe it's just hard to wrap up so wonderful (and exhausting) an adventure as a coast-to-coast drive.

 Some folks have asked what I considered the highlight. Beyond five days in Utah -- making new friends and experiencing a very different lifestyle -- and reacquainting with old friends in several other stops, that's tough to answer.

Several places I wish we'd had more time to explore, among them Little Rock, Arkansas. We had passed through the state on an earlier road trip years ago, when we drove to New Orleans and Dallas. I barely remembered it.
Clinton Library, Little Rock




Not so this time, thanks to our first experience of visiting a presidential library -- a complex overlooking the Arkansas River in the heart of Billary Clinton Country just minutes off Interstate 40. 

We had scoped the place online, and managed to arrive minutes before the 2 p.m. closing time for lunch at the William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum's very pleasant basement restaurant -- with tablecloth, cloth napkins, gracious service, excellent burgers and fries, and for Bonnie a generously poured and presidentially-designed-chilled-glass of white wine. The bill came to about 30 bucks.

Admission to the library and museum, covering three upper floors of exhibit areas, was $8 each (seniors rate -- younger adults pay $10). 

Towers of books with presidential papers
If there is a centerpiece, perhaps it is the display few visitors have time to explore -- the towering shelves of blue-bound books containing millions of documents from Bill Clinton's eight-year presidency, so many volumes that even the hundreds upon hundreds visible there represent but a large portion of the entirety.

And that left us wondering what an eventual Trump library might house... would the presidency of an ineloquent man who seems barely interested in the written word generate so large a mass of records? The joke, inevitably, is that it would likely contain a porn peep show featuring the collected works of Stephanie Clifford, and a magazine collection of Karen McDougal centerfolds.

A digression on morality

I know what you're thinking now: Bubba himself was not Mr. Morality before or during his presidency.

So let's address the Donkey in the Room: There are no kneepads evident under Bill's desk in the impressive, full-size recreation of the Oval Office. And in three hours of exploring the exhibits, we found no mention of Monica (though I have since been informed of an alcove on the second floor with material on the investigation by independent counsel Ken Starr) -- only the inclusion, on a Clinton timeline running across a wall the length of the building, of the House of Representatives vote to impeach him, the subsequent acquittal by the Senate, and the president's apology to the nation for his improper conduct.

The Capitol Hill drama played out 20 years ago,  in the post-election, lame duck days of the 105th Congress and early weeks of the 106th -- in a House and Senate that both remained Republican majority.  While it takes only a majority vote in the House for impeachment, removal of the president requires two-thirds in the Senate, and those numbers illustrate the difficulty of the removal process.

Just two of the four articles of impeachment before the House received majority votes, and both failed in the subsequent trial played out in the Senate -- the party line vote of 45-55 on perjury to a grand jury, and a 50-50 vote on obstruction of justice, both substantially failing to meet the required 67 for conviction and removal of the president.

Those votes echo forward in time, as we approach the 2018 midterm elections. In the event of Democrats taking control in the House, an impeachment proceeding against Donald Trump becomes a distinct possibility. But even if Republicans also lose the Senate, it will take overwhelming evidence of criminality to persuade enough of those remaining to join Democrats in giving Trump the bum's rush out of the White House. (This, even as a Pence presidency might be deemed more appealing to conservative tastes.)

So that's the thoughts generated just by a cursory look at the Clinton Library. But there was plenty more to see, including a replica of the Cabinet meeting room (top photo), cases upon cases of gifts received by the Clintons during the presidency, all manner of political bric-a-brac,  a loop of comical Bill-and-Hillary videos (unlike Trump, they showed a sense of humor even while under political attack), and a multi-floor temporary exhibition of presidential-era and campaign music across generations.

Unfortunately, the only photography allowed inside the Oval Office is done by a museum staffer -- so if you want your picture taken there, it will cost at least 15 bucks. But that seemed to be the only extra cost for visitors, other than a splurge in the souvenir and book shop where Bonnie bought an autographed copy of presidential daughter Chelsea Clinton's children's book, "She Persisted Around the World / 13 Women Who Changed History," and another titled "Photos That Changed the World."

Politics rocks!



Much of the material in the library and its exhibits are property of the National Archives. But the temporary show,  "Louder Than Words – Rock, Power, and Politics," which ended in early August was created by the Newseum in Washington.

And there are still opportunities to see it elsewhere: at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights in Winnipeg, March 12 to Sept. 4, 1919; at the Durham Museum in Omaha, Neb., Oct. 13, 2019, to Feb. 3, 2020; and at the George H.W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum in College Station, Texas, March 2, 2020, to Jan. 4, 2021.

A public affairs officer at the National Archives and Records Administration noted that presidential "libraries" may be different in the future -- starting with Barack Obama's, which will be a museum. Reference material will be available digitally.

She said such institutions can be an "uneasy" marriage of museum and library -- and  that Richard Nixon's in Yorba Linda, Calif., was at first just a museum, out of concern at  how the Watergate scandal would be presented. Notably, its collection now includes some 3,700 hours of recordings known as "the White House Tapes."

Homeward through Tennessee

Interstate 40 took us toward Nashville, and a turn south on I-24 to Chattanooga -- areas we had visited before, but this time intended for catching up with friends.

In 2012, we flew to the West Coast for three weeks of exploration and a wedding. The latter was Bonnie's first as an officiant, in her capacity as an ordained minister of the online Universal Life Church. The happy couple Tara and Christian, happy to say, still are.

The couple have since moved to a suburb of Chattanooga, where Christian -- after getting his bachelor's degree in the field and waiting several years for a job opening -- has become an air-traffic controller, and Tara is an entrepreneur in the field of online marketing.
Bonnie, Me, Christian and Tara (Expensive souvenir photo)

They had not yet seen a highlight of their new city -- the Tennessee Aquarium. So that became our main adventure there, exploring its two buildings on opposite corners of an open-air (and in early June, very hot) bustling center of tourism. The aquarium opened in 1992, with similarities to, and designed by the same company as, Baltimore's National Aquarium a decade earlier. Admission is 30 bucks -- cheaper than Baltimore's, but the Imax movie at an extra eight dollars makes up most of the difference.

We bought aquarium hats!
The overall layout seemed easier to navigate, and less congested, indicating its designers had rethought and improved upon the Baltimore project. And there is a focusing concept in its tracking of the path of water from Appalachian mountains to the sea.

Quirky art in Nashville
After two nights with Tara and Christian, we retraced our route up I-24 to the town of Columbia, 40 minutes from Nashville, where our photographer friend Brycia and her son Andrew had recently moved. We explored a little of the big city in search of quirky art we had missed on a shorter road trip months earlier, when we moved a carload of odds and ends to Brycia's new house. (On that trip, I left behind my new iPad -- which was subsequently found sitting plugged in on the floor, amusingly visible to an interior security camera.)

And then, in a final burst of stamina, we drove straight from Tennessee back home to Maryland -- the last 740 miles of the journey (stopping only for food, fuel and rest stops) in about 12 hours.
Andrew and Brycia, and a silvery bird

 From its beginning about 10 a.m. on May 8 to the ending of the journey late on June 6, our trusty 2012 Toyota Camry's trip-o-meter tally: 7,528 miles. We drove through portions of 20 states, including an odd corner of Georgia that cuts across about a mile of Interstate 24.

The next big trip we're planning is Hawaii, the only state we have not visited among the 50. Fortunately, perhaps, we won't drive to get there. The road just doesn't go that far.



Our route across America