tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-85147030164989610932024-02-19T00:22:36.705-05:00The Real MuckDavid Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.comBlogger164125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-61480554871658773572023-12-19T04:27:00.000-05:002023-12-19T04:27:52.563-05:00My Christmas story<p><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> <br /></span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Oh, Christmas tree --<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGMHPjPN8exXtEC7QwnjuSDWfgqbWOUZA1Wbk0XO6bcFHvaGRSIYIA3a3ygaSok-lidlUqw6NkUAsN5wAHi1HRadC_hLivCQ3xBoHFtBO_e6URsdiqc27zEbydUCnXPjH4ZD411HunOGtngvFEmtUUiUCErRT2tztcm3IPLAl6PWfH8Q9cHo23AzmvMMw/s206/Christmas%20tree%202023%20David.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="155" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGMHPjPN8exXtEC7QwnjuSDWfgqbWOUZA1Wbk0XO6bcFHvaGRSIYIA3a3ygaSok-lidlUqw6NkUAsN5wAHi1HRadC_hLivCQ3xBoHFtBO_e6URsdiqc27zEbydUCnXPjH4ZD411HunOGtngvFEmtUUiUCErRT2tztcm3IPLAl6PWfH8Q9cHo23AzmvMMw/w150-h200/Christmas%20tree%202023%20David.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The author, 2023</b><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b> what a spell</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b> you cast on me</b></span></p><p> For most of my life, I've had a love-hate relationship with Christmas trees. I even told about this a mere 16 years ago on a stage in front of an audience of hundreds of people, in a Baltimore show called Stoop Storytelling. The theme of the night: Holidays From Hell, Part Deux. </p><p> Blame it on my childhood. When I was growing up, my parents never had a Christmas tree.</p><p> Well, maybe that's understandable. After all, we were Jewish.</p><p> One year, my father took me across our street in Northwest Baltimore, to visit a neighbor family and see what Christmas looked like. It was the home of the Landsmans -- Ray and Dorothy, and more kids than I could quickly count.</p><p> Ray was Baltimore's first Jewish police lieutenant, but Dorothy was Catholic and they came to an agreement that their children (about a dozen of them, all with names beginning with the letter 'J') would be raised in the Catholic faith. </p><p> They had a tree, presents in various stages of unwrap, the kids running around in seeming chaos, the smell of a ham in the oven wafting out from the kitchen, and Dorothy upstairs in bed nursing the youngest of their brood. The Madonna of Royce Avenue. Close to 70 years later, I still remember it.</p><p> We celebrated Hanukkah, of course. But no, we didn't have the proverbial Hanukkah bush. I had a modest Lionel electric train set, with a small figure-eight track that wrapped around a leg of our rarely-used dining room table. My father Ben set up the train every year for the holiday season, and by New Year's Day it was gone back into storage.</p><p> <b><i><span style="font-size: medium;">The Jewish dropout</span></i></b></p><p> Religion was not all that important to me. I had a nasty teacher in Hebrew school -- and early in fourth grade I walked out of the class in anger and never went back. My parents got a call from the school two weeks later asking why I hadn't been attending. </p><p>We had a difficult conversation in which I was threatened with punishment, but the crisis was resolved with a compromise of taking private lessons for my bar mitzvah. And at 13, after the synagogue ceremony through which a boy becomes a man, I became a religion dropout as well.</p><p> At 19, in a courthouse ceremony, I married a girlfriend, Vol, who had been raised in a Christian family -- but like me, religion was not relevant to her life. But there was this little thing that carried forward: She/we had to have a Christmas tree. In our mid-20s we also had a daughter. And in one of my last pictures of us as a family, she and our 4-year-old Jennifer (who later changed her name to FL) are sitting by the tree with presents. </p><p>A few months later, after a decade together, our marriage ended.</p><p> And I got married again. My second wife, Kathleen, also had been raised as a Christian, and like the first she came hard-wired for Christmas. We even once attended the midnight Christmas Eve service at the nearby Lovely Lane -- known as the mother church of American Methodism. It was, in fact, lovely. </p><p>As for our tree, she believed in buying good ornaments -- and for my young daughter, a top-quality stuffed animal lion she named Li-Li (pron: lie-lie) that saw her through some challenging times as she bounced between parents in Baltimore and Florida.</p><p> Marriage number two lasted about four years, and when Kathleen departed I was left with ornaments including a small herd of beautiful silken carousel horses and elephants that had graced our trees.</p><p><b><i><span style="font-size: medium;"> The third proves the charm</span></i></b></p><p> And I got married again. Yup, third Christian for this lapsed Jew -- this one not only having had a strong religious upbringing, but playing the organ in church and at age 12 leading a cherub choir. </p><p>Attending Frostburg state college in Western Maryland, she made a point of going to services at every church in town -- eventually becoming the lone white person in the only black church there. The minister. Joe Gipson, became a friend, and after services each Sunday she traveled with him about nine miles down the road to Cumberland for his services at a second black church.
She was their pianist.</p><p> And near her 1967 graduation, when Bonnie married the first time, Joe was the soloist singing at her Baltimore church wedding.</p><p> When we embarked on a life together in 1980, in our mid-30s, a Unitarian minister who was a favorite customer in her camera store, Bill Barnett, officiated the wedding in the living room of her little house just south of the city. And six weeks later, the daughter we created together was born.</p><p> We began attending Bill's Unitarian Universalist church in Annapolis, which I enjoyed whenever I managed to stay awake during services. We wanted our daughters to benefit from its ecumenical education program, which was free of dogma and included sex education. Its services drew on beliefs and traditions from multiple faiths, with Christmas seeming to have a far greater joy than Easter. The existence of Christ was pretty much acknowledged, but for some in the congregation not necessarily a resurrection.</p><p> At home, of course, we had a Christmas tree. Fortunately, Bonnie took care of decorating it. I just didn't enjoy the task -- or, for that matter, having to buy a damn tree every year. At least Bonnie preferred trees that were a little bare of branches. Lush trees did not show off the ornaments as well. Not quite a sad Charlie Brown tree, but one that looked good with its bare spots in back facing a wall. And usually priced lower than the "good" trees.</p><p> And our collection of ornaments began to grow. The horses and elephants from my days with Kathleen galloped and trumpeted beautifully in company with "Baby's First Christmas" ornaments from 1944 (Bonnie Jean) and 1980 (daughter Lauren), little mice, a rhino and a hippo, lace snowflakes, intricate balls crafted by a blind Frostburg college friend decades ago, a German shepherd harking (not barking) to our dog Miss T, favorite teacher ornaments given to Bonnie by middle school students during her career as an educator, a tiny baseball symbolic of the too-much-attention I gave to my favorite spectator sport.</p><p><b><i><span style="font-size: medium;"> And now, a dark turn...</span></i></b></p><p> In 1994, I had a great idea: Why do we have to buy a tree? Why don't we walk into the woods near our home in suburban Pasadena and get one the old-fashioned way.
Bonnie reluctantly agreed to my plan. </p><p>Daughter Lauren, then all of 14 years old, was invited to join us on that December night, and was not so keen about the idea.</p><p> "You mean you're going steal a tree?" she said. "Why don't you just buy a tree?"</p><p> "I think poach would be a better term," I replied.</p><p> So it was just me and Bonnie heading out about 11 o'clock, under a full moon on a foggy and unseasonably warm winter night. It seemed incredibly romantic. I drove us in our station wagon the nearly quarter-mile to edge of the woods, and, carrying a saw, was leading the way on its path in my usual fashion -- to make sure any residual spider webs did not reach my bride. </p><p> A little more than a tenth of mile into the woods, the path takes a curve and as I stepped ahead of Bonnie, she encountered an unexpected obstacle. I heard a thud and a cry of pain, and turned to find she had slipped in a small patch of mud and was thrashing around on the ground.</p><p> I reached to help her up, and saw the bone protruding from her left wrist.
We managed to get her standing, and as she was shaking I held her right arm on the short walk back to the parking spot. I gallantly put my jacket on her seat -- well, actually, to keep the seat from getting muddy because Bonnie had mud just about everywhere.</p><p>Back home, I helped get her clean and in fresh clothing for our ride to a hospital about seven miles away.</p><p> The orthopedic surgeon on duty assessed the injury, and told us, "I have good news, and bad news Which would you like first?"</p><p> "How about bad news," I suggested.</p><p> "This is one of the worst fractures I've seen. But the good news is that I can fix it."</p><p> I breathed a sigh of relief that proved only temporary. </p><p> "But I have more bad news," he continued. "First I have to break it again to get it into the right position."</p><p> Bonnie was given some joy juice -- an intravenous painkiller -- and I held her right hand as the doc gave a quick twist to her injured wrist. The cracking sound stays with me even now, nearly 30 years later.</p><p> While Bonnie was recovering from anesthesia after the ensuing surgery, I was dispatched about 3 a.m. to a nearby all-night pharmacy to fill her prescription for a pain med she would need at home.
The pharmacist looked at the prescription and asked, "Do you want the name brand or a generic?"</p><p> "What's the difference?" I asked.</p><p> "The generic is 10 dollars, and the name brand is 35."</p><p> Okay. I admit it. I was too cheap to pay for a Christmas tree. But now, I was overwhelmed by guilt. It's like the yin and yang of my Jewish upbringing. What to do?!!</p><p> "Give her the good stuff," I stammered.</p><p> So the upshot is I spent $50 for the emergency room co-pay, $35 for Percocet pills, and didn't even have a tree to show for it. </p><p> The next day, as Bonnie recuperated at home, I drove two miles up the road to Ace Hardware and found most of the Christmas trees had already been sold. But among those left in the store yard was the perfect tree for Bonnie. Not purely Charlie Brown. Just a nice, not-too-branchy tree. A store employee cut a few inches off the bottom so it would stay fresh resting in the water of our tree stand, and helped me tie it to the station wagon roof rack.</p><p> I was pretty pleased with myself, and after pulling onto our driveway went into the house and invited Lauren outside to see the wonderful tree I had bought for $10.
And looking it over, with more wisdom than any 14-year-old should possess, she stared straight at me and gave me the come-uppance I so cheaply deserved: "I told you so."</p><p><b><i><span style="font-size: medium;"> Epilogue </span></i></b></p><p> Bonnie continued over the years to demand a tree at Christmas, and I coped as well as I could. One year a local garden center was having its last-day going-out-of-business sale, and had a beautiful $500 artificial Christmas tree priced at 90 percent off. I told Bonnie.</p><p> She said no.</p><p> In 2019, my friend and former newspaper colleague Frank Roylance posted on Facebook that he and his wife were downsizing for a move into a condo and did anyone want their artificial Christmas tree -- free! And I jumped at it, begging Bonnie to relent. So off we went, to Frank's house north of the city, and together we managed to get the long and heavy box wedged into our hatchback car.</p><p> We stored it on a high shelf in our backyard shed, but in ensuing years the tree just lay in its long heavy cardboard box. We were not able to set it up for Christmas in 2019, as I had just battled a life-threatening ordeal with a MRSA infection and sepsis.</p><p> And in 2020, the pandemic turned our world upside-down. Bonnie late in the fall had surgery to remove her gallbladder, and there would be no Christmas fanfare. And in early January of 2021, as the first vaccines for Covid were rolling out, we learned that Bonnie had advanced and aggressive pancreatic cancer.</p><p> A few weeks later, Bonnie wrote about the uncertainty of how long she would survive -- hoping that she might be able to attend a nephew's wedding, or see another Christmas with our families. But it was not to be. Her life journey ended in March, 10 days before the arrival of spring. </p><p> And the tree lay in its box in the shed, until this week.</p><p> Inspired by a friend I have been dating in recent months, and her artificial but lovely tree I had helped assemble in her apartment (yeah, she is a Christian... just the way my life continues to play out... and seriously hard-wired for Christmas), I trudged back to my shed a few days ago and lugged that heavy box into my house. </p><p> Sunday night, I took it out -- it was in three pieces, the bottom and middle sections very heavy and the top relatively light. I cleared away from the living room half a dozen boxes of some of the too-much-stuff accumulated during four decades in suburbia, pieced the tree together in front of the bay front window, and plugged it in.</p><p> Miraculously, every little light bulb on the seven-and-a-half-foot-tall tree was illuminated.</p><p> On Monday morning, I climbed into the attic and went down to the basement to retrieve boxes of Christmas ornaments and decorations, including some that have outlived three marriages and half a century of moves, divorces and loss, and set to work.</p><p> I had never in my entire life trimmed a Christmas tree solo, and I spent hours at the task, sorting through ornaments that came with memories of mostly happy times and joys.</p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVYPjwEd11x1dq4k_AfS8aiME2Z65uQ_aPb0KVI52P-v7t12m9HH7KPE0wngupoWczRRAYBGUG3TDKyk9KVCWK20zGXiMtqAh5ef21kxrqp592dayvO3cOOwQ3s6uElKDPfzogQ2wklAYJ_SAmXYO1pTh2v9maL7WXi7bkYR9S3sN2vedW0jgVCIpR7M/s206/Christmas%20tree%202023%20Bonnie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="155" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVYPjwEd11x1dq4k_AfS8aiME2Z65uQ_aPb0KVI52P-v7t12m9HH7KPE0wngupoWczRRAYBGUG3TDKyk9KVCWK20zGXiMtqAh5ef21kxrqp592dayvO3cOOwQ3s6uElKDPfzogQ2wklAYJ_SAmXYO1pTh2v9maL7WXi7bkYR9S3sN2vedW0jgVCIpR7M/w150-h200/Christmas%20tree%202023%20Bonnie.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Bonnie's 1944 ornament</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> There were the sand dollars netted from the surf on Florida's Gulf coast by our kids in 1989, which they painted for that year's tree and endured for nearly 30 others over the course of our lives.
Some were so beautiful and evoked such wonderful memories that I was in tears.</p><p>There's even a dragon ornament, purchased at a science fiction convention years ago -- before Game of Thrones hatched three of them into pop culture.</p><p> The tree left only a few inches to spare below the ceiling, and was too tall for one tradition that had been a continuing bad joke: Deciding who gets to put the tree up the angel's butt. Well, that would be me this time. The angel was much too tall, so I set it on the windowsill next to an ornamental Buddha. Several smaller angels, in various sizes, found perches elsewhere on the tree.</p><p> When I was done, I turned off the lights in the house and plugged in the tree.</p><p> I was overwhelmed by its beauty</p><p> And I thought maybe I wasn't really alone, after all. </p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHzDbFSV7TesP7QjNx8Mr3-RZryB-mF4HQOQsSu-72lGUaHDSggkfbUjdssBA0zqk0Zf_fjSrmNHBc7V_Hzlkc7O7BX2ql0ZsYhxSaREpCDAc290CqzE0VyD1yRQN5tkmgoJdsSvKu7ln_CaQ4ycDfvZv90Hk4lO0hBAWVGD0VXSMY7egYDYMBdyw0y_Y/s206/Christmas%20tree%202023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="155" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHzDbFSV7TesP7QjNx8Mr3-RZryB-mF4HQOQsSu-72lGUaHDSggkfbUjdssBA0zqk0Zf_fjSrmNHBc7V_Hzlkc7O7BX2ql0ZsYhxSaREpCDAc290CqzE0VyD1yRQN5tkmgoJdsSvKu7ln_CaQ4ycDfvZv90Hk4lO0hBAWVGD0VXSMY7egYDYMBdyw0y_Y/w301-h400/Christmas%20tree%202023.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>My 2023 tree, in its glory<br /></b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnQI2vUzW3bPv2O5q1lhSMMyvp-tq14bEGGrPuA37SOSwePLmDftPN2tncIqZ3CYLuiRpsHCMc3wEQCavs0FRh5xVR2_wkX081iDbkU60tTlIH2MSdKu8tyFD7TeSwIlC4nOk6UKqxANw9msEowUJvO0nMl80LXUZ6nFbhnl3PomlQwBVcMTBWQpGIOU/s206/Christmas%20tree%202023%20dragon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="155" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnQI2vUzW3bPv2O5q1lhSMMyvp-tq14bEGGrPuA37SOSwePLmDftPN2tncIqZ3CYLuiRpsHCMc3wEQCavs0FRh5xVR2_wkX081iDbkU60tTlIH2MSdKu8tyFD7TeSwIlC4nOk6UKqxANw9msEowUJvO0nMl80LXUZ6nFbhnl3PomlQwBVcMTBWQpGIOU/s1600/Christmas%20tree%202023%20dragon.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Tree dragon</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N4wNikhR1T9Jb-C5x8-V-acvbNrgD1HYs95BPBBp8MF4-lWotbhmK7ccf7iQypLwHAcbBoIUDWRCmWgrfVR59dqt3tsPz8hlH8VOBvwtLQsCjRgNq-c-whqiIeC5b0cXRo0nCNvTG6f0ZPMQqKclyB9WktrDDEbzrb3hqDFrxIY5XY-N3jZtPKcifNg/s206/Christmas%20tree%202023%20ornaments.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="155" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N4wNikhR1T9Jb-C5x8-V-acvbNrgD1HYs95BPBBp8MF4-lWotbhmK7ccf7iQypLwHAcbBoIUDWRCmWgrfVR59dqt3tsPz8hlH8VOBvwtLQsCjRgNq-c-whqiIeC5b0cXRo0nCNvTG6f0ZPMQqKclyB9WktrDDEbzrb3hqDFrxIY5XY-N3jZtPKcifNg/s1600/Christmas%20tree%202023%20ornaments.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A closer look</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p>David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-35954691422998051072023-12-10T13:04:00.000-05:002023-12-10T13:04:37.122-05:00<p> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNsMadCmXHsZ1EbTpZdgKMs1YI9KduCBZyFcmlEdi3LjOwl_qlHW4ko18c9mMlv1gUzJFwJ28GNeFgS2Hd5360Y-RMFQ0p4HQD1sgLk1Y35AR05YeEZ3_kSxFhB8ltOnxoAP5kt-mw8NM0-l9jN89EHan5JFe24epJkeMvicvSePz90V70OePgbEJODg/s780/img038%20(4).jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="780" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNsMadCmXHsZ1EbTpZdgKMs1YI9KduCBZyFcmlEdi3LjOwl_qlHW4ko18c9mMlv1gUzJFwJ28GNeFgS2Hd5360Y-RMFQ0p4HQD1sgLk1Y35AR05YeEZ3_kSxFhB8ltOnxoAP5kt-mw8NM0-l9jN89EHan5JFe24epJkeMvicvSePz90V70OePgbEJODg/w400-h225/img038%20(4).jpg" width="400" /></a></i></div><i>Not a birth picture, but at least a birthday suit -- Bonnie Schupp poses
for her first portrait in early 1945. This picture graced the bunk of
her father Alvin on a U.S. Navy ship taking him to Italy near the end of
World War II.</i><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b> <i>Remembering Bonnie</i></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><i>on her birthday</i></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><i><br /></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> Today is Bonnie Schupp's 79th birthday. Or it would have been, had
pancreatic cancer not intervened nearly three years ago.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> In between our respective bouts
with life-threatening illness, we would talk on our occasional walks together about
how to celebrate turning 80. We fantasized a big, catered party,
inviting all of our friends and family. There would be performances by musician
friends, a chance for others to say a few words -- kind or, preferably, funny about
us and our relationships with them. It would be a celebration not only of our lives, but our friends
while we still were around to appreciate and thank them.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> (We also poked fun at ourselves. For years on her birthday, I'd joke about
how I'd never been to bed with anybody that old before.) <br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">We did have a party, just not in the way it was intended. She only reached the age of 76. But it was a celebration of her life -- which she wanted instead of a funeral -- as well as the friendships that enriched it. <br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">Age was not -- is not -- relevant. Especially not when it comes to
love. It grows and endures. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><i><b><span style="color: #ff00fe; font-size: large;"> Poetic perspective</span></b></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">A few days ago, taking steps to freshen Bonnie's Google account so that
the Overloads of Cyberspace would not erase her digital life, I stumbled onto
her first efforts in blogging from the early days of the 21st Century. The blog
was called "Blooming Journeys" -- its intent largely to post about the
world of education, from the viewpoint of a retired teacher. It was a
forerunner to her infinitely wider approach to blogging and creativity in an
online journal of sorts, which she renamed simply "Journeys."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">And one of those early "Blooming" entries was about being
born, and a poem written on the day it happened by her great aunt, Gleasie
Leatherbury.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> Here's what Bonnie posted: </p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Helvetica","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 12.0pt;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Note: My great Aunt Gleasie, before she died while in her
90's, gave me this poem she wrote on the day I was born, December 10, 1944.</span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 12.0pt;"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span></i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 2;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif";"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Fifteen
Days Before Christmas</span></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 2;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif";"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">"Twas fifteen days before
Christmas on a Sabbath morn, <br />
<br />
In the Norfolk General Hospital, a baby was born. <br />
<br />
There were other babies too--ones I've never seen <br />
<br />
But this one in particular is little Bonnie Jean. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
She was tucked in her basket with the greatest of care <br />
<br />
Without the slightest idea that Daddy was near. <br />
<br />
He was -- and Granddaddy too -- <br />
<br />
Awaiting news of a baby in blue. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Thirty hours he waited in great suspense, <br />
<br />
Till the doctors thought he'd have no sense. <br />
<br />
So he bit his nails and paced the floor, <br />
<br />
When suddenly a nurse appeared in the door. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Said she, "Mr. Schupp, your wife presents you with a fine baby girl."
<br />
<br />
But she realized his head was still in a whirl <br />
<br />
When he still imagined she had said a boy, <br />
<br />
because like a sailor, he simply shouted, "Ship ahoy!" <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now that all is over, and Mother and baby are doing well, <br />
<br />
Daddy feels much better too, as everyone could tell. <br />
<br />
He is not disappointed, and confidentially I think, <br />
<br />
He is perfectly satisfied with a little girl in pink. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br />
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</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM9XOLOLU2Q3s7yjij_3nfU_QD4uncclBjXRlZSC9Fej5pHxDyazoI2KKm2sIy9QSm1M_pP4CvyNKar-96hXAT1F-IITRxLT_2cZV8Ckdl_n55d4UjyLqCgDJvFzhFeEKrFYiGLuY3Q5fkE8EXdVCoGKMI4Qv2M7TOxlUsLNImVccMRjax5jVxvEAU2E/s2986/Bonnie%20hons%20window.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2362" data-original-width="2986" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM9XOLOLU2Q3s7yjij_3nfU_QD4uncclBjXRlZSC9Fej5pHxDyazoI2KKm2sIy9QSm1M_pP4CvyNKar-96hXAT1F-IITRxLT_2cZV8Ckdl_n55d4UjyLqCgDJvFzhFeEKrFYiGLuY3Q5fkE8EXdVCoGKMI4Qv2M7TOxlUsLNImVccMRjax5jVxvEAU2E/s320/Bonnie%20hons%20window.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie in 2009, posing with one of her photographs -- an image of "Baltimore Hons" that remains a visual landmark in the window of M&T Bank on 36th Street in the city's Hampden neighborhood.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p>
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<p><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p>David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-17317716939213895152023-04-25T13:30:00.000-04:002023-04-25T13:30:10.103-04:00<p><span style="font-size: small;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Pn4a4xf7OBUFYhJ7YdZrXae4Md-JnQbMKd00Y80j1mqxn2kfH23AoIAjPJO0sCRZ2B8RtwOV-WnsmWQmMkCrGQvVWH0o36ShhvgKzmu_hqRh7uP6z3Fagi7abmM9ynRknDDLL2LNNwld2pAv0aBTrzFXRyEii7x47MN-SPUBPjU5zN4uindMmLuJ/s800/david_ele_school.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="800" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Pn4a4xf7OBUFYhJ7YdZrXae4Md-JnQbMKd00Y80j1mqxn2kfH23AoIAjPJO0sCRZ2B8RtwOV-WnsmWQmMkCrGQvVWH0o36ShhvgKzmu_hqRh7uP6z3Fagi7abmM9ynRknDDLL2LNNwld2pAv0aBTrzFXRyEii7x47MN-SPUBPjU5zN4uindMmLuJ/w400-h249/david_ele_school.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then: At a guess, fourth grade at School No. 59. Me, upper right.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></p><p><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">Memory Lane </span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Pupils of School No. 59</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">have a 'final' hoorah</span></b></p><p><i><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Louisa May Alcott closed 50 years ago</span></b></i></p><p><i><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></i></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">The hallways and classrooms emptied of children half a century ago, but memories of Baltimore's Louisa May Alcott School No. 59 were alive and mostly well on Sunday as about 100 of its pupils gathered at a suburban synagogue for what was billed as their "second final reunion."</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVAZGmKgehdd1024naTsIIreGTMGvGKj2eOJoYObr7KfYdYz4LOLfUyJg2BKKdVyMkdkb3DjC7BhW66ZMfLYIYEMs5tG6cXYSVGOI5yGdWSHaobkzs6_ruV81S5TLa5DzKN0XySNnycHMjjqUmj3-0hrMJKoWVkP_fBmTdlNH85R7NHrihMngmG8Y/s8256/ALCOTT1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="8256" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVAZGmKgehdd1024naTsIIreGTMGvGKj2eOJoYObr7KfYdYz4LOLfUyJg2BKKdVyMkdkb3DjC7BhW66ZMfLYIYEMs5tG6cXYSVGOI5yGdWSHaobkzs6_ruV81S5TLa5DzKN0XySNnycHMjjqUmj3-0hrMJKoWVkP_fBmTdlNH85R7NHrihMngmG8Y/w200-h133/ALCOTT1.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> A few of them hobbled from the infirmities of aging -- and the oldest among them, Sylvia Cohn, at 98, had more difficulty with short-term memory than in recalling the lower Park Heights neighborhood of her childhood. She told of picking cherries from a tree behind the old Pratt Library branch half a block from the school on Keyworth Avenue.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">Their school -- our school -- was shut down in 1972, viewed by the city as substandard, lacking a cafeteria and air-conditioning, but remains a landmark. Used for a time for regional offices and as a warehouse, then vacant for a decade, the oversize three-story brick and stucco building dating to 1910 nonetheless was added to the National Register of Historic Places in recognition of its architecture.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">And for the last two decades, the restored building -- now known as Alcott Place -- has been lovingly maintained as subsidized housing for elderly residents. The principal's office is gone, replaced by an elevator shaft, and each classroom was turned into an efficiency apartment. A fourth level was added in a huge former attic space and turned into an activity and computer center with its own elevator from the third floor. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> The school had a core group of teachers who lasted there long enough to have instructed multiple generations of the same families.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> Six years ago, days after his 94th birthday, I had the pleasure of taking the well-known Baltimore writer and storyteller Gilbert Sandler on a tour of our old neighborhood, and School 59, which we had attended 24 years apart. We both had "Miss Esther" Freilachoff in first grade. And we were given a tour of the building by a gentleman who lived there -- and showed us his apartment, in what had been my sixth-grade classroom.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtE7QqQ5AwhPYlP2iDgqCM3HmQgayJAE75r2ijEuij_ulJv0-XejXwZ7I06EBEuB8gxOowMBE6IyguQm9H6biGZw9bR2h9XJZ6efJhvHLbkA-UsgI90iDPTnL1EmBbEPrAmrCEB4HiUgLnVy87MRHdnVAQ1OisQ6QGphSTqlEXZdfl2cHA5EHqhu9/s8256/ALCOTT2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="8256" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtE7QqQ5AwhPYlP2iDgqCM3HmQgayJAE75r2ijEuij_ulJv0-XejXwZ7I06EBEuB8gxOowMBE6IyguQm9H6biGZw9bR2h9XJZ6efJhvHLbkA-UsgI90iDPTnL1EmBbEPrAmrCEB4HiUgLnVy87MRHdnVAQ1OisQ6QGphSTqlEXZdfl2cHA5EHqhu9/w200-h133/ALCOTT2.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In hallway on 2019 visit</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> I attended the school from 1951 to June 1957, at the enrollment start of the postwar "baby boomer" era, from a neighborhood that was entirely white and largely Jewish. The reunion had demographics to match.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> The first black pupil at Louisa May Alcott arrived in September of 1957, three years after the Supreme Court's Brown v. Board of Education decision ostensibly ending racial segregation of public schools. That year was also the beginning of a decade of rapid racial change that swept northwesterly along the Park Heights Avenue-Reisterstown Road corridor, with "blockbusting" tactics by real estate speculators scaring white homeowners to sell at distress prices and fueling much of the "white flight" toward the suburbs of Pikesville, Randallstown and Owings Mills. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">Interestingly, the reunion program book listed relatively recent housing sale prices, street by street, in some cases noting names of the School 59 children who had formerly lived in them -- a range from around $22,000 to a few exceeding $300,000. Conditions along neighborhood streets range from third-worldly horror to decent and improving.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ozgTy4_kcLBEeMjtvmkJwSeQZKk3n4PqsQC_783B32z3MsnLDrEhl0bXNJydTq930B7JX7KUNiJn6Ivg4FQtZfIjZP9TRU1GvOq4RQ-NGOgOIJp8i07VxK0CwckQr3-9T586gPESWmKc2o0OO8MEc2n13_MpSr6Osmjau0kAoahFypK0M5mDYMPd/s8256/TOWANDA%20AVE2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5504" data-original-width="8256" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ozgTy4_kcLBEeMjtvmkJwSeQZKk3n4PqsQC_783B32z3MsnLDrEhl0bXNJydTq930B7JX7KUNiJn6Ivg4FQtZfIjZP9TRU1GvOq4RQ-NGOgOIJp8i07VxK0CwckQr3-9T586gPESWmKc2o0OO8MEc2n13_MpSr6Osmjau0kAoahFypK0M5mDYMPd/w200-h133/TOWANDA%20AVE2.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On Towanda Avenue, row house ruin a few blocks from School 59.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> My own street of 1940s-vintage row homes has held up well.
(Taking a recent visitor on a tour of Baltimore, we encountered a woman unloading groceries outside her row house across Royce Avenue from the one where I had been raised. She told us she had moved from D.C. in buying it last year, that the former owner had died and it had been beautifully restored for sale. According to our program book, the price was $202,000.)</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> The first School 59 reunion was held in 1993, attended by more than 800 former students -- a sell-out event from which more than 200 others were turned away because of space limitations at the catering hall. Sunday's gathering was the seventh -- and billed as the "second final reunion."</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> Attendance at the previous gathering in 2017 had dropped to 151, according to Bob Cohen, a reunion committee member and master of ceremonies. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> Only a few of those attending on Sunday live in the old neighborhood's 21215 Zip Code -- known postally as "Zone 15" back in the day. Most now have suburban addresses. But some came from long distances -- as far away as California, Arizona, Colorado, Texas and, of course, Florida. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> Bob wrote in the program book that this final reunion was planned by "new blood" -- a committee of those "younger than 80." And most likely, it was the final final. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDNU79C48YQNAsj0xINErmqulI8d_z3p3Ur-dG6S2pf8Z7hoV2tAUNaIeaIBw2AJ8FIxQhi2Lq2ZqKh9MdXAUIa_m0mA7bFMThQfVHzHdPtqFvnQS7hG4ptF4XtBjtZDEW2e6D_X1t6kuQnVd2ZZWQoWDHfzGzqO3dqanjtZ8J52CL3llH6kVXj1M0/s4032/IMG_3100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDNU79C48YQNAsj0xINErmqulI8d_z3p3Ur-dG6S2pf8Z7hoV2tAUNaIeaIBw2AJ8FIxQhi2Lq2ZqKh9MdXAUIa_m0mA7bFMThQfVHzHdPtqFvnQS7hG4ptF4XtBjtZDEW2e6D_X1t6kuQnVd2ZZWQoWDHfzGzqO3dqanjtZ8J52CL3llH6kVXj1M0/w300-h400/IMG_3100.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And now, the final reunion: Hard to believe we were all once very young, at School 59.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></p>David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-69927740182939379052023-04-02T00:26:00.000-04:002023-04-02T00:34:26.555-04:00<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNArxR9T3d_OgtdH-com7BJqjQYKc4YwUqPUe4mWdJ0yQczMw9Z7hGTDsU2yjpcXV0lMqw60HnflLZ467lbC_wJuTzlNFKKaJbu0W9PfBrpLP-SH0wW0IBkfjvZctCUnCJvzjvcuenMCwUU_X1CT9OUP8tZ9TeQai3jHETdbDNpt6y-Pv2cLBkcBU-/s1356/img20230401_12130956%20(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1356" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNArxR9T3d_OgtdH-com7BJqjQYKc4YwUqPUe4mWdJ0yQczMw9Z7hGTDsU2yjpcXV0lMqw60HnflLZ467lbC_wJuTzlNFKKaJbu0W9PfBrpLP-SH0wW0IBkfjvZctCUnCJvzjvcuenMCwUU_X1CT9OUP8tZ9TeQai3jHETdbDNpt6y-Pv2cLBkcBU-/s320/img20230401_12130956%20(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From my 1965 yearbook, the newspaper staff at the College Crier shows me (top left) and Chuck Milland (bottom right).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Remembering a friend</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>who tried to be a good cop</b></span></p><p><i><span style="font-size: medium;">From 43 years ago: A night on duty together</span></i></p><p><i><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></i></p><p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"At nearly 4 in the morning," my story began,
"the whisper of the downtown streets is broken by an alert on the police
radio: '10-31 rape in progress, Mount Royal and Cathedral, 10-31.'</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"Lt. Charles Ford Milland glances at the only civilian
car on Calvert Street and hammers the gas pedal. The blue dome light reflects
off building walls as the Central District cruiser roars with the surge of
power.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"Braking at each corner, the lieutenant checks for
oncoming traffic and hammers the pedal again. Two minutes at speeds of up to 50
mph to Mount Royal, and the radio blares again: 'Suspect running west toward
Mount Royal.' "</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">The crime, an ensuing foot chase, and the arrest of the
suspected rapist by a couple of patrol officers were highlights of a routine
overnight shift for Milland -- and my ride-along for this story that ran on the
Metro section front page of the <i>Baltimore Sun</i> on June 22, 1980. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Milland called me later that day, and his funny reaction to
my story has been frozen in my memory for nearly 43 years: "Geez, Dave,
now they'll never let me have a new patrol car."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Saturday morning, a mutual friend called to let me know that
Chuck Milland had died after a year of declining health, including respiratory
difficulty.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Chuck and I had been friends since the early 1960s -- first
as students at Pimlico Junior High School, then at Baltimore Junior College
where, oddly enough, he became my first editor when I joined the features staff
of the <i>College Crier</i> newspaper. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Our lives diverged sharply in the ensuing years, as I<span> </span>lucked into a career at the newspaper and
Chuck, after briefly teaching at an eastside elementary school, joined the city
police force in 1970 and a decade later added a law degree to his resume. But
he was also a good writer, and attained some notoriety for an essay published
in <i>Gallery </i>magazine (a <i>Playboy</i> imitator) titled, "Why Cops
Hate You."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">The essay came to the attention of a popular Baltimore radio
talk show personality, the late Allan Prell, who invited Chuck to talk about it
on his "Lunch With Uncle Allie" show. Chuck pointed out that the
article was intended to explain what many cops on the street think, and why
they get annoyed with the public. It was not a reflection of police department
policy or his own view, he said -- but top police officials were not amused.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">For a time, Chuck was moved from his shift commander role in
the Central District covering downtown Baltimore to the communications division
overseeing dispatchers at police headquarters. Eventually, though, he was back
on the street as a shift commander in the Northern District.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">In junior high, we were casual friends and classmates, and
it was just by chance and curiosity that I walked into the college newspaper
office and found him back in my life... my first editor. On the rare occasions
when our paths crossed at the nexus of reporter and cop, we would smile at our newspaper
link. And it helped explain why Chuck was helpful to reporters at crime scenes
or occasionally as an unnamed source for information -- at least with reporters
he came to trust.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">His police career came crashing down in 1998 after a couple
of domestic disputes with his girlfriend -- a former addict he was trying to
keep off drugs -- resulted in his arrest. His girlfriend had called police, and
Chuck fled for several days before surrendering on a domestic assault charge. But
soon after his arrest, she retracted her complaint that he had hit her and said
she was too drunk to remember what had happened.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">The case nonetheless drew the ire of the police chief, and
his days with a badge came to a sad ending. <span> </span>But at least he had a backup career as a
lawyer.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"I love this job," Chuck told me during our night together
in 1980. "I had more fun being a patrolman. I don't have as much fun
now," he added, referring to the paperwork that came with the brass
lieutenant's badge, "but the fun is more intense."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">That night remains my best memory of Chuck Milland, him walking
through the bars and back rooms of strip clubs on "The Block" -- the
downtown adult entertainment section -- to assure a semblance of order in the
minutes before the 2 a.m. closing time that sends "revelers, drunks,
prostitutes, and even an assortment of just-nice-folks onto the sidewalks."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"He walks along East Baltimore Street," I wrote,
"checking on the welfare of women in a massage parlor where, he
acknowledges, something else obviously goes on in the back rooms. 'Sure they're
whores,' he says, 'but whores get robbed, too.'</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"On the street, the lieutenant offers to meet one of
the Block 'girls' at the station to talk about her problems. She had been there
the night before, drugged or intoxicated, claiming there was a 'contract out'
on her life.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"Around the corner, at Fayette Street and Guilford
Avenue, the first action of the night begins with the arrest of a female
impersonator known as 'Bubba.'</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"Lieutenant Milland assigned a special detail to arrest
a few of the growing number of female impersonators soliciting for
prostitution, to give them something to worry about. The charge is loitering
for the purpose of prostitution.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"Bubba, 6 feet tall, about 190 pounds with legs like a
linebacker, has been waving one of them at passing traffic through a slinky
black dress slit to the thigh. He, or she, is the first of three to be locked
up for the night."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">The night continues with Chuck checking on staffing at
assigned spots -- businesses where trash cans have been thrown through store
windows, a clothing store that had been an occasional smash-and-grab
target,<span> </span>the lone patrolman watching over
a bustling construction site for the future Charles Center subway station.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"On the district's western fringes, the cruiser
crunches through a coal-black alley paved in broken bottles. A giant pile of debris
and garbage narrows the passageway, and an overfed cat ignores a few scampering
rats and the approaching police vehicle.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"A little past 4, on North Avenue, a disco closes for
the night and the scene on The Block is repeated. Lieutenant Milland parks the
cruiser and watches an old wino waving his arms like a bird and staggering on
the sidewalk.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">" 'He's going to get mugged,' the lieutenant says."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">My story came a few days before the firing of a white city
police detective named Stephen McCown for his shooting of a black 17-year-old he
thought was holding and about to rob a pizza shop. The young victim, Ja-Wan
McGee, who had been holding a cigarette lighter, was left paralyzed from his
wounds.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">The view from inside the Central District police station, I
wrote, was that the police commissioner was bowing to racial pressure and
firing a good cop. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">But it was hardly the first and or last such incident in
Baltimore, or nationally -- and only in recent years, particularly with the proliferation
of security and cell phone cameras, has the violent intersection of race and
police brutality or mistakes come into clear focus.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Chuck Milland was always on the side of his cops, and
outspoken -- such as suggesting publicly that the Constitution be suspended for
30 days, giving police free rein to address growing urban crime.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">At the station roll call that began our night, Milland
discussed policing with his shift of officers. "The silent majority out
there have a lot of respect for you guys," he said. "You don't run
into it because of the nature if the people you deal with."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">He added that 'it takes just a fraction of a second to be
blown away," while worrying about whether to draw a gun and fire it.
"There's an old saying, 'Better to be judged by one than carried by six.'
"</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">"You got to use good sense and act in good faith.
That's really all I have to say."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">With Chuck Milland's death at our mutual age of 77, I am
left wondering about how his life and world view would have turned out had he,
like me, gone into journalism -- or after his first decade in uniform tried his
hand at fiction to voice his views on policing. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Considering the roads not taken can be maddening.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p></p>David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-89196974388460822662022-04-07T22:34:00.000-04:002022-04-07T22:34:26.093-04:00<p> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</p><h1 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Play Ball! </b></span></h1>
<h3 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i>The field of dreams was soaking wet,</i></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><i>
</i></h3><h3 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i>but players were readying for action</i></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><i>
</i></h3><h3 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i>on eve of (minor league) season opener</i></h3>
<p class="MsoNormal">It's drizzling, the temperature around 52 degrees, much like
an early spring day in England. But it was less than ideal for baseball here in
the suburban Maryland town of Bowie, where a dozen so players are tossing
around balls and loosing up muscles in late afternoon on the eve of Opening
Day.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The infield is covered by puddles atop a protective tarp, and
the outfield grass between center and right fields is wet under the cleats
before the session is cut short by a downpour. There's thunder in the distance.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQQVw9pZQDJ6cpLa72pEQ9pHQWn3O84SISXu75DQOjoms1qQYcjDHkKxNi85vSf8HFUpn633o1xH39Bvpe4x0JCK0ZdxVvbgKXTMYbTgbxu2pAX_t5oXr92Gcy7n7l39HTdd1dCQcrHXxFBJJ9hilazBc1pKKaRo67_36eR5if7c8akqYjbm_EELT/s1000/Baysox%201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQQVw9pZQDJ6cpLa72pEQ9pHQWn3O84SISXu75DQOjoms1qQYcjDHkKxNi85vSf8HFUpn633o1xH39Bvpe4x0JCK0ZdxVvbgKXTMYbTgbxu2pAX_t5oXr92Gcy7n7l39HTdd1dCQcrHXxFBJJ9hilazBc1pKKaRo67_36eR5if7c8akqYjbm_EELT/s320/Baysox%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Getting loose despite the rain<br /></b></td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This scene is the backdrop for "Media Day" at
Prince George's Stadium, halfway between Washington and Baltimore and home to
the Double-A Bowie Baysox. Just a couple of writers and a popular Baltimore radio
sports and talk show host turn out for quick interviews in advance of the
season opener -- and many of the games here are also sparsely attended.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">But it's a great place to watch a game, intimate in size
with maybe a tenth of the seats common to Major League ballparks. Ticket and
food prices are cheaper -- there's even dollar hotdog nights, and games when
fans can bring their own dogs (the kind that wag tails, that is). And a
carousel diversion for children is ready near the cheap seats near deep right
field.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Quaint it may feel, but there's serious business at hand for
the young players for whom Double-A baseball is something of crossroads for
Major League dreams -- most of which begin to die here.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The baseball mother ship is Oriole Park, just 26.6 miles to
the north, but only a few of the Baysox players will ever reach it wearing
uniforms. There's another rung on the advancement ladder of baseball, Triple-A,
but the Baltimore Orioles affiliate is further away in Norfolk, Va. In an
emergency, it could take just one phone call and a half-hour drive to fulfill
the dream -- even if only briefly.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For the 80-minute Media Day session, held under an
open-sided tent along the right field concourse, the first banter is with the
team's new manager, Kyle Moore, who has been part of the Orioles organization
for 13 years as a player, coach and manager for its minor league affiliates,
working his way up. Last year, he managed the High-A Aberdeen Ironbirds, north
of Baltimore. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">A catcher and outfielder in his playing days, Moore looks
younger than his age (36) and has more the look of a rangy middle infielder.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Asked what marching orders he gave to the team, Moore
offered that they have to hustle running the baselines and keep the dugout
tidy. He acknowledged the overriding mission is player development, but added that
he also would like to win every game.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Among the players who took turns fielding media questions
were the team's three shortstops -- Joey Ortiz, Jordan Westburg and Gunnar
Henderson -- who manager Moore said he expects to play at least two games each
week at that position, and handle others or fill the role of designated hitter
in other games. (In my fantasy league team, I found myself with three
shortstops in one year's player draft outcome -- and got rid of two of them
early in the season for the sake of position diversity)</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh46NNaCEGj-mFsbXj4jB6-plc0CLIuHh-Jx7snuXVT1Zjko64vhFg4QErbe0aHAF4hCBii5xMp7saZN45TrzWYGNY3-jJlnJwGt_3eKj_5EN0dfd5vTqdvX-8iBw8WkS9ekQJ5zWN6cnVMr010FdrOapzu0w7tEj4DJOPNT_hwpQKkFcTAVhuLc701/s1000/baysox%202%20gunnar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh46NNaCEGj-mFsbXj4jB6-plc0CLIuHh-Jx7snuXVT1Zjko64vhFg4QErbe0aHAF4hCBii5xMp7saZN45TrzWYGNY3-jJlnJwGt_3eKj_5EN0dfd5vTqdvX-8iBw8WkS9ekQJ5zWN6cnVMr010FdrOapzu0w7tEj4DJOPNT_hwpQKkFcTAVhuLc701/s320/baysox%202%20gunnar.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Gunnar Henderson fields questions<br /></b></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Two of the Baysox shortstops, Henderson and Westburg, are
among the minor league players for whom the Orioles have highest hopes this
year. Even their names have a baseball ring to them, especially Gunnar, a top
hitter who is relatively unusual in having been drafted straight out of high
school by the Orioles rather than playing college ball. The reported $2.3
million signing bonus he received might have been a factor in making the early
jump into professional baseball.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Physically, among the players taking turns fielding
questions, Gunnar Henderson appeared to be the biggest in physique -- and has a
great smile and movie star looks. Last year, he advanced through the system in
playing for three teams including the Baysox. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Among the few revelations, and the most entertaining during
the 80-minute media event, was Henderson saying he's been working on his batting
swing using a pitching machine that lobs foam baseballs.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We'll see how that worked out beginning Friday evening,
April 8, as the Baysox open their 138-game season against the Richmond Flying
Squirrels. The forecast: Dry, a tad chilly, and dreams aplenty.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></p>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-63897256273582002532022-03-11T21:13:00.001-05:002022-03-11T21:13:58.796-05:00<p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhMkhH7p1u5uDejCH0Et3elnt2MLIcKjORFLEAN7QmHlCEX6rBkg-hTSvg7IkZXvq1_oeYrpni0gU4CUAPYVdqBFioe3FbKA4PtrAxuvK0uIL-sQGE56Kbp5xBfInI-r83f_cZc5T7SVbWehW3E75eRHqFgdbuPUb0n3-dm_6yTpXHdAKBAm8KHM3g8=s2080" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="2080" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhMkhH7p1u5uDejCH0Et3elnt2MLIcKjORFLEAN7QmHlCEX6rBkg-hTSvg7IkZXvq1_oeYrpni0gU4CUAPYVdqBFioe3FbKA4PtrAxuvK0uIL-sQGE56Kbp5xBfInI-r83f_cZc5T7SVbWehW3E75eRHqFgdbuPUb0n3-dm_6yTpXHdAKBAm8KHM3g8=w640-h338" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><i><b>Bonnie, in her later years of teaching, at George Fox Middle School<br /></b></i></td></tr></tbody></table></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><br />Bonnie the teacher </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>surfaces in 'stuff' </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>stored in the attic </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><i>There are lessons worth learning</i></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><i> on how to be a caring educator </i></span></p><p> </p><p>Today marks a sad milepost in my relationship with grief -- a year since the journey ended for my best friend, my wife, the great love of my life.</p><p> I don't like the words 'death' and 'died,' and try not to use them. I had never thought about that before last March 11. So I say that her journey ended. It seems more graceful, more beautiful. </p><p>Bonnie Schupp and I had known each other for 53 years, having met as neighbors a floor apart in Baltimore rowhouse apartments late in 1967 and come together in 1979, through a decade-long chain of circumstance, in the wake of other marriages.</p><p>Look back from where you are, contemplate events and decisions beginning early in life, and find the crossroads where you turned toward the now. The "what-ifs" of roads not taken may seem scary in retrospect, if the turn chosen brought you to love.</p><p>I wish I could find Victor Jackson to thank for our "event." He was 16 then, a Baltimore high school dropout living in the city's hardest-hit neighborhood of the rioting that followed the 1968 murder of Martin Luther King, Jr., and working for a wallpaper company to help support his single mom and family. A man he did not know was having a heart attack on the street, and Victor tried to save him -- getting the man back into his car and, despite lacking a driver's license or know-how, driving him to nearby Johns Hopkins Hospital.</p><p>Victor stayed around, sat with the man's wife and, though he did not survive, kept in touch with her. His acts of caring were somehow brought to the attention of the <i>Baltimore Sun</i>, where I was a newly-minted reporter and an editor handed me the information to gin up a little human interest story. And it, in turn, resulted in a call from an editor at <i>Scholastic Scope</i> magazine asking if I could write a version for that publication. </p><p>Oh, and a photo of Victor was also needed. I could have asked a <i>Sun</i> photographer -- after all, there was a $50 payment offered for the service... a large chunk of change by the measure of the late 1960s. But I had a better idea: Bonnie was teaching in a city junior high school, where the magazine was doubtless used in classrooms, and her then-hobby was photography. A perfect match! </p><p>The story was published in the edition of April 11, 1969 -- our first collaboration.</p><p>But there was more to Bonnie's story that I didn't learn until recently, sorting through our version of the unbelievable amount of "stuff" that people accumulate over the course of a lifetime (and that their kids likely don't or won't want). In the year since she left us, I had barely touched the surface of that problem, getting rid of "stuff."</p><p>A month ago, I started with picking what I assumed would be low-hanging fruit -- from a plastic bin among the many boxes of stuff in our attic. It was labeled "teaching." Surely an easy target destined for the dump. And then I started going through it.
Bonnie had saved material from her teaching career going back half a century, keepsakes that had meaning to her -- including remembrances relating to her students and their work under her tutelage. </p><p>What surprised me most were the letters to Bonnie in 1969 and 1970 from Katherine Robinson, editor of <i>Scholastic Scope</i>, expressing thanks for various articles and poems written by some of her students at Benjamin Franklin Junior High that were going to be published in the magazine in coming months.
Bonnie had used her connection from the photograph of Victor Jackson to open a door of possibilities for her students. </p><p>The first letter is dated Nov. 19, 1969, thanking her for a story and photos by 14-year-old Reginald Carpenter about community teenagers working with a Japanese teacher visiting Baltimore as a Volunteer to America, to turn a side-street dump into a garden.</p><p> "You are an admirable teacher," the editor wrote. "I remember your submitting a poem by one of your students (which I regret we couldn't publish because we simply don't have the space) and your taking pictures of the young man from Baltimore who went out of his way to help a dying man. I'm glad to see you are now Photography Club Sponsor as well as an English teacher. Our schools need more teachers like you who are involved and getting through to their students."</p><p>Next up was Delbert Williams, and the heart of this blog post.</p><p>In the 1969-1970 school year, Bonnie oversaw a group of her ninth-grade students for a literature unit project making a short film titled "Decisions," about everyday problems that arise and how kids deal with them. "You find a wallet, for example. Do you try to return it?" the <i>Scope</i> article by Delbert reads. "Someone makes you angry. Do you start a fight? The movie asks you to make decisions like these."<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgmt7eCd6EVvNoZEtM7xl6jF9kHs-vCfCt-QYKmsFDMVxqM0iiKGBtDbyNGRoyQqdr4ucgXClntlwOut74aAteu12jydy_0pEBAizkJAsfxkzWt8WMGkh17hy9CJ_FyzJ9TmNaJHiRbxrbcoxbHt7DuQemCGaTRqrTx5UWwbUQJgEngMmG7ywtCBk3B=s3300" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3300" data-original-width="2550" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgmt7eCd6EVvNoZEtM7xl6jF9kHs-vCfCt-QYKmsFDMVxqM0iiKGBtDbyNGRoyQqdr4ucgXClntlwOut74aAteu12jydy_0pEBAizkJAsfxkzWt8WMGkh17hy9CJ_FyzJ9TmNaJHiRbxrbcoxbHt7DuQemCGaTRqrTx5UWwbUQJgEngMmG7ywtCBk3B=s320" width="247" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Delbert's story in Scope </i></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p>It was not easy to make a movie in a Baltimore public school in those days, not like in our era of cell phone technology. Equipment had to be reserved and borrowed from the school administration headquarters.</p><p>"Some students wrote the script. Others were actors, directors, or cameramen. The project took a lot of planning and work," Delbert wrote. "But after seeing the film, the class was pleased. And work didn't seem like work, after all." </p><p>The article was accompanied by four photos -- one by Bonnie Caples (her married name in those days) of young Delbert looking through a camera viewfinder, the others by Delbert of the filmmakers and the work, including one of Bonnie demonstrating for them how to adjust the movie camera on its tripod.</p><p>"You've done it again," editor Robinson wrote to Bonnie in a letter dated March 18, 1970. "Delbert Williams' photos (and your photo of him), plus his description of the "Decisions" film will appear in SCOPE, April 13.... I've notified our accounting department to send you a check for your photo of Delbert and one to Delbert in your care. We hope you enjoy the article when it appears. We appreciate very much your submitting it, and we admire Delbert's skill in story writing.</p><p>"Meanwhile, thanks again for your interest in SCOPE and in your students. Clearly, you are doing magical things with kids at Benjamin Franklin Jr. High."</p><p>There was one other letter from Robinson, dated July 8, 1970, thanking Bonnie for sending in more student work, "especially some of the poems and the definitions of love, life, pain, embarrassment, etc. We also liked and admired the original song by Joe Schelhouse and Lorraine Soustek." </p><p>And then, it continued, came this:
"We are very sorry to hear that Delbert Williams died. It came as a shock really. His article and photographs were so full of life -- not at all fraught with the knowledge of impending death. We are grateful that you encouraged him to submit his work to SCOPE."</p><p>I was stunned -- and in tears. I hadn't made the connection about Delbert being one of two black students of Bonnie's who had died back then, one by drowning and the other from sickle cell disease.
I could find no story through online searches on Delbert's death, but I found a mention of him in an obituary of his mother, Ella W. Campbell, a community activist and retired Baltimore educator, published six years ago. It included among her survivors a sister, also a retired teacher, whose phone number turned up quickly in another search -- and I called her.</p><p>She was, to say the least, a tad surprised... maybe even suspicious... at my call asking about a nephew who had died nearly 52 years ago. So she asked a few questions about who was my wife, and about the <i>Scope</i> article -- but she happened to have a copy of it, and quickly found it to verify my credibility.</p><p>Delbert had died of sickle cell disease. And, as I subsequently learned, his only sibling, a sister who taught kindergarten, had also died of the genetic disease -- at age 45 -- two years before their mother's passing. </p><p>Half a century through time, there's not much evidence of Delbert Andre Williams outside of family connections. But there's a magazine with his story and his picture in its yellowing pages, because he had a teacher who not only encouraged his accomplishments in school but for all the years since had kept the magazine page and those letters from the editor.</p><p>Bonnie was in her third year of teaching when she worked with Delbert. She burned out from teaching in the city four years later, and went into business with a friend/partner as owners of a camera story in suburban Severna Park. She subsequently wrote a column geared largely to amateur photography that appeared in the old Baltimore <i>Evening Sun</i> and newspapers in South Bend, Ind., and Prescott, Ariz., raised our two daughters, and went back to teaching in our Anne Arundel County for another 15 years.</p><p>The plastic bin from the attic, and a thick folder in one of Bonnie's very full file cabinets, had a lot more material from her second round of teaching. I am hoping for a call back from the English department head at her last school, about perhaps taking a stack of classroom guide books that would doubtless make life easier for a young language arts teacher -- but first-come can have them all.</p><p>This morning, I read through another find from the file cabinet -- a 55-page ethnographic study on underlying reasons for a teacher shortage that she wrote in 2001 for a class at the University Baltimore in working toward a doctorate in communications design. (She was awarded the degree at age 60, two years after retiring as a teacher, and subsequently focused on photography and writing.)<br /></p><p>One thing obvious to me, from all the evidence packed into the attic and file cabinet, is that Bonnie as a teacher cared deeply about her students. And given all the challenges that teachers face, as covered in her university paper, that's not easy.</p><p>I was deeply touched when, on learning a year ago of Bonnie's journey ending, some of her former students cried.
No doubt that I will, again, as I try to get rid of stuff. That's not easy, either. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhAaorzwUe3PCNm7svx7vYbPEEwc0vXDIhjg3zcsDvncAVtHPBK16vsr0oWhbiTs-Lvt8MYifhV1MtEY9ec3jvs2eQT8a3k8GiZl_svJQdEIG8NC3AB_7TSDZ7m6DGJq1B8POv905HoSOH4kNogG4b0jxjT480nFRqigtlOIaLOEg4gxTaRW2s84ZQR=s1612" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1082" data-original-width="1612" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhAaorzwUe3PCNm7svx7vYbPEEwc0vXDIhjg3zcsDvncAVtHPBK16vsr0oWhbiTs-Lvt8MYifhV1MtEY9ec3jvs2eQT8a3k8GiZl_svJQdEIG8NC3AB_7TSDZ7m6DGJq1B8POv905HoSOH4kNogG4b0jxjT480nFRqigtlOIaLOEg4gxTaRW2s84ZQR=w400-h269" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Bonnie, in a gag classroom photo: Teaching is not always easy.<br /></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><b><i><br /></i></b><p><b><i><br /> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b> <br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhvSF71-tF-2oh8NZmBhBR1xD_Ak1BjkL7w2RHAa2_dfMqBR9rjv1CxEYA7Cgv-G0KEqv0dQspeRYpbMAUP9Po4OEIQhzrwYRM3jxALtQULIL4HQpPZ7E5xI22w9YnXu3qRcgBznltmGHnGBdFIWr_CDDqXoesbjtGQw2fb8JqyIvQtRbJp5S6sPEvH=s1543" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1056" data-original-width="1543" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhvSF71-tF-2oh8NZmBhBR1xD_Ak1BjkL7w2RHAa2_dfMqBR9rjv1CxEYA7Cgv-G0KEqv0dQspeRYpbMAUP9Po4OEIQhzrwYRM3jxALtQULIL4HQpPZ7E5xI22w9YnXu3qRcgBznltmGHnGBdFIWr_CDDqXoesbjtGQw2fb8JqyIvQtRbJp5S6sPEvH=w400-h274" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>... and bringing a literature unit to life, when it is.<br /></b></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /> </p>David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-38231201450575775262021-06-10T20:08:00.004-04:002021-06-10T20:19:20.090-04:00<p><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></p><p><span style="background-color: #ffa400;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><i> Roadside commemoration</i></span></b></span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Families, union leaders assemble</b></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lAvR5nwboLYwt3Dak1FYQeFLpGXKqrl36Rfm5CZpD2IUpSBkJ8ZGrxvdM7et3VN8xs_94WyTMMXFUEVzCyhguwxwBWPDF0-SgPcegiCBvV3MP6dNLRCThZYk3LpeEkeGvuyrbnaPtFQ/s2048/IMG_0361%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lAvR5nwboLYwt3Dak1FYQeFLpGXKqrl36Rfm5CZpD2IUpSBkJ8ZGrxvdM7et3VN8xs_94WyTMMXFUEVzCyhguwxwBWPDF0-SgPcegiCBvV3MP6dNLRCThZYk3LpeEkeGvuyrbnaPtFQ/w640-h480/IMG_0361%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">Tom Holler unveils historical marker along Route 135.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i> </i></span>Mountain Lake Park, Md. -- Time is unrelenting. The past
fades from memory. But not this week, in the remote and mountainous western
corner of Maryland, where a crowd of more than 100 gathered by a rural roadside to commemorate the longest strike by public employees in United States
history.
</p><p class="MsoNormal">Culminating a years-long effort spearheaded by retired
steelworker and union activist Len Shindel, the ceremony featured brief
remarks by labor leaders and even a couple of local politicians before the
unveiling of a highway sign along Route 135 remembering the seven-month strike
by the Garrett County highway workers who repaired the roads, built the bridges
and, perhaps most important, plowed the snow in the long, cold winters.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXgfgi40eeZmvY2iPhyx8AnRzqLl_y_pvezkuQ7u0bbt3bCL8Yojl7nobOA6YTiPuryHwyqbraZA0Krc9r2TffsUw2Do9HHnAunIMF9lzESXL7LsVRWODwc9xwg1DLYempw8XPJ1cp1kk/s2048/IMG_0393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXgfgi40eeZmvY2iPhyx8AnRzqLl_y_pvezkuQ7u0bbt3bCL8Yojl7nobOA6YTiPuryHwyqbraZA0Krc9r2TffsUw2Do9HHnAunIMF9lzESXL7LsVRWODwc9xwg1DLYempw8XPJ1cp1kk/w200-h150/IMG_0393.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>Unions don't come naturally to conservative and largely Republican
Garrett County, where you don't have drive far to see the signs, flags and
banners of allegiance to the failed Trump reelection campaign. Along Route 39
just west of Oakland, the county seat, a Trump/Pence sign had been altered --
the name of the former vice president/running mate removed and replaced with a
three-letter word to read Trump Won.<p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Another property along the highway sports a sign declaring,
"Fuck Biden and Fuck You For Voting Him." </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR-BdYxPRh0w-1W9lstT7Alpb0KjB0md2Tz5O6o64DUddwdmGmTk10pdnrwz4EBdZXF6rselEO_hhSgDZRI8f_6mlydCZ1v_cUK3j4WoAw7z2_-ku4Rnk04b9d9-Dm2QbTHbZWXhoJ2-Y/s2048/IMG_0321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR-BdYxPRh0w-1W9lstT7Alpb0KjB0md2Tz5O6o64DUddwdmGmTk10pdnrwz4EBdZXF6rselEO_hhSgDZRI8f_6mlydCZ1v_cUK3j4WoAw7z2_-ku4Rnk04b9d9-Dm2QbTHbZWXhoJ2-Y/w200-h150/IMG_0321.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />The political landscape likely was a little less bitter in 1970,
when the highway workers -- earning less than two dollars an hour and lacking
the job protections of a strong union -- sought recognition of the
traditionally urban-based American Federation of State, County and Municipal
Employees. The three-member board of county commissioners -- all Republicans --
refused. The employees waited until April, after most of the long snow season had
passed, to go on strike.<p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It didn't end until November, after county voters ousted the
incumbent commissioners and replaced them with three Democrats who on taking
office voted to recognize the union and then reached agreement on a contract.
Oddly, as far as anyone could remember, Garrett County hasn't elected a
Democrat to the board of commissioners in the half-century since.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">During the long battle over union recognition, the
commissioners fired the men who refused to return to work and attempted to
replace them. That August, the commissioners summoned the new hires to Oakland and
brought in a school bus to ferry them to the highway department garages and begin
work.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The union had sent members from Baltimore to intervene. And
they did so in dramatic fashion, flattening the tires, breaking the windows and
ripping out the ignition wires, as state police troopers watched without
intervening. That some of the union reinforcements were black did not go
unnoticed in a county that, at the time, was pretty much all-white... <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and to this day still has relatively few
residents of color.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In a cavernous meeting hall behind heavy oak doors, angry
voices could be heard -- one of them berating the police lieutenant in charge
of the troopers for allowing "those "n-----s" on the bus when
"there's no n-----s in Garrett County!" I was among a group of
reporters in the lobby there who overheard the exchange. Three of the
journalists had an ear pressed against the door, and nearly fell into the
room as the disgusted lieutenant opened the door to leave the meeting.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The strike also featured a few other explosive incidents --
with dynamite -- at targets including a bridge, and the fence around the
property of one of the commissioners. A striker later was given a jail sentence
after pleading guilty to dynamiting the fence.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Many of those at Tuesday's gathering were children and
widows of the strikers. Of the 139 county road workers, only about half a dozen
survive.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">One of them is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Friendsville resident Troy Wakefield, 84, who said
he drove a truck for the highway department for 30 years. "Everybody stuck
together back then," he told me. "The union even made my house
payment."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The union sent a car caravan on a 200-mile drive to Garrett
County to bring food and other supplies to the strikers, and raised money to
keep the men and their families financially afloat.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Longtime union leader Glenard S. Middleton Sr., executive
director of AFSCME's Maryland Council 67 and vice president of the Maryland-D.C.
AFL-CIO, emphasized in his remarks that the union and the workers here in
"God's country" are family.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Donna S. Edwards, a former social worker who is president of
the Maryland State and District of Columbia AFL-CIO, told the crowd that unions
are not about being Democrat or Republican -- but about achieving fair salaries
and protections that enable workers to support their families and communities.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If the commissioners in office 51 years ago made an error in
judgment, it was failing to realize that in the state's most sparsely populated
county, most voters were related to or friends of men on strike or were friends
of others connected to them. And that likely figured in their election defeat.<br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzVPMAJ-BPVLdwmNUnoMmj-9IbECefDxheaumDsxDPdLASdNxuqH_9m00Gm7a9yiOWdoLk8Yq9ejoULNldIrL0hBhmxyyI9vUVJRYRU1LhMvHDkiXM4yVIXlwbmb1qDAmxUFilHm3eyjM/s2048/IMG_0383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzVPMAJ-BPVLdwmNUnoMmj-9IbECefDxheaumDsxDPdLASdNxuqH_9m00Gm7a9yiOWdoLk8Yq9ejoULNldIrL0hBhmxyyI9vUVJRYRU1LhMvHDkiXM4yVIXlwbmb1qDAmxUFilHm3eyjM/w150-h200/IMG_0383.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><br />The sign was unveiled by Tom Holler, a retired roads worker
whose late father Roy was one of the strikers. He recalled walking the picket
line as a 10-year-old with his father. "I was supporting my dad," he
said.<p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">"We
came together to honor men, women and families who refused to be
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_SkcRX7pf4zCCSm6exc02Z_T-ZQOEsy1V-bXAHnWtEjLqTFRqNLxE1aI90a4mruhOP330xfv70RXJxHgpnGq2vXcPpq1ztOezPIRiJT2euXYNtYBD4AFEGmsdsuDI9e1Rng14NveUlE/s2048/IMG_0338.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_SkcRX7pf4zCCSm6exc02Z_T-ZQOEsy1V-bXAHnWtEjLqTFRqNLxE1aI90a4mruhOP330xfv70RXJxHgpnGq2vXcPpq1ztOezPIRiJT2euXYNtYBD4AFEGmsdsuDI9e1Rng14NveUlE/w150-h200/IMG_0338.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Len Shindel, speaking at ceremony.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />divided and fought successfully to move Garrett County forward in 1970," Len </span>Shindel wrote later in a Facebook post, thanking county residents and families of the road workers who joined in support of erecting the sign, and helped organize the ceremony.<span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"> "This morning and in coming months and years, we need to continually ask
ourselves if we are truly honoring the memory of those we commemorated
by crossing our boundaries in the present to address the pressing need
of working families in Garrett County for decent-paying jobs,
affordable housing and the tools needed to win a stable future in an
uncertain and challenging time."</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 d3f4x2em fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb iv3no6db jq4qci2q a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"> </span><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-21782600859731600762021-05-11T13:41:00.014-04:002021-05-11T13:51:40.180-04:00<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXSAEc0vHhSuRECo3XotOPblc31K1j0zkFfj7u3d2FIb5m3DoHkSPn8pFRCs3FOpZeTwVKnZIWKj0Q0c6zlaEb7kTi4gDI5Xco88A-tODxQ3vP-nJgQkR6YWFM4y7wxWC8IcjPCFb8uCQ/s960/bonnie+above+clouds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXSAEc0vHhSuRECo3XotOPblc31K1j0zkFfj7u3d2FIb5m3DoHkSPn8pFRCs3FOpZeTwVKnZIWKj0Q0c6zlaEb7kTi4gDI5Xco88A-tODxQ3vP-nJgQkR6YWFM4y7wxWC8IcjPCFb8uCQ/w400-h300/bonnie+above+clouds.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie checks out the clouds 8,500 feet up Maui's Haleakala, in February 2019. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Journey's End</b></span></p>
<h1 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i>'Time
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</span></h1><h1 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i><span> </span>for me to begin </i></span></span></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></h1><h1 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i>wrapping
up my life'</i></span></span></h1>
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</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #ffa400;"><span class="d2edcug0">-- Bonnie Jean Schupp, writing on Jan.
19, 2021</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #ffa400;"> </span></span></p><p> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On her 64th birthday,
Bonnie Schupp put on a sexy outfit, led me down to her improvised basement
photo studio, checked the settings and handed me her camera -- directing a
series of shots as she posed, playfully in some and just a tad risque in
others.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">She picked 64 of the resulting photos, lined them up in
orderly rows, and put them together as an image that was then printed on metal.
The title: "Will you still love me when I'm 64."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Bonnie's metal print was exhibited in an art show held by
the Kinsey Institute for Research in Sex, Gender, and Reproduction, on the
campus of Indiana University. It wasn't the grand prize winner -- that honor,
as I recall, went to the gay guys who posed in fantastic costumes to recreate
famous (and one might say, outrageous) Renaissance paintings. And it didn't get
a buyer.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">But when the show was ending, Bonnie was asked if she would
donate it to the institute's permanent collection. She joked that it was
another check-off for her bucket list. "I'm in the Kinsey
collection."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In January this year, Bonnie was given a diagnosis of
aggressive pancreatic cancer. "Well, I've had a good life," she told
her grim-faced doctor. "I don't have any regrets."</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFju3zn47bpvO_xUoPpMkPuYx8IERTf1iKnkQ9L664O4giIH0LRR6MHIljc5wpPvH8TmA5kAEnB96brFJx3cynSbrQtnje8N8ZXFBNjr97vbef69VipQOpftnsYYKkn4MQxGZCzBeBdfw/s1648/bonnie+downs+park.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1648" data-original-width="1648" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFju3zn47bpvO_xUoPpMkPuYx8IERTf1iKnkQ9L664O4giIH0LRR6MHIljc5wpPvH8TmA5kAEnB96brFJx3cynSbrQtnje8N8ZXFBNjr97vbef69VipQOpftnsYYKkn4MQxGZCzBeBdfw/w200-h200/bonnie+downs+park.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie at Downs Park, Jan. 17.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Then we went home, and a few days later Bonnie searched
through dresser drawers and her closet for another sexy outfit. We drove to
nearby Downs Park, to a somewhat secluded wall that provided a background, and
she handed me her iPhone to take pictures. She smiled, laughed, raised her
arms, lifted a leg, and I snapped away recording the joy of the moment she
wanted preserved.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Bonnie's journey ended two months later.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She worried less
about death than about me, her soulmate of 42 years. And about how losing her
would affect others dear to her heart. Five weeks before the end, so friends
would not be taken by surprise, she wrote about her grim diagnosis in a
Facebook post -- illustrated by a photo she took in 2005 of the Christo/Jeanne
Claude "Gates" art installation in New York City.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">"<span class="d2edcug0">I have had a blessed life
surrounded by love from family and friends," she wrote. "How did it
happen that David and I know so many kind, loving and talented people? Each of
you should know how much I value the time we have spent together over the
years."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Bonnie had a lot of friends. Her iPhone
stored more than 800 contacts, and on the day she died, I tried -- as best I
could -- to pick out and personally call or email those closest to her. Hours
of emotionally draining conversations later, I had to abandon the effort and
just post the sad news on the social platform. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">And then came the response -- 418
comments from friends across the nation and across oceans, expressions of love,
of how Bonnie embraced, inspired, taught, or mentored them over the years. Some
also put up their own Facebook posts on her passing, resulting in hundreds
more. It was an unexpected measure of her life, and the joys she received from her
simple acts of friendship and acceptance. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">She embraced people in all colors,
genders, religions, nationalities -- a global assembly of friendship and love
that I was blessed to be part of -- and in our days, weeks, months and years
together, hardly noticed how unique and powerful that kind of love had become.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">I thought of Bonnie as a Renaissance
woman, from the wide range of her skills, knowledge and careers, and her
incessant quest for new experiences. She was a teacher for about six years in
Baltimore City, and later 15 years in Anne Arundel County. In between, she was co-owner
of a camera shop, a freelance newspaper columnist, and always a photographer --
aside from being my wife, and taking the primary role in raising our two
children.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Beginnings</b> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">We first met in 1968, as neighbors in a
Baltimore rowhouse at 2835 North Calvert Street -- Bonnie and her first
husband, Scott Caples, living on the third floor when I moved into the
second-floor apartment with my first wife. The closest we had to a formal
introduction came one weekend morning when Bonnie wandered out of her bedroom
in her newlywed nightgown and found me sitting in her living room, reading
their just-delivered copy of the Baltimore Sun after my night of working at the
newspaper's city desk.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">"I was just checking to see if a
change was made in your edition," I told her. She nodded, a little
sleepily, and continued on her way to the bathroom. And I departed moments
later.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Soon after, Baltimore was caught up in
the urban rioting that followed the assassination of the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther
King Jr. Bonnie wanted to take pictures of National Guard soldiers on patrol,
and I -- with a press pass -- offered to drive her around in my little
convertible. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The following January, after Bonnie and
Scott had bought a little house in the Brooklyn Park neighborhood, a
16-year-old high school dropout named Victor Jackson brought us back together.
Young Victor, living on riot-devastated Gay Street, had tried to save the life
of an elderly man who had collapsed from a heart attack. A story I wrote about
him for the newspaper brought a call from an editor at Scholastic Scope, a
magazine widely used in junior high school classrooms, asking if I could write
about Victor for the publication -- and get a picture of him.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZv0Homkw5dZGVt_g8tmJ4xEO_lzLXKaZwDrZEvvaaSy94aLvSlABFaHzKkzPRIZ9tezN4ky5V5QlmkIMs8DVCH-bm0fLpUSWH_I4hutSjtBMk-fkBu8GLujo-pXwecwKfWSRc4M0qR1o/s2048/victor+story+-+Copy.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1493" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZv0Homkw5dZGVt_g8tmJ4xEO_lzLXKaZwDrZEvvaaSy94aLvSlABFaHzKkzPRIZ9tezN4ky5V5QlmkIMs8DVCH-bm0fLpUSWH_I4hutSjtBMk-fkBu8GLujo-pXwecwKfWSRc4M0qR1o/w146-h200/victor+story+-+Copy.jpg" width="146" /></a></span></div><span class="d2edcug0"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">I could have offered the photo
opportunity -- and its $50 payment -- to a newspaper colleague, but had a
better idea: Call Bonnie, who was teaching at Benjamin Franklin Junior High in
South Baltimore. It was our first collaboration, with my story and her photo of
Victor appearing in the April 11, 1969, issue of the magazine. And Bonnie, in
turn, invited me to talk to her adolescent students about newspaper work.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">We didn't see each other much over the
next decade -- just rare times when we would run into each other in a city many
call Smalltimore. I don't even remember when I told her about my buying the
large end-of-row house known as Toad Hall at 2937 Calvert, just a block from
where we had first met, and how I had painted the window frames orange.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Around Feb. 1, 1979, Bonnie was
attending the birthday party of her favorite former student, Darlene Kelley,
two blocks down Calvert Street, and -- amid a group of young 20-somethings she
did not know -- had the bright idea of walking up to that big townhouse and
inviting me to the party. Unfortunately, I was at work that night, so she left
a message with a girlfriend of mine that long-ago neighbor Bonnie was down the
street at the party and maybe I could join her there after I got home.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">It must have been close to midnight
when I got the intriguing message, so I walked down the street to find the
noisy party going strong in a second-floor apartment. But no one answered my
knock on the downstairs outer door. It was cold and windy, and I stood there in
my scruffy black leather-fringed jacket, a silly cowboy hat holding down my
unruly long hair, waiting, hoping that someone would soon be leaving and open
the door.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">About twenty minutes later, the door
opened -- and it was Bonnie, leaving the party with a young man in tow (she
later insisted that she never had done that before). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I got her phone number, her address, and
promised to give her a call.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">I walked alone, and slowly, back to my
house thinking how odd that seemed. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">So I wrote her a letter... and she
wrote back... and we learned we were both sort of single, awaiting divorces --
she from her first husband, me from my second wife. I wrote some more, and left
letters in her mailbox late at night, after work at the newspaper. And she
invited me to dinner. We sort of kissed... I was nervous, a little off target.
And I felt there was something remarkable about this relationship -- less crazy
than the others I'd had over the 11 years since the spring of 1968 -- as it
grew into intimacy.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">I found myself writing poems, and in
love. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">And Bonnie opened herself to me.
"I'm going to make myself be vulnerable," she said -- and soon after,
she proposed. But not marriage. She asked if I would like to have a baby with
her.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">"That sounds like fun," I
said, and promised her a daughter -- and we set to work making it happen.
Mostly, that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> fun. Our best guess
was that the magic happened on my second-floor back porch during a summer
thunderstorm.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">As her belly grew, my proposal came
next -- that we should marry. And on Feb. 10, 1980, days after our respective
divorces became final, in the living room of her little Brooklyn Park home with
a small group of friends and family in attendance at what I called a BYOS
(bring your own shotgun) wedding, we officially embarked on a remarkable
41-year journey.</span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7rXoE_S8iSaYwBQPFXv5lVDzxX8tahymVB_Ir0rl5krH4avwGpHtWABqVBu8l7t3W50cDB8ZI_8MzVIvqGX3-MaGRRmlC6FQF3h9R6unHbSGqvxKaDAJpbY0gu95zHUv_u144Sc0xJY/s600/wedding+d+and+b.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="369" data-original-width="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7rXoE_S8iSaYwBQPFXv5lVDzxX8tahymVB_Ir0rl5krH4avwGpHtWABqVBu8l7t3W50cDB8ZI_8MzVIvqGX3-MaGRRmlC6FQF3h9R6unHbSGqvxKaDAJpbY0gu95zHUv_u144Sc0xJY/s320/wedding+d+and+b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BYOS wedding, Feb. 10, 1980</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"></span></div><span class="d2edcug0"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">We sold our respective houses a year
later and moved to suburban Pasadena, thinking ahead to schools for our
daughter Lauren -- and the likely arrival of the daughter from my first
marriage, whose upbringing with her birth mother, step-father and step-sister
in Florida was not going well. In third grade, she was kicked out of school for
kicking the principal, and my first ex-wife sent her back to me that summer, a
deeply troubled child, and Bonnie became the mother of two.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Over the course of the next four
decades, the kids turned out fine. Lauren graduated from what is now Frostburg
State University in Western Maryland, where she met the man who became her
husband and where Bonnie had earned her undergraduate degree in 1967. She now
produces commercials for television and radio stations in Salisbury, Maryland.
And daughter FL (who legally changed her name from Jennifer) became a nurse at
age 40 after years of uncertainty at her direction in life. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span class="d2edcug0">Adventures</span></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Bonnie retired from teaching in 2003,
to speed up her multi-year challenge of night graduate classes at the
University of Baltimore and, two years later, at age 60, was awarded her doctorate
in communications design. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Her focus turned more heavily to
photography -- selling stock images through iStockphoto.com, and then Getty
Images after it acquired iStock. And she became part of Baltimore's ever-growing
arts community, exhibiting and selling photos at gallery shows as we developed
friendships with area artists, writers and musicians.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">We traveled widely over the years,
managing to visit all 50 states and a dozen countries -- and making even more
friends with people we met along the way. We were hosts from the beginning of
our marriage in an international peace organization, Servas, welcoming
travelers to stay free in our home -- and visiting some of them in return.
Nations on the map became places our friends lived, and the world grew smaller
and more intimate to us.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiICGN9CXi_vtPHd6OQptaYooPQAZGmUfgx2999m5RQqpP9uuIFQcqmqHlM5KUoLrX7DM-hdu8cHMiOEQpiInO8HDmYZqjqUaFleFEwnGdhxnn48B0RgnCQklb0xSDO94ODM8CpO5y_TxA/s1200/bonnie+and+clyde.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="845" data-original-width="1200" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiICGN9CXi_vtPHd6OQptaYooPQAZGmUfgx2999m5RQqpP9uuIFQcqmqHlM5KUoLrX7DM-hdu8cHMiOEQpiInO8HDmYZqjqUaFleFEwnGdhxnn48B0RgnCQklb0xSDO94ODM8CpO5y_TxA/w320-h225/bonnie+and+clyde.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Posing as Bonnie and Clyde at an iStock event in Utah, 2018</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="d2edcug0"><br />Adventure always went hand-in-hand with
our journalism and photography. My freelance travel and feature stories were
illustrated with Bonnie's photos. We rode elephants in the circus parade. We
drove 7,000 miles across America and back in one of our epic road trips,
exploring quirky attractions, visiting and making new friends, and blogging
about the thrills of it all.</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Much as I thought of myself as the
writer, Bonnie proved far more prolific with entries in her
"Journeys" blog, and self-publishing half a dozen books incorporating
her words, poetry, photography and even family recipes for our daughters. The
most ambitious book is titled "365 Gifts" and compiles with photo
illustrations blog posts on a gift each day brought, beginning on her 70th
birthday. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">An earlier 365-day project is presented
in her book, "Dog Tag Poetry," inspired by a box of metal dog tags,
each stamped with a single word, given to her one Christmas by our Baltimore poet
friend Shirley Brewer. Bonnie picked a tag at random each day, incorporated its
word in a haiku, and illustrated it with a photo.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">An example, for the word
"machine" she photographed a golden binder clip holding the metal tag
to a sheet of paper and wrote:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">We
need a simple</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">machine
to hold all pieces</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">of
life together.</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span class="d2edcug0">'Soft landing'</span></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">We had our trials over the years, as
our elders passed away and our own health issues cropped up. I nearly died a
couple of times -- in a car wreck in 1983, and from an infection and sepsis in
the fall of 2019, when Bonnie became part of my nursing team for weeks of
antibiotics infusions. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">And in early autumn last year, it was
Bonnie's turn, with pancreatitis and surgery to remove her gallbladder. There
was a spot on her pancreas. The surgeon said it might be a cyst, might be
something worse... that a scan a few months down the road would be needed to
check on it. But by then, it proved to be something worse as digestive problems
were diagnosed in early January as aggressive pancreatic cancer.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The spot now measured four centimeters,
and there were cancer lesions in her liver and lungs, and it had reached a
lymph node. We took walks together -- which became shorter as her condition
worsened -- and talked about how we both had figured I would be the first to go.
We hoped that chemo would buy some time, but after the first treatment she
became weaker and we turned to hospice care.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Our friend Carlos Zigel, a retired
doctor who had been our primary care physician for years before ending his career
specializing in palliative care, had told us what was coming... that chemo
might work, but eventually would fail, and hospice would be the next step with
a goal of achieving a "soft landing."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The last days were difficult. Our
daughters were with us every day, and Bonnie's sisters Nancy and Jaymie visited
on a Sunday, at my urging -- finding it hard to believe the end was coming so
quickly. Bonnie had stopped eating, and was moved to a hospital bed in our
living room the next day as hospice nurses and aides began helping us. We had a
few other visitors, close friends, come to see her... but by Tuesday afternoon,
she was wearing out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">"I want to fall asleep and not
wake up," she said. And by Wednesday, she mostly slept. Her breathing
seemed labored as I sat through most of that night by her bedside, held her
hand, talked to her. About 4:30 a.m. on Thursday, when her breathing eased into
a seemingly normal rhythm, I put on some beautiful music by the Celtic group Connemara
we had seen perform years earlier, and then I drifted into sleep on the couch
behind her bed. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">I awakened about 6:30, the music just
ending and dawn brightening the sky. The house was suddenly silent. I jumped
from the couch, frightened, and found her gone... her journey ended in the hour
before sunrise of March 11.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Surprises, memories </b></span><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The weeks since have been difficult. I
have written about time bombs around the house, perhaps placed by Bonnie in
those final weeks where I would find them. The first to detonate: A three-ring
loose-leaf notebook on a shelf in her office, its spine marked with our
initials in a heart. Inside were the letters and poems I had written and left
in her mailbox back in 1979.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Under a pile of stuff on a love seat in
my guest room office sat one of the nine large photo albums chronologically
illustrating the first years of our journey together as a family. Opening the
cover, I found a letter she had written to me dated April 24, 1979. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">"Here are some (but not all) of
the reasons why I love you," it began. "They are not in order of
importance or any other order, but just as they flicker through my head."
There followed a list of 20. If I had to pick just one, it would be Number 10:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">"You aren't afraid to give and
share as many people are. I think sometimes they are afraid that by giving of
themselves they may lose themselves. I think the opposite is true. One has
everything to gain in giving. It's one of life's paradoxes."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The next page held a photo of her
pregnant belly, with the title "Expectations."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Her documentation included a photo of
the positive pregnancy test -- a view of a circle through the top of a test
tube, dated July 22, 1979 -- and a Childbirth Education Association certificate
for attending its course in the Lamaze Method of Psychoprophylaxis in
Obstetrics (the shorter name, natural childbirth) dated Feb. 17, 1980.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqs7CHNxEWFdL_zV0XpAA_rhtzlsPZTeZAq2JVn2fPgPCR4Z6aKPdNwZdAgk4AjCjnbn_BsW55h3TdAkA-NgT2H2snGg2y2UVi3Z_MCOkh8hk5C05DXQEvWMrCuLWPXA5quqGlhWQmXI/s450/Schupp_04_WelcomeMyDaughter.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqs7CHNxEWFdL_zV0XpAA_rhtzlsPZTeZAq2JVn2fPgPCR4Z6aKPdNwZdAgk4AjCjnbn_BsW55h3TdAkA-NgT2H2snGg2y2UVi3Z_MCOkh8hk5C05DXQEvWMrCuLWPXA5quqGlhWQmXI/s320/Schupp_04_WelcomeMyDaughter.jpg" /></a></span></div><span class="d2edcug0"><br />There's a photo of her hand on her
belly, captioned "Tiny kicks," and another of me in blue jeans and
tee-shirt lying on that back porch and titled "Beginnings." From Feb.
10, there's photos of our wedding, and from March 22, photos of Lauren being
born -- some taken by Bonnie herself as she was pushing. Talk about
multi-tasking! (One image -- showing Lauren's tiny hand visible between Bonnie's
legs, the doctor reaching down, me aiming a camera from a more-graphic angle,
and some guy watching from the doorway -- won an honorable mention many years
later in an online photo competition of Women in Photography International.)</span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Creating a life, witnessing it come
into being, changes one's perspective. There is time before existence, and not
just our time -- billions of years of time in a cosmos with billions of suns,
and odds far longer than hitting the Mega Millions lottery in becoming. We had experienced
our time before Lauren, but <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>could only
wonder at the chain of cosmic events and couplings stretching back generations,
millennia, epochs, to some starting point scientists call the Big Bang.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">And there is time after us, after Lauren,
after everyone alive at this moment is gone. The universe doesn't end. We are
part of it, in being and as dust... stardust dating to the creation, blessed at
having had a relative speck of time to comprehend its beauty, blessed at being
part of it for eternity.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>'Building a temple stone by stone'</b></span><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">Bonnie thought about existence as she
sensed her journey ending. She wrote about it in a few diary-like entries I
found a few weeks ago in her desktop computer, perhaps also left there for me
to discover -- much like the loose-leaf notebook of my letters and poems that
she had preserved for 42 years, or the letter explaining her love for me.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">On my birthday, January 16, she wrote
about her reaction to learning just four days earlier "that my body has
been invaded -- by cancer."</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">It
is interesting that since I turned 76, I've been thinking about death a lot,
partly in remembering Mom's death when she was 76. I thought that if I could
make it beyond age 76, I might have a chance to go on more adventures from my
bucket list</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">And
even stranger, while in my bedroom, often stretching and meditating, I would
feel a clump of my hair move by itself, with no help from wind or me, or the
shifting of light and shadow on the wall. It almost felt like a ghostly
presence trying to comfort me. Call it what you will -- an altered state or
imagination -- I felt it and thought of my father and his last journey with
Parkinson's Disease.</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">My
life has been full of journeys and I am about to embark on the final chapter of
mine!</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">She wrote on January 17 about that trip
to Downs Park:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Today I decided I wanted to dress up and
have David take some pictures of me. I had bought a sexy skirt a year and a
half ago, knowing I'd find an occasion to wear it sometime. Then, I thought
"sometime" would be soon, maybe an art opening. It didn't come. But
Covid did, along with various medical problems that David or I faced.</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">I spent time applying makeup for the first
time in many months. Then I put on a black top, the long skirt (it fit when I
bought it, but today I had to use two safety pins in the waistband) and tall
black boots. We drove to Downs Park and chose an unused racquetball court.
Then, before it got too cold, David must have shot 40 pictures.</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This was a photo shoot I needed to show what
I looked like today. And it helped me feel better today.</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">The next entry, dated January 18, she
wrote:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span class="d2edcug0">Yesterday,
in her sermon in a (South) Carolina Methodist Church, Darlene (the Rev. Darlene
Kelley) mentioned me and encouraged people to pray for me. I appreciate the
connection to human spirit and it touches me. If there is an omniscient being,
I doubt that it/she/he is a micromanager of human lives. But I do understand
how belief in a God can give a person strength. And I understand how the love
of others can bring strength to agnostics and unbelievers.</span></i></p><i>
</i><p class="MsoNormal"><i><span class="d2edcug0">What
is the purpose of my life? I never saw it as a leader who affects millions of
lives. I've always seen it in a more humble way. The purpose of my life has
been to make a difference -- not in a large way but in many small ways, like
building a temple stone by stone.</span></i></p><i>
</i><p class="MsoNormal"><i><span class="d2edcug0">I
know for sure that people have changed me in the best of ways and I hope that
my spirit connects with others to make a good difference. Perhaps this is
immortality, not in a place called heaven, but here, now, on earth. When our
spirit has melded with another human spirit, it exponentially grows and
continues.</span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">In 1975, as a 30-year-old, Bonnie felt
a need to change her perspective on life by jumping from a perfectly good
airplane -- in those days a solo parachute jump after a five-hour training session
on the ground. She alluded to that jump in her entry on January 19:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This
is the time for reckoning. Time has chosen this year for me to begin wrapping
up my life. It has been a good life, but is anyone really ready to leave? Maybe
my letting go from the airplane strut and trusting my journey downward was
practice for this time in my life?</i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0">(In her last weeks, Bonnie completed
writing a book-length memoir that will be published in time for a celebration
of her life, most likely in October. For anyone wishing to make a donation in
her memory, Bonnie would have suggested Planned Parenthood of Maryland,
Creative Alliance or the American Visionary Art Museum -- but any worthy cause
would be lovely.)</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzMtQZQRoYgzRTCNYXTMQOOKnyyj6h5Qv5Yx2W5RpK5AM4dyxQDjsfAr6TF1N9e6b8gxmrGdA5fW51PSsQ54gE-WWEOD4yg8y09v_Yr-jFyePjjbWepvl7xI_00XHpmhQb-O70GpC5Ot0/s1800/bonnie+family.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1447" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzMtQZQRoYgzRTCNYXTMQOOKnyyj6h5Qv5Yx2W5RpK5AM4dyxQDjsfAr6TF1N9e6b8gxmrGdA5fW51PSsQ54gE-WWEOD4yg8y09v_Yr-jFyePjjbWepvl7xI_00XHpmhQb-O70GpC5Ot0/w321-h400/bonnie+family.jpg" width="321" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At home with daughters FL (top of stairs), Lauren and her husband Matthew.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="d2edcug0"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="d2edcug0"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAo05E9LNkeuveUlR9JwLTyPQmGTeFRdiTT2aVlJErAmSbOd94xaIJoKR9Vlh6fTJT2L5P_sYL5zy2OUbPjdrYxMdyVR61dcEsCaMptKOgEDPYdSwEqVp1etcuR3qiM6sV50o5bEIbPiI/s2048/Vladimir_Tamari_Schupp001.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1729" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAo05E9LNkeuveUlR9JwLTyPQmGTeFRdiTT2aVlJErAmSbOd94xaIJoKR9Vlh6fTJT2L5P_sYL5zy2OUbPjdrYxMdyVR61dcEsCaMptKOgEDPYdSwEqVp1etcuR3qiM6sV50o5bEIbPiI/w169-h200/Vladimir_Tamari_Schupp001.jpg" width="169" /></a></span></div><span class="d2edcug0"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1vY_fCL0HGi7M9TAupS7mVgvbSSr00Yr6ptmbDlpgIfpY7ZSlXJHkr972TqA44CtRALcn9WrdGcArA5NNgZHQKmYLWhR3Z-J-Vci5CAFIPHRITigY8hDQY4gtxZ9704hhcmqEgKn8QY/s377/17553802_10154298836932111_8457357104465327966_n.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="377" data-original-width="377" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1vY_fCL0HGi7M9TAupS7mVgvbSSr00Yr6ptmbDlpgIfpY7ZSlXJHkr972TqA44CtRALcn9WrdGcArA5NNgZHQKmYLWhR3Z-J-Vci5CAFIPHRITigY8hDQY4gtxZ9704hhcmqEgKn8QY/w200-h200/17553802_10154298836932111_8457357104465327966_n.jpg" width="200" /></a> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Bonnie, with her signature smile (left), and a portrait of her by our late friend Vladimir Tamari, drawn with a sharpened twig as they sat under cherry blossoms in a small park in Tokyo, in 2007.<br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="d2edcug0"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-50313091051109693312020-05-29T11:25:00.000-04:002020-06-09T13:08:26.933-04:00<br />
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Minneapolis has</span></h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>
</b></span><br />
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">its own 'Freddie Gray'</span></h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>
</b></span><br />
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">reckoning</span></h2>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>What is it that police officers</i></h3>
<i>
</i><br />
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>fail to understand?</i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I call it my First Law of Journalism: Cops Lie. It was
something I learned in the early days of my 40-year career as a reporter and
editor at The Baltimore Sun, first witnessed during three days spent with a police squad
in tactical drug enforcement half a century ago. </div>
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<br /></div>
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That cops make false arrests, write misleading reports,
plant evidence and even steal from people they arrest has long been known --
particularly by people of color in urban America. In Baltimore, that
misbehavior became public in recent years through criminal acts by the city
police department's now-infamous Gun Trace Task Force. To date, a dozen cops
have been convicted.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Before that, five years ago, there was Freddie Gray. He was
arrested as a drug suspect in West Baltimore's long-troubled Sandtown
neighborhood. The only video of the arrest shows the young black man in handcuffs
and leg shackles on the ground, and then being carried and pushed into the back
of a prisoner van. Somewhere before the van arrived at the area police station,
Gray suffered a broken neck. He died in a hospital a week later.</div>
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The anger in Baltimore built up during that week, and
exploded after Gray's funeral into days of arson, looting and property
destruction. The city's top prosecutor, State's Attorney Marilyn Mosby, brought
criminal charges against six police officers involved in the arrest --
including the driver of the van on the odd count of "depraved-heart
murder," in a presumption that Gray, left unrestrained by safety belts in
the back of the van, was given a "rough ride."</div>
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But there was no definitive evidence, no video of him being
injured. And none of the cops was convicted.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In Minneapolis, "Freddie Gray" was a burly black
man named George Floyd, 46, who worked as a security guard at a bar -- and there
were witnesses as three officers knelt atop his body as he lay face-down and
handcuffed in the street next to a parked car. One officer kept a knee pressed
on Floyd's neck as he repeatedly cried out, "I can't breathe," and
even called out for his mother. A fourth officer stood watching, seeming to do
nothing to intervene. Floyd was unconscious when paramedics arrived, and
pronounced dead at a hospital.</div>
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At least two bystanders had cellphones and recorded video
that bore witness through social media to all of Minneapolis and the world of
the brutality that marked Floyd's last minutes of life.</div>
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<br /></div>
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And within a day, the rage that had simmered through years
of police brutality, malfeasance, insensitivity and even racism across America
exploded in Minneapolis. Last night, and into the wee hours today, the local
police station -- evacuated and left unprotected -- was burning, while a
block-long stretch of looted stores across the street was engulfed in flames.</div>
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<br /></div>
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A
crowd appearing upwards of a thousand strong celebrated in the street, cheering
as some people set off fireworks and others hurled wooden boards and flammable
debris to fuel the fire rising at the station's lobby entrance.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Fires were also set elsewhere in the city and neighboring St. Paul, and amid that
chaos another demonstration some 700 miles away brought a cordon of police
officers to protect buildings in the center of Louisville, Ky. Seven people
were reported wounded by gunfire during the protest there related to the
killing of a black woman, Breonna Taylor, by white police officers in her home
two months ago. Television coverage showed a bonfire being stoked in the middle
of a street near what appeared to be the courthouse.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Other demonstrations broke out in New York City, Phoenix, Denver, Memphis, and Columbus, Ohio. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Which brings us back to my First Law of Journalism. What, I
wondered, would the police have reported about George Floyd's death had there
been no video bearing witness. </div>
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<br /></div>
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According to a New York Times article, the initial statement
by the Minneapolis police -- issued before the videos surfaced -- "was
short and sanitized. An allegation of forgery. A suspect who 'appeared to be
under the influence,' who 'physically resisted officers' and who appeared to be
'suffering medical distress.'"</div>
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<br /></div>
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It took a week for Freddie Gray to die and several
subsequent days of the so-called "Baltimore uprising" before
prosecutor Mosby announced criminal charges against the six police officers, in
what was clearly an effort to calm the city's chaos.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In Minneapolis, the timeline of events is much more
compressed -- and perhaps it was surprising that authorities did not quickly
lodge an assault charge that would bring at least one of the officers into custody
-- the one who had his knee on Floyd's neck -- pending likely indictment by a
grand jury. The city did, however, announce the firing of all four of the officers
involved in the nightmarish arrest.<br />
<br />
But early this afternoon, authorities in Minneapolis announced that the kneeling officer, Derek Chauvin, was now under arrest -- charged with third-degree murder and manslaughter. "This case has moved with extraordinary speed," said Hennepin County Attorney Mike Freeman. "This is by far the fastest we've ever charged a police officer."</div>
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<br /></div>
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There's really nothing new here. We have seen the chaos
before, as in the Los Angeles rioting triggered by the recorded police beating
of Rodney King more than a generation ago. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are multiple factors underlying these incidents,
including an erosion of decency in some police officers as they develop a lack
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And in response, particularly in minority communities, there is an ever-growing
mistrust of law enforcement and the criminal justice system.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In black urban America, they've talked for years about
police misconduct.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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What some police officers fail to understand now is that
technology putting video capability in the hands of nearly every person on the
street is showing evidence time after time for that mistrust.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Police could see this coming, having for years tried to
prevent people from recording their activities in public view. Courts have ruled
consistently that people have the right to record police activity in public, so
long as they are not interfering.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And there's another matter some police officers forget -- who
they work for.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<![endif]-->David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-73539478313369631652020-05-05T12:22:00.002-04:002020-05-05T12:30:08.120-04:00Fifty years later<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Remembering landmarks</span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>after half a century </b></span></h2>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
</h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>My first front-page byline, </i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>overshadowed by history</i></h3>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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It was 8:30 on a Saturday night when the story began -- a
middle-aged man knocking on the door of a Catholic church rectory on
Baltimore's Old York Road seeking help, telling a priest he was being "terrorized by
a group of teen-agers."</div>
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<br /></div>
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Another priest called the city police emergency number. And
then they waited. And waited. In the ensuing hours, Father Richard T. Lawrence
tried to navigate by phone through the chain of command, but was unable to get
beyond the patrolman manning the office of the night commander, Maj. George C.
Schnabel. When he called again, the same patrol officer informed the priest
that the major had flatly refused to send a patrol car to the area.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Two days later, Father Lawrence reached out elsewhere --
calling the Baltimore Sun, where this young reporter arriving for work on a
noon general assignment shift was handed the story to check out. It was a
Monday, and bigger news was breaking elsewhere in America and Maryland, but the
priest's complaint became the lead story of the next day's front page.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPqXOeJHL6MeLxN9ERoTGduPn7oQ1MFyNpHq8CkDSNMaXzwRIoZ8lVRbw2FlHCWIAX-w1f-qyhHDkhQiW9RyiwanoTBLYSY2M6kbS45UhQjKjrkC0r_rqGdGNMD1XOswFk5QCW1mt0Ws/s1600/IMG_8296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPqXOeJHL6MeLxN9ERoTGduPn7oQ1MFyNpHq8CkDSNMaXzwRIoZ8lVRbw2FlHCWIAX-w1f-qyhHDkhQiW9RyiwanoTBLYSY2M6kbS45UhQjKjrkC0r_rqGdGNMD1XOswFk5QCW1mt0Ws/s320/IMG_8296.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Turned out, the police department had stopped responding to
calls from areas near the home bases of half a dozen organizations deemed to be
black militants. "We're not responding to certain areas on a selective
basis," Col. Frank J. Battaglia, the chief of patrol, told me, "in
areas where we may have a confrontation."</div>
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<br /></div>
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The church rectory was more than a city block from the home of a
group called Making a Nation, on Cator Avenue. The space between was informally
referred to as "a gray area" -- and the police were not responding
there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The story won my first front-page byline, and showed a measure of
importance for issues of race relations in Baltimore -- which has not really
changed much since.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That story appeared exactly 50 years ago today, and can be
readily found in a coffee table-size book published by the newspaper in 1999
titled "A Century in The Sun: Front Pages of the 20th Century."</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the context of history, my story was vastly overplayed on
what was then an eight-column page. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next to it, across five columns, was an
eventual Pulitzer Prize-winning photo by photojournalism student John Filo of a teenager, her arms spread in
anguish as she knelt over the body of a student killed by Ohio National Guard
gunfire during an antiwar demonstration at Kent State University.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In all, four students were killed and nine injured as the
guardsmen tried to disperse hundreds of demonstrators on campus. And a story
under the photo reported that police and Guard troops had been ordered to
occupy the University of Maryland's College Park campus. "College Park
Declared Emergency Area As New Disorders Erupt," the headline read. A
bottom-page photo showed state police using tear gas to disperse a crowd of
demonstrators there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kent State and its reaction across America marked a
homefront turning point in the antiwar movement, but the Vietnam combat grinded
on another five years -- and not the last of ultimately useless wars for this
nation, as witness Iraq and Afghanistan.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Likewise for race relations in Baltimore.</div>
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<br /></div>
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My slightly overplayed story on "gray areas" was
flanked by an article on state and federal arrest warrants being issued for
black militant H. Rap Brown after he failed to appear for trial on riot and
arson charges, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and there was a
"reefer" under my headline to a back page story on Baltimore's police
commissioner denying that arrests a week earlier of Black Panther members
caused a rise in tensions.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Gov. Marvin Mandel, who in those days had oversight on the
city police chief, ordered an investigation of the "gray areas"
incident, which quickly determined that the commissioner had ordered no
response to calls from the half-dozen addresses of militant groups without the
presence of a ranking officer. The order was misinterpreted, however, as
subordinates simply avoided response even to areas nearby.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I was sent to police headquarters to interview the
commissioner, Donald D. Pomerleau, but he was having none of it. His secretary
said he was too busy to see me, so I told her I'd wait. I sat there for five
hours. Came 5 o'clock, and the secretary turned off the lights and told me he
was gone.</div>
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<br /></div>
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What has not gone in the 50 years since is the issue of race
in Baltimore, as witness the "uprising" of five years ago, after the
fatal injury of the arrested Freddie Gray in a police van that still divides
the city. And race continues to be a component of nearly every aspect of life
in the city -- education, health, housing, economics, politics. The current
mayoral election features a handful of credible black candidates, and one white
female candidate. A recent political ad for a black candidate purported to show
the geographic pattern of her campaign donations as a swath of the city through
its predominately white population centers.</div>
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<br /></div>
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And there is the issue of race in public safety, and
distrust of police by much of the black community not just because of the
Freddie Gray death. It has been exacerbated by the scandal of the police
department's rogue Gun Trace Task Force, many of whose members (not all of them
white) falsified evidence, stole money and drugs in raids and arrests, and
ended up in prison themselves.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Fifty years and running, and what has changed in our
society?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-88081324811215272672019-07-30T17:19:00.000-04:002019-08-16T17:49:42.541-04:00Defending Baltimore<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF2MVuzMG4X49qadgwKKQfCh0cZcVICAYzYe6lRRmNPtH6g_YpQsFtsqI6ITedD344OofgFdY8fQJ1n9ObvIriFed451WWLCvykGIkyE7tSjiS1xwwMCuD4CquHqkDENO4M7xIKNrpCQ/s1600/from-pagoda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1419" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF2MVuzMG4X49qadgwKKQfCh0cZcVICAYzYe6lRRmNPtH6g_YpQsFtsqI6ITedD344OofgFdY8fQJ1n9ObvIriFed451WWLCvykGIkyE7tSjiS1xwwMCuD4CquHqkDENO4M7xIKNrpCQ/s400/from-pagoda.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baltimore, viewed from the Pagoda in Patterson Park (Photos by Bonnie J. Schupp)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The city of my birth<span style="background-color: white;"></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">has problems but promise,<span style="background-color: white;"></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">reflecting urban America </span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></h2>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-size: x-large;">Let's take a ride for the 'Ettlin Tour' </span></i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">In September 1814 -- two and a half weeks after burning and
ransacking Washington -- thousands of soldiers and sailors in the military of
English King George III attacked Baltimore. But the defenders proved far
stronger than anticipated, and the city endured. Some would say it saved the
young nation after the bombardment that inspired the eventual National Anthem.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">In July 2019 -- just over three weeks after a speech in
which he confused events of the Revolutionary War with the conflict a
generation later -- would-be American King Donny the First also attacked Baltimore, in a
bombardment of words.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The result was predictable, because this city -- despite its
many problems -- has no shortage of defenders. And herein, I join them.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">I was born in Baltimore, raised near the famous Pimlico race
course, and lived in the city for but a few months of my first 35 years. And
when I left, I didn't go far... just about 17 miles to the south for the sake
of a large, tree-shaded yard, quality public schools for the kids, and close to
the camera business then owned by my new wife.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">For the 38 years since that move, Baltimore may not have
been home. But it remained the center of our universe. Friends and family live
there or nearby, and in retirement our cultural life is focused there. And when
we have visitors from afar, many from other countries, or meet new friends, I
offer them an experience known as "the Ettlin tour" drawn from my
knowledge as a native and, for 40 years, local news journalist at the Baltimore
Sun. The tour for decades was part of the orientation for new hires in the
newsroom... even for new publishers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>From Sandtown to Guilford, the Great Divide </b></i></span></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">I show off the best and worst of Baltimore, from the poverty-mired
Sandtown slums and source of the 2015 Freddie Gray uprising to the mansions and
gardens of ritzy Guilford. Baltimore well illustrates the enormous gulf between
rich and poor in the United States of America.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Most of Baltimore's some 620,000 residents exist in the
middle of that economic chasm, probably more of them in the lower middle of the
income spectrum. And since the peak population and industry era of the 1950s,
when Baltimore topped out around a million strong, the complexion of its ever-smaller
population has darkened. It is a majority black city. And there is not an issue
facing the city that does not have a racial aspect... schools, policing,
economic development, housing, health, welfare, politics.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5k5E1Wb0uOGbp76VM_HUhC8hBKP1CID6Tov7JAaujKYYp79dgs0Ue35pY_HlWD5rOwd0ByHTKcEWvCvRAekFMMmWuVYEZ_Dset310ZgBiWGkEliRv2_mjEhemtcdTEGPmjoDOdZjf-yI/s1600/harbor-DSCN1496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1468" data-original-width="1600" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5k5E1Wb0uOGbp76VM_HUhC8hBKP1CID6Tov7JAaujKYYp79dgs0Ue35pY_HlWD5rOwd0ByHTKcEWvCvRAekFMMmWuVYEZ_Dset310ZgBiWGkEliRv2_mjEhemtcdTEGPmjoDOdZjf-yI/s200/harbor-DSCN1496.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inner Harbor promenade</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">With that as a backdrop, we drive on my tour through the extremes
and in-betweens. But first we marvel at a gleaming city from the hill --
Federal Hill, which affords the "signature view" of Baltimore's still-growing
economic heart around the Inner Harbor.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">History is all around. I point to the right, where Fort
McHenry still stands sentinel around the Patapsco River's bend, and talk about the
Star-Spangled Banner. And over there, at about 2'clock across the harbor but
out of sight, is the restored President Street Station and Pratt Street where
Union soldiers summoned to Washington to defend the nation's capital in 1861 were
greeted by a mob of Southern-sympathizing attackers. At least a dozen people,
including three solders, were killed and many more injured in the Pratt Street
Riot, the first casualties of the Civil War.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Our vantage point on the hill was occupied thereafter by
Union troops, cannons aimed at the city center, to neutralize Baltimore for the
war's duration. With its location below the Mason-Dixon Line considered the
nation's geographic border between North and South, Baltimore then and still
could be viewed as the most northern city of the South or most southern city of
the North.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The view takes in the terraced apartments of the old,
transformed red-brick Scarlett Seed Co., which decades ago began the slow-to-develop
trend of condo real estate in Baltimore; the city's World Trade Center (which
has its own great viewpoint on the 27th floor); Harborplace, symbolic but
fading jewel of the Inner Harbor dream of the late mayor and governor William
Donald Schaefer; the Hyatt Hotel (also pushed by Schaefer and backed by a quasi-city
city development loan guarantee, at a time when the Holiday Inn was jokingly viewed
as the city's best hotel); the lighting towers and upper reaches of two major
sports stadiums; the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center; the
Columbus Center, failed as a tourist attraction but now where the University of
Maryland explores marine sciences; the quirky American Visionary Art Museum;
and finally the rowhouses that once could be bought for a song but now rise steeply
from the upper $200,000s.</span></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></i></h4>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Home to Nancy Pelosi and Frederick Douglass</span></b></i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">And that's just the start of the tour. We drive around the
harbor and east past the still-rising office and apartment buildings of pricey
Harbor East; rowhouse neighborhoods like Little Italy, where U.S. House Speaker
Nancy D'Alesandro Pelosi -- daughter and sister of city mayors "Big Tommy" and "Little Tommy" -- was born and
raised; little Dallas Street, where an early
developer of some still-standing rowhouses was Frederick Douglass (he lived for a time at 524 South Dallas); the historic
port neighborhood of Fells Point, where what is believed the oldest city
residence dates to the 1760s; and past the burgeoning waterfront homes, condos and marinas
of Canton.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We turn south on Clinton Street, still a working port area, where
a view across the water takes in Fort McHenry and its 15-star flag, and we pass
the berthed and Baltimore-built John Brown, one of two surviving Liberty Ships
that ferried troops overseas in World War II and lovingly restored by veterans.
Also of note, a nondescript and vacant old building that was the base of the
wiretap cops in David Simon's HBO series "The Wire." (Sadly, many
people think of the Baltimore in that great series as <i>Baltimore </i>when its depiction of the drug culture, police good and
bad, dying industry, poverty-mired schools and neighborhoods, racial politics
and compromised news is fiction derived from just a part of the city's many realities.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We head uphill on Clinton Street to higher ground, the
neighborhood of Highlandtown (or as locals might say, "Hollantown"). Here we
are squarely in the economic middle ground, a mix of gentrification, hispanic
newcomers, shop-lined commercial arteries, and the old Patterson movie house
reborn as the Creative Alliance arts center, of which wife Bonnie and I are
members. Often, we take visitors inside to view its current gallery displays, and
occasionally encounter one of the half-dozen artists who have residency there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We drive a short way up East Avenue from the arts center and
turn left two blocks to a place of history -- the eastern end of sprawling Patterson
Park, an area once called Hampstead Hill that was part of the dug-in defensive
line where Baltimore's 1814 defenders halted the British land advance into the
city. It is hallowed ground, and also affords a view from the east of the
2019 skyline.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yKvc4CujUrXjbXQK3dEb8_xegExkYbXAv7LJoINf6jqgNjXbkyQlsei6bTEIrT6AtwEYZ-1-1CYYNm-Cc_ER1ESYphGIN_a9ppo8oUczq16BMLjmF2AlT5zTIpITs1DqFvP3KCDqrH8/s1600/IMG_7204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yKvc4CujUrXjbXQK3dEb8_xegExkYbXAv7LJoINf6jqgNjXbkyQlsei6bTEIrT6AtwEYZ-1-1CYYNm-Cc_ER1ESYphGIN_a9ppo8oUczq16BMLjmF2AlT5zTIpITs1DqFvP3KCDqrH8/s320/IMG_7204.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johns Hopkins Hospital dome</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">We reach Baltimore Street and drive around the park's northern
perimeter, then left on Patterson Park Avenue two blocks for a visit to its
landmark "pagoda" -- an Asian-looking architectural wonder dating to
the 1890s, originally called the Observatory and vantage point for viewing
ships entering the harbor that were key to city commerce. (It is open to
visitors on Sundays -- noon to 6 -- and special occasions.)</span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Then we head west, making a few turns to drive past the
Collington Avenue rowhouses where my late mother grew up in the 1920s. Late in
her life, I drove her there to marvel at how one of the houses (her father lost
one for tax debt, then rented the other two doors away) had been enlarged, restored
and was for sale at a price approaching $400,000. Three large bedrooms, each
with a whirlpool bath and fireplace, and central air among the features in a house where she and
some of her 11 full, half- and step-siblings had lived. (In the heat of summer,
they slept in the cooler environs of the park.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The next target is Broadway, driving north past Johns Hopkins Hospital's growing complex and its two oldest buildings --
Hopkins being one of the world's finest medical institutions and, with the
university campus several miles away and various other operations, Baltimore's
biggest employer.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BrMDeJwDQBMmRgGxUjW3C5yo4eNUnnV24JyrBUnYUXUOD8qXLHgCGSDlX0G0SkYJY8gqGU4Esiv31ZGDRkoscEOG6PA582rz82y1Ox5QFopCQ4Pmu1laR7SPaqliIQ_ltdPJhAco9VA/s1600/JUN_3965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="971" data-original-width="1458" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-BrMDeJwDQBMmRgGxUjW3C5yo4eNUnnV24JyrBUnYUXUOD8qXLHgCGSDlX0G0SkYJY8gqGU4Esiv31ZGDRkoscEOG6PA582rz82y1Ox5QFopCQ4Pmu1laR7SPaqliIQ_ltdPJhAco9VA/s320/JUN_3965.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Brewery towers over Gay Street corridor ghost town.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Echoes of 1968 on Gay Street</span></b></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">So enough of the great stuff. We turn right on Gay Street, a
diagonal artery heading northeasterly and spine of many distressed streets. And
we talk about its history mostly as a black neighborhood in the 20th Century
and one of several focal points in the rioting and destruction sparked by the
1968 assassination of the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and years of economic
deprivation. This is always part of the tour, and increasingly in recent years,
many of the decayed houses and burned-out buildings have been leveled and given
way to grassy vacant lots. There is now a senior center, and across the street a restored
landmark -- the spooky, towering, long vacant 1877 American Brewery building now home to a
foundation focused on job development for the poor.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">About 22 years ago, I took newly-arrived Baltimore Sun
publisher Mike Waller and a couple of other newspaper executives through this
neighborhood -- then far worse than today -- and was asked what I would do to
address its problems. My response: "A fleet of bulldozers and a really
good city planner."</span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The clearing at the top of Gay Street has come at a much
slower pace, but turn around, look back toward the city center and imagine
creation of a planned, mixed-income neighborhood overlooking that skyline, perhaps
with a limited light rail link, shopping, small businesses. But for now, the
land goes begging a vision.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaY7w0mWL3K6VfHUFkwRbk97cRoSrBZjAl_IJcpDn_GMZMaFV8H94gmkoUF5SNOOEFhjMV9Ql3xWAY6B3wMPtO_KmdSx3d_rMF9coObGlh7mSf6vXS7pDFK24qx6SaRH744p4_bhKQmUM/s1600/love-MAY_0400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1400" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaY7w0mWL3K6VfHUFkwRbk97cRoSrBZjAl_IJcpDn_GMZMaFV8H94gmkoUF5SNOOEFhjMV9Ql3xWAY6B3wMPtO_KmdSx3d_rMF9coObGlh7mSf6vXS7pDFK24qx6SaRH744p4_bhKQmUM/s320/love-MAY_0400.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mural artist Michael Owen offered love to Baltimore.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">We reach North Avenue -- among the city's longest east-west
thoroughfares, and once its northern boundary, and stop to view a large mural
painted on a yellow wall by our friend Michael Owen (a former CA resident
artist). It is one of 20 of various sizes around Baltimore, with a one-word
message spelled out in the form of finger-shadow letters: LOVE. The city, Owen
noted, needed to be surrounded by love. And now it is.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We've been out and about for more than two hours at this
point, and seen a lot of good -- and some bad -- of Baltimore. But there's a
lot more ground to cover, and lunch, so my tour unfortunately bypasses numerous
residential neighborhoods running for miles along the Belair and Harford roads
corridors.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">My alma mater: "City Forever"<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIM4jE2u0zzzt2H5J8lLMG1TpAj7ig-nPOBdrQNkkfwUbZ7oS4Fdhi-7ZVj9pZzxfIKvAPzx1UFBAvfAqObvbpEts4PtLxB0T7FB9Q4GcWQb2D95HtpUEmA5lY4acBdsLgP5Aowpz6Ymo/s1600/city-college.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1419" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIM4jE2u0zzzt2H5J8lLMG1TpAj7ig-nPOBdrQNkkfwUbZ7oS4Fdhi-7ZVj9pZzxfIKvAPzx1UFBAvfAqObvbpEts4PtLxB0T7FB9Q4GcWQb2D95HtpUEmA5lY4acBdsLgP5Aowpz6Ymo/s200/city-college.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baltimore City College</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></b></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Sometimes I take my visitors across North Avenue, other
times toward 33rd street -- the latter for a drive-by of my alma mater,
Baltimore City College (Class of '63), third-oldest public high school in the
nation and, since the late 1920s, occupying a gothic castle-like building on a
hill whose tower, owing to its geographic location, is the highest vantage
point in the city. By tradition, students graduating are afforded a stroll up
some 180 steps to the tower roof, past graffiti left by predecessors and the chalky
poop of countless pigeons. For many, the school song remains fresh in memory: "City Forever."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">33rd Street also was the site of Memorial Stadium,
home of the Baltimore Colts, briefly the Ravens, and from 1954 through 1991 the Orioles. Now called Stadium
Place, the tract includes mixed-income and senior housing, a nursing center and
a YMCA.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9MopDuMIfBZYIy1eMSFsTGUS7KxSArGU2IbJSTO2B-vdXUs7UkPDbiW5JR9_0iaZpIfldaJVcSQIe3uugN58fuCReE07pKkTk3VVVTX7hG2w40UWUHoc3CnIRcUzKUgTfPdSw7C9Bc0/s1600/z-JUN_0839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1400" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9MopDuMIfBZYIy1eMSFsTGUS7KxSArGU2IbJSTO2B-vdXUs7UkPDbiW5JR9_0iaZpIfldaJVcSQIe3uugN58fuCReE07pKkTk3VVVTX7hG2w40UWUHoc3CnIRcUzKUgTfPdSw7C9Bc0/s320/z-JUN_0839.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Murals in Greenmount West </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We reach Greenmount Avenue -- its name drawn from the historic
cemetery of rich and well-connected white folks dating back nearly two
centuries, Green Mount, near its southern end, and where as time allows we stop
to see the graves of Sun founder Arunah Shepherdson Abell, wealthy businessman
and university benefactor Johns Hopkins, and Abraham Lincoln assassin John
Wilkes Booth (whose believed plot, in the essence of Baltimore irony, is adorned with Lincoln
pennies).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Across the street is Greenmount West, a neighborhood brought
back from the edge of collapse and many houses restored as an arts community. Walls
along area streets feature many jaw-dropping murals. An abandoned clothing
factory formerly noted for ghostly rows of dust-covered suits was reborn as a
school of design, and a corner building offers apartments to artists with
limited income.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Charles Villagers<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAGgZM5X31ZwLZkp6Yv6iEmWcXvrBec-KSjL0bWFT_hZiYXgZUSGT3155NtC5teKNZTFIO9VtqNmBg8j9TY6XJBg3K2SP8MTzBQCvgNkx1PmV5urzpqN74NpPdLrY6hU5lBqUZtPqjWwc/s1600/z-JUN_0841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="1400" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAGgZM5X31ZwLZkp6Yv6iEmWcXvrBec-KSjL0bWFT_hZiYXgZUSGT3155NtC5teKNZTFIO9VtqNmBg8j9TY6XJBg3K2SP8MTzBQCvgNkx1PmV5urzpqN74NpPdLrY6hU5lBqUZtPqjWwc/s200/z-JUN_0841.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Village rowhouses. where we first met....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
</span></b></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We turn up Calvert Street, past large rowhouses dating
from the early 1900s. (I first met Bonnie as neighbors in apartments at 2935 North
Calvert in 1966, and owned 2937 in the late 1970s -- blowing through two marriages
and living with an assortment of zany friends who helped fill its eight
bedrooms. Sadly the house, known as Toad Hall, was recently turned into
apartments, most of its original features stripped away.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The neighborhood was
originally called Peabody Heights, but renamed Charles Village largely through the
influence of its late resident and Baltimore Evening Sun copy editor Grace
Darin, who published a newsletter called The Charles Villager in the 1960s. The
name caught on, and the neighborhood two miles north of the city center -- anchored
by such neighbors as Johns Hopkins' Homewood academic campus, the Baltimore Museum of
Art, and Union Memorial Hospital -- has remained popular. I bought my house
there for $35,000 around 1975, and sold it in 1980 for $64,000. Comparable
properties now run close to $350,000.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDkBqD0rmG2WWPZgXKMeYlQrw5GSdRMDN_WXjkb_80AeQrBtgykFpIgftEuvpzborE2SdC1UT9ifFmEnG9Lx3TQ3_seFe6TAdWIsvkVtdkj-rPH8TrDvmRZWTp_rJgtrM_QSxUNYtcLY/s1600/z-APR_8053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="934" data-original-width="1400" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDkBqD0rmG2WWPZgXKMeYlQrw5GSdRMDN_WXjkb_80AeQrBtgykFpIgftEuvpzborE2SdC1UT9ifFmEnG9Lx3TQ3_seFe6TAdWIsvkVtdkj-rPH8TrDvmRZWTp_rJgtrM_QSxUNYtcLY/s320/z-APR_8053.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sherwood Gardens in bloom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">Heading north we turn left on University Parkway and a quick
right on St. Paul Street into the Guilford neighborhood, Baltimore's most stately. Prices here are
generally begin in the $600,000s -- very tempting, except for the annual tax bill that
would ensue. Baltimore has the highest property tax rate in Maryland, and
buying a house in Guilford would result in a levy far upwards of $10,000
a year. But maybe you get what you pay for. Like the large Sherwood Gardens as
the neighborhood focal point, where thousands of blooming tulips greet springtime
visitors and colorful from spring into the fall. It's the place for engagement
and baby photos, picnics, kids learning to climb a tree, and reading a book in the shade of a lazy afternoon. Crime is rare, but it can happen anywhere.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A window on the universe</span></b></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Back to University Parkway, we turn left on San Martin
Drive. It curves through an edge of the Hopkins campus above Stony Run and past the Steven
Muller Building -- named for a former university president and home to the
Space Telescope Institute. This is the land base of the Hubble, astronomers' window
into unfathomable reaches of the universe. Most people in Baltimore likely have
no idea it's here.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">A few right turns and a left take us to the quirky realm
of Hampden, a working-class neighborhood increasingly occupied and influenced
by people in the arts. The heart is the commercial length of 36th Street (and
often my tour stops for lunch there at the Hon Cafe on "The Avenue"), but from Thanksgiving to
New Year's the place to see is 34th Street and the city's most famous display
of lights and unusual decorations (like a hubcap tree, a flock of pink
lawn flamingos, crabs and the one-eyed mascot of cheap Natty Boh beer). <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxRdCj8GzNgSQTQldhKtX8laB-swpYMkt3tF4TvhAihLIVQFjXUbGcA0U3HdD5YHW4aUL7rg_nnbVaBG4LFrzyxxnkEwTvrEDGZZrWWD3g6kFTn6oe6Ag2Xkpok7_x_h0_NsChocNn-ks/s1600/z-DEC_0595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxRdCj8GzNgSQTQldhKtX8laB-swpYMkt3tF4TvhAihLIVQFjXUbGcA0U3HdD5YHW4aUL7rg_nnbVaBG4LFrzyxxnkEwTvrEDGZZrWWD3g6kFTn6oe6Ag2Xkpok7_x_h0_NsChocNn-ks/s200/z-DEC_0595.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miracle on 34th Street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">On Falls Road, at the western end of 36th, the shops include
Atomic Books -- a quirky store with unusual offerings including local arts
'zines, comics, and Baltimoreana. It is also the mailing address for the local filmmaker
and cultural maverick John Waters, and thus a place to find autographed copies
of his books and movies.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The tour goes north on Falls Road, named for and parallel to
the Jones Falls stream running through a green valley from the north and emptying
into the harbor, then westward on Northern Parkway across the valley, past
Sinai Hospital (which moved here around 1960 from my eastside birthplace near
the Hopkins medical complex), and Pimlico Race Course, home for more than a
century to the Preakness Stakes, second jewel in American thoroughbred racing's
Triple Crown. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>My neighborhood, a then-and-now </b></i></span></h3>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Once a haven of the very middle class, the Northwest
Baltimore neighborhoods along Park Heights Avenue and Reisterstown Road are
troubled these days. So we weave through side streets below Pimlico, exploring and
talking about what was then, and seeing what is now -- rowhouses mostly in
various states of decay, some occupied, some empty and crumbling. It has been
changing in recent years, with increasing numbers of unsalvageable
properties now bare grass lots.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">An apartment complex that was the scene of
multiple murders and drug arrests was condemned and demolished. A row that
included a 1930s house with a wooden Star of David decorating the end of a
lower roof is gone. The row of storefront buildings on Park Heights that
included Harry Der's laundry, where I took and picked up my father's shirts,
and the candy store where I spent my pennies, is just a memory.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">But still standing sentinel over the neighborhood is the
substantial stone presence of St. Ambrose Roman Catholic Church. Its parochial
school was closed as the archdiocese reduced the size of its education system.
And a priest no longer there started and lent its name to a low-income housing
aid program that still exists decades later. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-Kb9BOsCt0ngDJcam8c8N-MD2yW4BNFX_zjc1T80mLjTmku1QiQge_wBi-iufZuTE5nNH7tZ6AUpGcOA8wJh3TFGyAHAC3L6c2d9TVq7JfdH6Yp5ALyg2Tb17FzKqqFWzkyaqgI2D0o/s1600/school59-APR_3294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="934" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-Kb9BOsCt0ngDJcam8c8N-MD2yW4BNFX_zjc1T80mLjTmku1QiQge_wBi-iufZuTE5nNH7tZ6AUpGcOA8wJh3TFGyAHAC3L6c2d9TVq7JfdH6Yp5ALyg2Tb17FzKqqFWzkyaqgI2D0o/s320/school59-APR_3294.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friend Stacey Patton, interviewing residents at Alcott Place</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Heading south on either artery takes us past mostly
challenged streets to Keyworth Avenue, where my Louisa May Alcott School No. 59
survives -- after years of vacancy, the 1910-vintage building
was lovingly turned into subsidized senior housing called Alcott Place nearly three decades ago. Like the
neighborhood, its residents are nearly all African-American, and their building
is immaculate. Each classroom was turned into an efficiency apartment. An empty
space under the roof was turned into a fourth-floor community and computer
center. In the midst of streets of Third-Worldly decay and chaos, Alcott Place is
a haven of decent and safe housing and community where people watch out for
each other.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">I have stopped there several times, including two years ago
when I brought along the well-known Baltimore writer and radio personality Gilbert
Sandler -- a graduate there 24 years before me. We had the same first-grade
teacher, both growing up in a world very different from the decay and mayhem
that afflicts the rough parts of the city. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TeslzY6q_bg33bmEyYDmtzul44-AUZTmc8GSv1pZWm3Ho_ouuVJHkFc8vsPdGSVfLhXmIoXuqGTKEWxJv0zCUd1Ex_KpsmS713eHwsMIuVNyUMGfHeRmuA1Gd0QuPJowt0nvlkwZL-8/s1600/z-DSCN8950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1227" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TeslzY6q_bg33bmEyYDmtzul44-AUZTmc8GSv1pZWm3Ho_ouuVJHkFc8vsPdGSVfLhXmIoXuqGTKEWxJv0zCUd1Ex_KpsmS713eHwsMIuVNyUMGfHeRmuA1Gd0QuPJowt0nvlkwZL-8/s200/z-DSCN8950.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where I come from, 3424 Royce Ave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">We drove by our respective childhood homes -- mine below St. Ambrose at 3424 Royce
Avenue now a rental property, but many of the 1940s rowhouses still
owner-occupied. Once entirely populated by white families, and now nearly all African-American, the block-long street is in better shape than most others in
the area.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Gilbert was reluctant about visiting his street, Cottage Avenue, a mile to
the south off Park Heights, fearing danger. I assured him we were fine, safe at
least in daylight. We turned a corner at Ulman Avenue, and there on the sidewalk was a memorial
to a murder victim, shot to death on that spot a few nights earlier. We drove
past the house where he was born and raised; it was vacant and boarded. That
distressed him. His voice choked a little as he pointed to the sidewalk.
"I had a lemonade stand there." (Gilbert died in December, at age 95,
but his archived Baltimore stories still air Friday mornings on WYPR-FM.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>The worst shore, and the Reagan connection</b></i> </span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Here in lower Park Heights is the conception of Baltimore
underlying -- along with a measure of racism -- Donald Trump's condemnation of my
city. Here in this neighborhood, where
low-income people, mostly in rental housing under-tended by absentee landlords,
do their best to survive in an America on the worst shore of the economic gulf.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">But on the tour, we are just passing through. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Park Heights merges with Reisterstown Road at the
northwestern edge of massive Druid Hill Park at a junction called Park Circle
-- and nearby into the 1950s was Carlin's amusement park, swimming pool and ice
rink. Part of its site became home to Baltimore's only black-owned Hospital,
Provident, which eventually vanished in a state-ordered merger with another
inner-city hospital.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Overlooking the intersection is the Dietz & Watson meat-packaging plant, successor here to the relocated home of the black-owned Parks Sausage Co. on land designated as an economic "enterprise zone" by the Ronald Reagan administration in 1982 and visited by the president. The White House, according to news reports, noted the area was home to about 44,000 mostly poor people.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">On a side street blocks away is the little Towanda
neighborhood playfield and its wading pool, scenes of some earliest memories.
The houses around it are in disarray, neglect and abandonment having left them
looking post-apocalyptic.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96Dvr3G91TQPPmMhq7qkHArHJNNViyMYK4Fh9OrGrqSTUKBG1Au4NlvoyOoSQoT95MFzDCebazAUYe4fo64yhMuEhUlSxY8M30xdr5NCajzpyp2JN-lXpTQB2ceS3cHTAI7vLcd-VFgU/s1600/z-DSCN8951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="1464" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96Dvr3G91TQPPmMhq7qkHArHJNNViyMYK4Fh9OrGrqSTUKBG1Au4NlvoyOoSQoT95MFzDCebazAUYe4fo64yhMuEhUlSxY8M30xdr5NCajzpyp2JN-lXpTQB2ceS3cHTAI7vLcd-VFgU/s320/z-DSCN8951.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For sale on Towanda Ave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We continue south on Park Heights, past Druid Hill (Droodle, many locals say) -- home to a botanical conservatory, the Maryland Zoo, picnic
grounds, ballfields and frisbee golf. (As the president was unleashing his weekend
tweet storm of "people living in hell in Baltimore," hundreds were spread out in happy picnic parties and family gatherings across the
park.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Druid Hill's old reservoir is currently a mess, under
reconstruction -- its fountain gone. Half a century ago, the body of a missing
woman had been found inside that fountain, which was surrounded by water... still one of my favorite unsolved Baltimore
mysteries, and an inspiration underlying a just-published novel by former
newspaper colleague and friend Laura Lippman, "Lady in the Lake."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Further south is Mondawmin, built in the 1950s as one of the nation's first urban
shopping malls, where Reisterstown Road meets Liberty Heights Avenue -- the
latter name immortalized in the title of one of filmmaker and local native Barry
Levinson's Baltimore movies ("Liberty Heights," "Diner,"
"Avalon" and "Tin Men"). The shopping center has seen
better days, and it was the ignition point of the 2015 rioting that followed
the funeral of Freddie Gray -- whose neck apparently was broken during a ride
in a police van after his arrest by city police.</span></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>Bill Clinton was here </b></i></span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">We head northwesterly on Liberty Heights, about half a mile past
the campus of Baltimore City Community College (another alma mater, from when
it was called Baltimore Junior College), and a right turn into yet another
Baltimore neighborhood -- Ashburton. Once largely upscale Jewish in population,
and now largely black, I offer it as more proof that race cannot define
community. Much of Ashburton features owner-occupied, well-maintained homes.
Baltimore's first elected black mayor, Kurt Schmoke, former dean of the Howard
University law school and now president of the University of Baltimore, lived
in this community. President Bill Clinton visited Schmoke's house for a
fundraising gathering.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Then we cross Liberty Heights to turn up Hilton Street, then
onto Gwynns Falls Parkway to Windsor Hills. Just before I turn right onto
Windsor Mill Road, I ask my passengers to close their eyes for 10 seconds.
Because I am going to make the city disappear. We have reached the roadway through
Leakin and Gwynns Falls parks -- the closest Baltimore has to wilderness.
Leakin Park has a bad reputation as a dumping ground for the bodies of murder
victims. Once upon a time, it was well-deserved. But you rarely hear of such
acts these days. Killers don't seem to bother anymore. Their victims are left
where they fall. In "The Wire," some are disposed of in vacant
houses. Maybe that happens, too. Rarely.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Windsor Mill leads to Forest Park Avenue, and the entrance
to another surprise -- the neighborhood of Dickeyville, whose mill origins date
to the late 1700s and which features old houses covered by historic covenants
restricting changes. The entrance is from quaintly-named Wetheredsville Road,
which was severed by flooding in a 1970s storm and, by local preference, not
reopened for through traffic. The community looks every bit like a Vermont
village, hard to imagine as part of Baltimore.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Back down Forest Park, briefly crossing the city-Baltimore
County border, we reach the city end of Security Boulevard. A right turn would
take you toward the national headquarters of the Social Security Administration,
one of Maryland's largest employers. Its computers are so enormous that the
complex has emergency generators to take strain off the regional power grid
during extreme weather crises.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">But we turn left, back into the city past tidy brick rowhouses on the edge of a neighborhood called Ten Hills. (I haven't counted, but am guessing
that's about right.) Then we reach the western end of Edmondson Avenue before
turning into the most charming section of Ten Hills -- almost a mini-Guilford with
ornate cottages and brick homes, big lawns and curving lanes that belie the common
conception of West Baltimore as a slum.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">On the other side, at the end of Ten Hills, it's downhill to
Frederick Avenue and southerly back toward the city center. Often I turn right
on Marydell Road, the Irvington neighborhood street where the late Sun reporter
and famed New York Times columnist Russell Baker moved with his family as a
child and eloquently described in his Pulitzer-winning memoir, "Growing
Up." The family lived in the last house on the right, he told me,
remembering that its basement flooded during big storms.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">It's not far from Maiden Choice Run, which flooded so badly during
tropical storm Agnes in 1972 that residents of basement apartments along
Frederick Avenue had to flee for their lives. The danger has prompted extensive
flood-control measures along the stream.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Continuing along Frederick Avenue, we
pass numerous challenged neighborhoods, much like lower Park Heights -- some of
the city's most dangerous and decayed -- in a vast stretch between this
southwestern artery and the mid-line spine of North Avenue. The route spills into Pratt Street, past a fading mural, concealed by tree growth, of idealized postcard-style images of city life and scenery including children black and white playing basketball together. And near the western
edge of downtown we come upon the great Mount Clare roundhouse of the old B&O -- near the
birthplace of American railroading and centerpiece of a railroad museum. It's
possible to turn into the parking lot and drive around a few of the historic
locomotives.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFRhdI3zZaZfhsLD9LirVdL8TtI7flyDVtnkkcuSWHYi0GdCKZ0Q3YLcLgIkxQL6I82BhjpmRSwSRI0Bb_JxfNFXb-bx0S-weNLDno2mPJadrxYVKQb1maqBENn3nkThiJRydxK4hztA/s1600/Z-IMG_0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1000" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFRhdI3zZaZfhsLD9LirVdL8TtI7flyDVtnkkcuSWHYi0GdCKZ0Q3YLcLgIkxQL6I82BhjpmRSwSRI0Bb_JxfNFXb-bx0S-weNLDno2mPJadrxYVKQb1maqBENn3nkThiJRydxK4hztA/s320/Z-IMG_0073.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A scene at Troy Staton's annual block party</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>A safety zone that briefly wasn't </b></i></span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Up nearby Arlington Avenue is Hollins Market -- one of half
a dozen public markets where stalls are rented by merchants selling fresh food
and other items. And cater-corner at Arlington and Hollins Street is the New
Beginnings barbershop, whose owner Troy Staton tends to the hair needs of his
chiefly African-American clientele and oversees his own art gallery there. Too
many people in the inner city have never been exposed to art in museums, he
says -- so he brings art to them. (His personal collection of African-American
art was displayed in a gallery show at the suburban Stevenson University.) He
also partners with institutions that provide free health screenings, and the
shop plays host to community meetings often moderated by his son Rashad, the
family's first college graduate as an alumnus of the city's historically black Morgan State University. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Troy holds an annual free street party there, supported by
donors and corporate sponsors and serving up a meal to as many as 200 people.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">It seems a safety zone. But there have been scary moments --
like a Friday afternoon several years ago when a young man caught up in the
drug trade was shot to death on Troy's corner. And last Halloween, while he was
cutting hair, a still-unknown masked youth walked inside with a gun and opened
fire. His customer sustained a foot wound, and Troy was hit three times in his
neck. Luckily, all graze wounds -- an inch or two difference, and he could have
been killed. God spared him, Troy said, because he still has good work to do. The
barbershop shooting became front-page news.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Unfortunately, news skews
toward the bad. The tour is broader. We talk about history, the prejudicial
steering of housing patterns enforced by government and economic interests (as
recounted in my friend Antero Pietila's book "Not in My Neighborhood"),
the selective investment in neighborhood redevelopment and shunning of others,
the sociological challenges of urban America and disintegration of family
structures.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">And after about six hours and 55 miles of driving, the tour
is done.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">tRant</span></b></i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">I've been urged for years to write about the Ettlin Tour.
But it was the ill-conceived and racist rant by the man who would be King Donny
the First, targeting Congressman Elijah Cummings and Baltimore, that finally
made me do it. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Let's remember his words. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Trump called Cummings "a brutal bully, shouting and
screaming at the great men & women of Border Patrol about conditions at the
Southern Border, when actually his Baltimore district is FAR WORSE and more
dangerous. His district is considered the Worst in the USA."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Trump (maybe I'll start calling him tRant) also tweeted, "As proven last week during a
Congressional tour, the Border is clean, efficient & well run, just very
crowded. Cumming District is a disgusting, rat and rodent infested mess. If he
spent more time in Baltimore, maybe he could help clean up this very dangerous
& filthy place."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">He threatened to investigate the federal funds sent to
Cummings' district, and said that "no human being would want to live
there."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">I would.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">After 38 years planted in a suburb, I look at city houses
listed for sale -- even toured one across the street from Druid Hill Park's
botanical conservatory last week. It was built in 1920, three-story blonde
brick, architecturally similar to my old house on Calvert Street, restored,
central air added, garage in back. But maybe it's a fantasy. This one had more
stairs than our legs could deal with much longer, and the adjoining house in
the row is rotting at the seams. Two blocks away, there's a street where of
late there's been gunfire, murder and utility poles adorned with limp memorial balloons
and rain-soaked teddy bears.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">It's priced at $400,000, with a historical preservation
benefit freezing the property tax at rock bottom for a decade. Won't be us, here
on one of Baltimore's urban frontiers. But someone out there is going to buy
it. The city has problems, for sure -- and plenty of promise.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-size: small;">(Blogger David M. Ettlin retired in 2007 after 40 years in
local news at the Baltimore Sun, and made a cameo appearance playing himself in
three episodes of "The Wire." His wife, Bonnie J. Schupp, whose pictures grace this post, was
raised in Northeast Baltimore, taught language arts in the city and Anne
Arundel County, owned a camera shop in Severna Park and wrote a newspaper
column on photography for the old Baltimore Evening Sun. They have lived in suburban
Pasadena since 1981.)</span></i></div>
<i><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></i><br />
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</span><br />
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-67626218804419455472019-04-17T15:52:00.000-04:002019-04-17T16:36:02.233-04:00On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 5<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgws1FaVvTHUO5uvQRSqjH-d6KSvoXcWuB6o3joQ7vRqk4vprqZ0DFq5jXLAOVeKXAYFulxBpfiZoU27cxWW2fSnqOn0VyEZ0IGar-dqi2-QS6gIymzKuU-E-EwDgKRJ5OEhdGK_VsjvZ4/s1600/IMG_3201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgws1FaVvTHUO5uvQRSqjH-d6KSvoXcWuB6o3joQ7vRqk4vprqZ0DFq5jXLAOVeKXAYFulxBpfiZoU27cxWW2fSnqOn0VyEZ0IGar-dqi2-QS6gIymzKuU-E-EwDgKRJ5OEhdGK_VsjvZ4/s400/IMG_3201.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nature's peep show at Kalalau Overlook.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Luxury, adventures, detours</span></h2>
<br />
<h2>
</h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">on island of Kauai...</span></h2>
<h2>
</h2>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">and on the trip home</span></h2>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i> </i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i> Lava Lava happy hour was also for the birds</i></h3>
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Reluctantly we bid farewell to Maui just after noon on a
sunny Thursday, and by 1 p.m. we are stepping out into the sunshine of Kauai --
the last destination of our three-island adventure. Lihu'e airport sits along
the island's eastern coast just off the main highway, and about six miles south
of our lodging... the longest at five nights, and most expensive. Blame high
season in the dead of winter for shelling out $1,478.49.</div>
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Reluctantly, though, we also admit that luxury is kind of nice.</div>
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The Kauai Shores Hotel looks at first glance like an average
but large motel, with its multilevel buildings forming a rectangle around an open space about half the size of a football field that includes a pool and heated whirlpool too large to call a hot tub.</div>
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In the main
building's spacious open-air lobby, the extraordinarily pleasant front desk
lady offers welcoming shell necklaces and the card keys to various rooms for
inspection; we settle on paying for a plushy slight upgrade, ground level with
a teeny patio and a view of bushes along a fence below a unit in the
neighboring resort.</div>
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But what's not to like about a comfortable king bed and
cocoanutty soaps, shampoos and lotions. With the patio sliding door open, there
is a pleasant breeze and the sound of Pacific waves crashing onto the beach,
about 50 yards away.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFcjwHDVOxFg7b7AWLsxFxli1lAMrTNMnJm2OJ9LfioXrP7q5CIy3JKNCIq30BoHJiYEId3poDaT2IhX_vqRYMT91rL6vPXmk398u7DAOiQwroI-q8s5740ep8zKut3lsAz6iUfaZG9KI/s1600/eZy+Watermark_09-02-2019_05-47-50PM.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFcjwHDVOxFg7b7AWLsxFxli1lAMrTNMnJm2OJ9LfioXrP7q5CIy3JKNCIq30BoHJiYEId3poDaT2IhX_vqRYMT91rL6vPXmk398u7DAOiQwroI-q8s5740ep8zKut3lsAz6iUfaZG9KI/s320/eZy+Watermark_09-02-2019_05-47-50PM.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach Birds fly near the Lava Lava Club.</td></tr>
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The back side of the main building houses the Lava Lava Club
restaurant and bar, and we have the first of several happy hour feasts at its
tables on and next to the sandy beach... watching flocks of local birds
watching us and hoping for their fair share of crumbs. To keep them busy, the
staff tosses bird seed around the nearby coconut trees. Generous pork sliders,
tacos and bowls of chips and mango salsa are about $3 each... add a glass of
wine, a tip, and this late<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>lunch or
early dinner runs about 20 bucks</div>
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<br /></div>
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In the evening, meal and drink prices go up
-- but there's live entertainment most nights, usually a Hawaiian singer/guitarist and a
hula dancer. Tacky? Maybe. But we're here five nights, and get to unwind
at least a little from the more intense explorations of the Big Island and
Maui.</div>
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Kauai is called the "garden island," but February
is not the best month for flowers. It is, however, one of 12 months in which
rain can be a daily experience. At the mountain heights in the largely unpopulated
center of the island, rainfall can total 400 inches in a year. </div>
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There are basically three directions for travel from our
beachfront base -- to the north, south and west -- <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and they produced three very different
experiences.</div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<i> A lighthouse and a dead end</i></h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNTXVQXdSB4WHVctnZUPcWq8rVhO28JnAS_OVPBh9S4_FYaGs5h9gXHB1fwt0TsRB6WEitUMCddqER861tg9XHIR7nXyCOzrjI5cCWmnle4Xtu4-UxE221rY7u7I71Bcm_MAF6-6ueJg/s1600/z-208_2139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNTXVQXdSB4WHVctnZUPcWq8rVhO28JnAS_OVPBh9S4_FYaGs5h9gXHB1fwt0TsRB6WEitUMCddqER861tg9XHIR7nXyCOzrjI5cCWmnle4Xtu4-UxE221rY7u7I71Bcm_MAF6-6ueJg/s320/z-208_2139.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inouye Lighthouse presides over Kauai's northern coast.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
North, and turning westward: The highlight was Kilauea Point
National Wildlife Refuge, where the 52-foot Daniel K. Inouye Lighthouse
overlooks north shore waves crashing into lava-stone cliffs of a dormant volcano
and slopes occupied by an assortment of seabirds. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our annual national parks seniors pass --
purchased on the Big Island after we forgot to pack our lifetime passes -- came
in handy, saving the $10 admission price. And since the pass covers a party of
four, we invited an elderly couple from Minnesota to be our party guests... at
least in passing the entrance gate.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The lighthouse was built in 1913, its construction materials
brought to the site by ships and unloaded by crane. I'd guess that these days, materials
would be flown in by helicopter and, despite that convenience and modern
technology, construction would take at least twice as long. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Further west along the coastal highway is Princeville, which
sounds nice and seems to have a great coastal location on the map. If<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>you like expensive shopping and a golf course
resort environment, this is right up your fairway. But not ours. We drove along
a few of its streets around the golf course, and got back on the highway. </div>
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<br /></div>
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But we didn't get as far as we had hoped. Maybe we should
have done more homework. The highway ended after the little, artsy town of
Hanalei -- closed to through traffic because of a landslide last spring, a
local told us. Judging by the dotted notation on the AAA map, the inaccessible
stretch of road is one of the most scenic on Kauai -- beaches, gardens and a
coastal wilderness state park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You just
can't get there from here without a helicopter or a boat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHovBye_NdQveM1unge1BOIS0gMFKeWuUcGz8RvXKP4i2jFwu8SV9nJipkaE7J8N2x72l4wtRDEFvHjPRK0WBYx6_L8bUIw6DbtYk-I0bd4qX5ZsZneykM5i8S6r7qfglwW090meeWLaU/s1600/52350882_10218419901947760_5159756517213208576_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHovBye_NdQveM1unge1BOIS0gMFKeWuUcGz8RvXKP4i2jFwu8SV9nJipkaE7J8N2x72l4wtRDEFvHjPRK0WBYx6_L8bUIw6DbtYk-I0bd4qX5ZsZneykM5i8S6r7qfglwW090meeWLaU/s200/52350882_10218419901947760_5159756517213208576_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My cell photo of raw McNuggets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There is, at least, a McDonald's near the bridge at Hanalei,
where I took a quick iPhone picture of a feral chicken strutting near the
outdoor tables. I posted it on Facebook immediately, with the caption
"McNuggets on the loose." </div>
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<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<i>Nature's peep show</i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
South and west: The island of Kauai has a grand canyon --
not as enormous as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">the </i>Grand Canyon
in Arizona, but still quite spectacular. The drive there takes just over an
hour along the connected main thoroughfares around the island -- Routes 56
(Kuhio Highway) and 50 (Kaumualii Highway) -- to reach the scenic and slower
Route 550 (Waimea Canyon Drive).</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBwckDEskLKx0FJG4TleY49UtyTljpa8nJbJ3MzK_I9-zgX6UC-B1N4D6BjNUI5xEJrbT6qcQJKdDtLAi8aE4lixGxlusrm17vsBG-urKu_XJypCyztKLA7qk4HFNYLW2thMLpRa1mZc/s1600/z-208_2029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBwckDEskLKx0FJG4TleY49UtyTljpa8nJbJ3MzK_I9-zgX6UC-B1N4D6BjNUI5xEJrbT6qcQJKdDtLAi8aE4lixGxlusrm17vsBG-urKu_XJypCyztKLA7qk4HFNYLW2thMLpRa1mZc/s320/z-208_2029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of Waimea Canyon, with a distant waterfall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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As you might have guessed, the road follows the rim of
Waimea Canyon, a gorge<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that in some
sections looks like a smaller Grand Canyon. There are lookout spots along the
way, and even an old black lava flow with a gentle stream to explore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And at the very end of the road, beyond the
boundary of Waimea Canyon State Park, we reach the best sight of all at Kalalau
Lookout. And it is full of clouds blowing in from the ocean.</div>
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<br /></div>
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So imagine folks walking from the parking lot to the viewing
area, and finding a vision of blowing shades of gray. A little drizzle. Then a
hint of sunshine beyond the gray, and the clouds turning lighter, almost like a
diaphanous gown offering a tease of some spectacular beauty beyond. And then
magically, the gown opens in the front, and the people begin shouting to
companions who had seemingly given up, turned back toward the cars below:</div>
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<br /></div>
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"Ooooh! Ooooh! Quick, quick! There it is, come quick!
Ooooh! Ooooh!..."</div>
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<br /></div>
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The open gown revealed views of a mountainous cliff, a
gorge, and the stunning Kalalau Beach with waves rippling toward the sand of
Kauai's northwestern coast. And then more clouds blew in from the Pacific, and
the view was gone. Then it was back. Then it was gone.</div>
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"It's nature's Peep Show," I declared.
"Somebody put in another quarter!"</div>
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<br /></div>
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It was mesmerizing, magically translucent, the blowing gown
between us and the descending sun of late afternoon, with awesome beauty in
between and more than a thousand feet below. </div>
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<i>Roadkill to remember</i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We didn't have time to explore much of South Kauai, so the
next day we had to go back -- passing along the right side of the highway the
unusual sight of a roadkill pig. In addition to roaming chickens and goats,
Kauai has plenty of feral pigs, and this one was on its side, one hoof in
sudden death giving an upraised gesture to swine heaven.</div>
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Our first stop was the quirky Spouting Horn, named for a
hole in a lava rock outcropping that gives voice to crashing waves as a burst
of air precedes a burst of water. The spouting horn, so to speak. A little like
Yellowstone's Old Faithful, but noisier, not as high and a lot more frequent.
And you can see it coming with the roll of the incoming Pacific waves. </div>
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<br /></div>
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A little further west, past one of many small state parks
along the coast, just past a small airport, we found our way to the salt ponds
at Puolo Point.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sQ2DQtW6W1qF3Gs1LRJKEkoD7QMdho2-H8Zeq5uKh58LIfV66ejQc2SHHjoef1Vc7Epliy8UaQy_pyAzpNEQLhpU-YYBwIhDU7IXnjsbYC36nfrzUjU_fhnjWPGuyaMzh-nRy-2XCng/s1600/z-208_2128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sQ2DQtW6W1qF3Gs1LRJKEkoD7QMdho2-H8Zeq5uKh58LIfV66ejQc2SHHjoef1Vc7Epliy8UaQy_pyAzpNEQLhpU-YYBwIhDU7IXnjsbYC36nfrzUjU_fhnjWPGuyaMzh-nRy-2XCng/s320/z-208_2128.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salt farm pools on Kauai.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In case you never
noticed, ocean water is salty. And here at the salt ponds is where generations
of Hawaiians have been "farming" salt. The ponds are privately owned
by local families -- a field of burial plot-size holes where their owners drill
a few feet through beach sand, extract ocean water and then leave it in the pools
to evaporate. What's left as the water dries away is Hawaiian salt.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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The process was explained to us by one of the farmers -- an
elderly chap from, of all places, Shamokin, Pa. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He's sort of a naturalized Hawaiian, having
married into one of the salt pond families a few decades ago. His bride sat in
their pickup truck while he was checking on their salt pools.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Heading back, we pass the pig again -- this time someone
with a dark sense of humor (of which I have at times been accused) had attached
a helium party balloon to the upraised hoof. I should have turned around and
gone back for a picture, but we were in heavier traffic and fighting the clock
in hopes of another happy hour feast. So Mr. or Ms. Piggy will just have to
live on in memory. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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We missed happy hour by 20 minutes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Westward, into the storm</i></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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We took a Sunday drive in search of waterfalls, heading west
from the resort despite a dicey forecast of high winds and occasional
downpours. After all, what could go wrong? Lots of rain should fuel lots of
waterfalls. It'll be pretty.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The first hint of trouble was a detour -- southbound Kuhio
Highway backed up for miles, but we found a small inland route in the direction
of Wailua Falls and a botanical park. The road was not in the greatest shape,
with lots of potholes and fallen tree branches to maneuver around. We reached
the parking area for the botanical park, and it was mostly under water and
surrounded by mushy and muddy turf. And the rain started coming down in
torrents.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cTKDOlUD3-mfjvMwNPAx6_vH-EovMY5DBZ4HFjqh3rMqM-xfDBUILpcusJwgBYR7qEEQDRZRMU6XgEc4S8se25fnMPHL3k_4WPHFWKC0wspUBMlVLgxclfvOtfPhU04tKUW2Fq5J90A/s1600/eZy+Watermark_10-02-2019_03-07-48PM.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cTKDOlUD3-mfjvMwNPAx6_vH-EovMY5DBZ4HFjqh3rMqM-xfDBUILpcusJwgBYR7qEEQDRZRMU6XgEc4S8se25fnMPHL3k_4WPHFWKC0wspUBMlVLgxclfvOtfPhU04tKUW2Fq5J90A/s200/eZy+Watermark_10-02-2019_03-07-48PM.PNG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only road out, blocked.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So we turned back the way we came, only to discover that the
only passable road getting in was now blocked by a fallen tree and downed power lines. And
there was no way out. Not the best of tourist moments, really. But we were
impressed by the speed of the local utility crew, which arrived within about 20
minutes and spent the next hour dealing with power lines and tree limbs. A
local resident trying to get out returned home to retrieve his chainsaw, and
added some volunteer labor to speed up the work. And then, on the way back to
the main highway, we found a viewing spot for a distant waterfall and, toward
the island's eastern coast, a rainbow. </div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdFlP4ryxpLuV6VH-0XE6ipRtLm4Eg4zDi3aiF9l7ki-ryamkieuInDUtX6tjAaFhI_Hz5-DRkFzSid7kpV96qIZm24GJV-51mgqTyEpO9L7UPiXjz674RMvSiBg5cXkMtAsEi3l9CkMo/s1600/IMG_3308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdFlP4ryxpLuV6VH-0XE6ipRtLm4Eg4zDi3aiF9l7ki-ryamkieuInDUtX6tjAaFhI_Hz5-DRkFzSid7kpV96qIZm24GJV-51mgqTyEpO9L7UPiXjz674RMvSiBg5cXkMtAsEi3l9CkMo/s200/IMG_3308.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainbow in view toward eastern coast.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
(For the record, Mt. Waialeale, in the range near the
island's center, is described as "the wettest spot on earth" with
average annual rainfall of 460 inches. At least it doesn't snow there, although
the storms that crossed Kauai brought snow that closed the mountain road to
Maui's Haleakala and wind gusts clocked at close to 200 mph at the highest
peaks on the Big Island.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our adventure the next day, retracing the main roads
southward, was the McBryde national tropical botanical garden, where $30 buys a
bus ride into a huge preserve of fauna -- especially trees. Oddly, we learn,
most of the trees and plants in Hawaii are non-native, but perhaps not so
surprising as just about anything will take root on the islands.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd5lIbgSG7G-_wA_9SawOYQiknkVJSdGjv8V6hun0kDOPwxGjz3_-IeL51QrKkaPFfM0gvUgbxEk_KOMK_vUhhHnaNEyPMQiEWYCrJlgIdZSjHHqrsIm8ghT7yDCog8ifJHjZ2r2Xhug/s1600/z-210_2310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd5lIbgSG7G-_wA_9SawOYQiknkVJSdGjv8V6hun0kDOPwxGjz3_-IeL51QrKkaPFfM0gvUgbxEk_KOMK_vUhhHnaNEyPMQiEWYCrJlgIdZSjHHqrsIm8ghT7yDCog8ifJHjZ2r2Xhug/s320/z-210_2310.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breadfruit tree planted at McBryde in honor of Michelle Obama.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We wandered on foot just over an hour, and as rain began
falling caught the bus back to the visitor center. Unfortunately, we did not
have time -- and maybe not the weather -- to cough up a few more dollars<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to check out the other tour at the adjoining
property, Allerton Garden, which includes some huge specimens the brochure describes as "Jurassic Park trees," and the beachfront mansion of the Chicago
millionaire bachelor who purchased 83 acres of the valley 80 years ago.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<i>Coffee break</i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were leaving Kauai late Tuesday afternoon, flying back to
the Big Island for two more nights and then going home. With a hotel checkout
at noon, we had enough time for one more adventure -- and, at least for me,
some free coffee.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back to the southern coast, perhaps half an hour from the
airport, is the headquarters and visitor center of Kauai Coffee, which offers
both guided and self-guided tours and tasting of more than a dozen variations
... dark, mild, flavored. We had time for the self-guided stroll through a
garden of experimental coffee trees, and past displays showing what happens
after beans are harvested.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFkNuBVtE6zp03t3dsQrdWoBRTiuIO1BLtavoktu1kOWaH1LMGpYrkzEMX2iZjMNfouosYtuWw0W6XNflubKSUYUPJYvvB7fbF0ntyCg00QL34UC27o5fi0KaGZeOb_x8WHdBYXwqjD4/s1600/z-212_2320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaFkNuBVtE6zp03t3dsQrdWoBRTiuIO1BLtavoktu1kOWaH1LMGpYrkzEMX2iZjMNfouosYtuWw0W6XNflubKSUYUPJYvvB7fbF0ntyCg00QL34UC27o5fi0KaGZeOb_x8WHdBYXwqjD4/s200/z-212_2320.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ummmm... free coffee!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Never would have
guessed that one tree, once a year, produces just about a pound of coffee beans.
Fortunately, Kauai Coffee has a lot of trees in a coffee forest that stretches
for miles.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
I sampled several varieties
(Bonnie, alas, is not a coffee drinker but at least likes the smell), a couple
of which are carried back home at the local Safeway. Hard to believe the
regular price in Pasadena, Maryland, for a 10-ounce bag, all the way from
Kauai, is just $8.99. (Confession from Mr. Cheap: I bought one at Safeway that
was on sale for $6.99, and even had a coupon attached that knocked off another
dollar.) Prices vary for the various coffees at the visitor center gift shop, but
the basic commercial blends there cost about $11.99 for a 10-ounce bag.</div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<i><b>Last stop in Hawaii</b></i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
By late afternoon, bags checked,
we were boarding our final Hawaiian Air flight, heading back to the Big Island.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Our lodging this time was our only
Air BnB of the trip, in the back bedroom of a large and lovely home of a most
hospitable gay couple. One of our hosts offered to help tote our baggage up the
steps to our porch, which offered a distant view of the ocean beyond a long
green hillside dotted with other homes. We also took a stroll around the
property, admiring a variety of fruit trees. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
As we learned on the trip, just
about anything will grow in this environment... and the garden included banana,
orange, lime, avacado, papaya and guava trees. Our hosts offered a jar of
guava preserves to take home.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Over wine on the main porch, we
had a lengthy chat with our hosts sharing our life stories. They've been
together about 20 years -- one of them previously having had children with his
former wife, before deciding who he was, and the lifestyle he was really meant
for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> (She got to keep their old house... now worth more than a million bucks.)</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOFF5RlRq4zmtYrChVGpahrj9mKqhcM_AbBJGcA8US1xqs2cK9ayKh9qbUrdnbbFOBraGowFCEwbkI_wNQZDVZTcD-MnhAhcy7kly3PQ0FdhkDif38_3T9Fg61RQiGS3mBoNpJB1_BH0/s1600/52532750_10155865852992111_4893376911733948416_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOFF5RlRq4zmtYrChVGpahrj9mKqhcM_AbBJGcA8US1xqs2cK9ayKh9qbUrdnbbFOBraGowFCEwbkI_wNQZDVZTcD-MnhAhcy7kly3PQ0FdhkDif38_3T9Fg61RQiGS3mBoNpJB1_BH0/s320/52532750_10155865852992111_4893376911733948416_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A couple of tourists at the Waipio overlook.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
We had time on the Big Island for one
more big adventure, driving to the northernmost section at the urging of our
Baltimore friend Margie who described the scenery there as the most beautiful
she had ever experienced.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
It meant re-tracing some of the
drive from our first explorations of the island to reach the overlooks of the
Waipio and Pololu valleys and coast -- vantage points separated by a drive of
more than an hour from one cliff to the other. It was incredibly beautiful. But
the best? That's hard to say after two weeks of Hawaii.</div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<i><b>Best-laid plans go awry</b></i></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
The three-flight journey home <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> to begin about noon that Thursday
from KOA. Emphasis on the word <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Always check for email messages
before heading to the airport. We didn't. We dropped off the rental car a
little after 10 a.m. That was mistake number two.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
The Alaska Airlines plane that was to
begin our 17-hour journey -- to Sacramento, with transfers to San Diego and
then Baltimore -- was still on the ground in California because of weather
delays. The only alternative in<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>getting
home was a cockamamie route flying at 4 p.m. to Portland, Oregon, with a
five-hour layover for a dawn flight to Seattle, and another hour on the ground
before the flight home to BWI. But even that didn't quite work out as
scheduled.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
So after six hours on the ground
at the outdoor KOA air terminal, we tried to sleep in a nearly deserted airport
in Oregon -- despite public address announcements echoing through the corridors
every 30 minutes from the city police chief urging us to report unattended
baggage or suspicious behavior. Every concession shop was closed for the night,
but I managed to read the various newspapers left in piles outside the locked
shop near our boarding gate.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was hungry and thought about stealing a
$1.50 banana from the bowl at the nearby closed Starbucks stand, but that would
be suspicious behavior -- not that there was anyone who would see it. Just the
security cameras above the counter doubtless beaming the scenes from the empty
airport to the very desk of that annoying police chief.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
The flight out of Portland,
despite being one of the first of the day, was an hour late. We had to run to
the gate in Seattle, where our last flight of the journey had its last call for
boarding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Our luggage could not run as fast.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
All credit to Alaska Airlines, however
-- 24 hours after our arrival at the KOA terminal on the Big Island, we were on
the tarmac at BWI. And when our stuffed suitcases did not emerge on the
carousel, an airline employee tapped our receipt numbers into his electronic
device and said they were in Los Angeles.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
He bestowed upon us a credit of
$75 for our next Alaska Airlines adventure, and the suitcases were delivered to our
doorstep a day later -- intact, and the contents including jars of guava jam
and passion fruit jelly unbroken.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-71819688608311713892019-02-25T17:40:00.000-05:002019-02-25T17:40:12.954-05:00On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 4<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlsD2VT6nF6-FN4qh65CdtpAvppe3CxjWjKZs0PAuorxsbnHpHWU0TEQsmy7d4lKlBs6INrW1fP8JEfe6v0fgitryeXr0Kzwm1qXYDZkukODz_ZtD0pPr2McU4y7J9Q3qVrJQG-YEQZ6g/s1600/IMG_3086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlsD2VT6nF6-FN4qh65CdtpAvppe3CxjWjKZs0PAuorxsbnHpHWU0TEQsmy7d4lKlBs6INrW1fP8JEfe6v0fgitryeXr0Kzwm1qXYDZkukODz_ZtD0pPr2McU4y7J9Q3qVrJQG-YEQZ6g/s400/IMG_3086.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haleakala volcano summit at sunset (Photos by Bonnie Schupp)</td></tr>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">From sea to summit,</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></b><h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">the Island of Maui</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></b><h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">was totally wowie!</span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>Super start to a super visit</i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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We flew from the Big Island to Maui on Super Bowl Sunday,
and I wasn't expecting to see much of the big game -- especially since game
time in Hawaii's time zone was in mid-afternoon.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Our first stop, for two nights, was a stay with fellow
members of the international peace organization Servas, in which Bonnie and I
have been members of the U.S. chapter for our nearly four decades together.
Founded by idealists in 1949, and recognized by the United Nations, Servas International
has some 15,000 member households in more than 100 nations and provides an
organizational link for traveler members from across much of the planet to meet
and stay for free with host members for a minimum of two nights. The goal is to
foster friendships across borders and encourage peace on a personal basis...
and allows for hosts to travel within their own countries as well.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Hawaii has just two host families, and only one of them was
accepting visitors -- which in a popular tourist destination like Maui can
overwhelm them with requests. So we felt fortunate to get an affirmative
response from Barry and Renee, whose unusually-designed home is located on a
hillside near the town of Kihei with a distant view of the Pacific Ocean. Barry
built much of the structure, and they reside on its upper floor whose
centerpiece is a huge round living room under a domed ceiling.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Renee arranged to meet us at a restaurant in the town of
Haiku, where she was having lunch with a group of Friends (with a capital 'F')
after their Sunday morning Quaker meeting. Barry was heading to what I
anticipated as a small community arts center where the football game between
the New England Patriots and Los Angeles Rams was to be shown on a large
screen. We all headed there after lunch, and small it wasn't.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEB1sWn3s4lkiHYLlLOp01QtMxQH2eoKCxH6INhBd3FN7DSu7qJKU7JHVIA2T4SBXodzaM4fIHpVV0oZnHlFDXM-odGHTa65QS-klUvNX498_l6xKLf0AhasUM-jzlVOCtU1phq04mR0/s1600/DEC_1747.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEB1sWn3s4lkiHYLlLOp01QtMxQH2eoKCxH6INhBd3FN7DSu7qJKU7JHVIA2T4SBXodzaM4fIHpVV0oZnHlFDXM-odGHTa65QS-klUvNX498_l6xKLf0AhasUM-jzlVOCtU1phq04mR0/s200/DEC_1747.MOV" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halftime show, live</td></tr>
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Barry was watching the game inside a large, and plush, air-conditioned
movie theater, and I joined him while Bonnie and Renee headed to a center art
gallery to view an exhibit. At halftime, I went outside to find them and encountered
a crowd of hundreds seated at tables under an even-larger screen, and a
Hawaiian band performing live music under the muted projection of the show from
the football game venue in Atlanta. The outside crowd was a lot louder than the
insiders during the second-half action.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A snippet of action</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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As the Patriots finally took command of the low-scoring game
in the final minutes, Bonnie and I left ahead of the crowd to escape the packed
parking lot and find our hosts' home about half an hour away.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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We spent part
of the evening getting to know each other over a dinner of eggplant parmesan
prepared by Renee, and shared on their deck overlooking the hillside of homes down to the Pacific. (Our hosts are vegetarians... but we endured just fine!) Retirees
now, Renee and Barry first met two decades ago at the local university, where
he was a counselor and she had been hired to teach literature. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Renee and Barry</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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We made a quick drive to check out a monthly first-Sunday
sunset celebration on a beach close to 10 miles away. We enjoyed our first Maui
sunset from a wide strip of sand known as Big Beach, but never got to the
continuing revel on the almost-adjoining Little Beach. We could hear the distant
drumming, but getting there required a risky climb up a darkening dirt and lava
rock path to reach the beach on the other side of a steep divide. Some folks
were leaving, though, and as we walked back toward the parking area could not
help but notice their throwback attire so reminiscent of the Hippie era<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>of the early 1970s.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZv3nvNctwqMQOKPGOKpAumIXVHsGS-WRsQrp3BMd-nxyxxjjfNNo5aTZ6RdOeoMKKTaSNKhWbQzW11jcroJspTU7gbs3bAaAmoy9i7giwyajPnJNawigjiZun9QLqMZxF34TKgJJY1c/s1600/z-203_1769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="957" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZv3nvNctwqMQOKPGOKpAumIXVHsGS-WRsQrp3BMd-nxyxxjjfNNo5aTZ6RdOeoMKKTaSNKhWbQzW11jcroJspTU7gbs3bAaAmoy9i7giwyajPnJNawigjiZun9QLqMZxF34TKgJJY1c/s320/z-203_1769.jpg" width="190" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chirpers near the deck: Java sparrows and a lovebird</td></tr>
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The next morning, we had more time to enjoy our surroundings
-- the property of close to an acre full of tropical foliage and fruit trees,
and the chirping of dozens of birds, mostly java sparrows, attracted by the
bountiful feeders hanging next to the upper porch deck... barely out of reach of their interested cat and indifferent dog. Gary and Renee used to
live downstairs, and built the upper area for parents now gone. So the lower
area is rented, and a separate cottage is home to their son, his partner and
her young son.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The parents had bought the property many years ago,
obviously a good investment. A neighboring house was on the market... its
asking price recently reduced, but still more than $1.5 million.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Later in the day, we
drove further south beyond Big Beach and past several pricey oceanfront resorts,
to the end of oceanside Makena Road in Wailea, to check out the historic
Keawala'i Congregational Church, built of lava stone and wood in 1856 -- which
replaced a grass structure built two decades earlier. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAcmgI6Vfd5HrKv9T_dKXTNVPKtpVfPw8ebCyKB84bM51Dv0-P4Nmu1kWHi1vTc6iPKgUf9Ww2TDEiir0M-aC4Da-soojpddFXg3iRftP9tJCR3xCjaofHslBE1UO55ElLeQuwgK6tSs/s1600/z-204_1832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAcmgI6Vfd5HrKv9T_dKXTNVPKtpVfPw8ebCyKB84bM51Dv0-P4Nmu1kWHi1vTc6iPKgUf9Ww2TDEiir0M-aC4Da-soojpddFXg3iRftP9tJCR3xCjaofHslBE1UO55ElLeQuwgK6tSs/s200/z-204_1832.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
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The church was locked, but a gentleman doing paperwork in
its office cottage -- the church music director -- opened its doors so we could
get inside. The adjoining cemetery was fascinating -- many of the stones
bearing photographs of the graves' occupants. Some of the remaining white blossoms
of otherwise winter-bare plumeria trees had fluttered down and adorned the
gravesites.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwvm8J7rPRciIGHdgNCjxRgW4xIlXLEAbRKrc41ksNNK82P4DJTt36nDZQ5wdsOEi1lqt-0FdF93GvZEVkUNTzX_yNmBl31I0Gsjr9aZSihSLnjIGmC76qzgGsKBvyesN80vCOEQIuUU/s1600/z-204_1833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1053" data-original-width="1500" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwvm8J7rPRciIGHdgNCjxRgW4xIlXLEAbRKrc41ksNNK82P4DJTt36nDZQ5wdsOEi1lqt-0FdF93GvZEVkUNTzX_yNmBl31I0Gsjr9aZSihSLnjIGmC76qzgGsKBvyesN80vCOEQIuUU/s200/z-204_1833.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After photo session on the beach, a quickie near the church.</td></tr>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A sign warns visitors
that beach access is not allowed from the church grounds, but about 150 yards
further at the end of the road <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is a small,
scenic public beach popular for weddings and romantic photo shoots... one of
which had just ended.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8pW_Zkq5M5Z91SwQl0FjSo3QIlrJ3rkSj5j19k5ffFrzbyV_r8sO61gd_bFs4KcWUmCfkg55LvK1yezkd32KXVMF0mSNwrTuXgqFyPEHbmJNl89dCqy0JMI_sg1rmzVLiGANr5v7Gn8c/s1600/IMG_3022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8pW_Zkq5M5Z91SwQl0FjSo3QIlrJ3rkSj5j19k5ffFrzbyV_r8sO61gd_bFs4KcWUmCfkg55LvK1yezkd32KXVMF0mSNwrTuXgqFyPEHbmJNl89dCqy0JMI_sg1rmzVLiGANr5v7Gn8c/s200/IMG_3022.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricky drive at wildlife refuge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, along the road between the airport and Kihei, attracted our interest. But the migratory season seemed to have ended, and there was more mud to see and trying to avoid in walking around its ponds and salt marshes than birds to admire. Even the narrow road looked tricky, but fortunately the water flowing across it was only about hubcap deep.</div>
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<br /></div>
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So many beaches, so little time... naturally, our next stop would be another, at Ho'okipa Beach State Park -- one we had passed the day before on the road to Haiku, where windsurfers play in the waves. But the best thing we found there was a couple of sunbathers near the end of the sand strip, a giant sea turtle and an endangered Hawaiian monk seal. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunbathers at Ho'okipa beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The lifeguard on duty had put out signs saying the seal was not sick or dead, only sleeping, and not to disturb, and used yellow warning tape to cordon off a wide perimeter around the animals.<br />
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That evening, we joined Renee for a long sunset walk along
the curving paths of a sprawling luxury oceanfront condo, and treated for a
carryout dinner for us to bring home and share on our last night together.</div>
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<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>Blowing in the (chilly) wind</i></h3>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We moved that Tuesday afternoon to the Maui Seaside Hotel a
short distance from the airport, which served as a comfortable base camp for two
days of exploration of Maui highlights -- with emphasis on the high.</div>
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We drove on Wednesday many miles up a switchback road,
hoping, despite increasing cloudiness, to see sunset from the 10,025-foot summit
of the long-dormant Haleakala volcano. Bonnie, thanks to the recommendation last
year of our friend Kathleen Rutledge in northeastern Colorado, had brought
along her bottle of chlorophyll concentrate -- drinking a dose of 18 drops in
small bottle of water to improve respiration in the oxygen-thinner air at high
altitudes.</div>
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About 8,500 feet up, at a roadside viewpoint, I took a cell phone
picture of Bonnie standing almost level with the tops of fluffy white clouds.
It is one thing to be flying at and above cloud tops in an airplane, but
standing there seems magical. (And a little chilly -- and about to get
chillier.)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkMY_R5dNLhqmTKfZujkIFMnhQnzXz-qhKfCPtCQErJoDH8u3tCmLw2ydHAFNgjvkz6cj6NK8WUaf9vuiKLSN1ZlK_clwHtGnKJYoF2gEAYDy8RPnQJzUThRNW0thThfLstyPYewgVz4/s1600/51503028_10218396019790721_2546844915661275136_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkMY_R5dNLhqmTKfZujkIFMnhQnzXz-qhKfCPtCQErJoDH8u3tCmLw2ydHAFNgjvkz6cj6NK8WUaf9vuiKLSN1ZlK_clwHtGnKJYoF2gEAYDy8RPnQJzUThRNW0thThfLstyPYewgVz4/s320/51503028_10218396019790721_2546844915661275136_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disclaimer: I took this one.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We reached the parking lot perhaps 50 feet below the summit
of Haleakala about 5:30 p.m., nearly an hour before sunset. We had sweatshirts,
and I had my all-weather Baltimore Business Journal jacket, but with
temperatures dropping toward the mid-40s and a brisk breeze, they were not
enough to stand near the summit's edge for long -- and Bonnie realized she had
left her down vest in her suitcase. I was offering up my jacket, and to stay
in the warm car while Bonnie took photos up top, when a couple from northern
Virginia who had parked in the next space came to the rescue. The husband-wife
team of serious amateur photographers had brought a car trunk full of camera
equipment and sweatshirts, and had extra hoodies to lend.</div>
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Haleakala is most famous among photographers for pictures at
sunrise, so much so that the National Park Service requires reservations to
enter the gates in the early hours before 7 a.m. Our new friends had
reservations for sunrise a week earlier and never went, their hopes dampened by
an all-day rain. I had asked the ranger at the admission gate about the
likelihood of actually seeing sunset, and she allowed as how the sun always
sets. (But seeing it can still be subject to the whims of weather.) </div>
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The Haleakala crater is enormous, larger than any we'd seen on the Big Island, with multiple lava cones that have fortunately behaved since about the year 1790.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite the wandering clouds, sunset up there turned out spectacularly fine. Photographers and gawkers lined the edge of the summit as the sun dropped to the horizon, and an
orange-reddish glow commandeered the sky.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then came the amusement -- one of the funniest moments
witnessed on any of our journeys. Minutes after the 6:25 p.m. sunset, an
airport cab SUV arrived at the parking lot, and about half a dozen Chinese
tourists jumped out and ran up the summit path carrying cameras. I can only imagine
the cab fare they paid for the winding, hours-long ride to the top, only to just miss the most dramatic moments. </div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
(Worth noting, there was a sunset up there nearly a week
later that no one got to witness. A storm system blew across the Hawaiian
islands, and access to the road up Haleakala was closed -- because of snow and
ice. Hey, this is Hawaii!)</div>
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We drove slowly down the volcano mountain in deepening
darkness, but there were plenty of taillights to lead the way after the
curtains came down on the solar spectacle.</div>
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<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>The Road to Hana... and beyond</i></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i> </i>On our final full day in Maui, we took on the challenge of
the Road to Hana. There's a reason the "road" is named along with the
town" -- because it's more about getting there than being there.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I didn't count them all, having been busy steering our rented
Nissan Sentra, but an online Maui tours site says the road's 52 miles has 617
hairpin curves and 59 one-lane bridges. And throughout the slow-speed drive
(the limit is 25 mph, with cautions and slower speeds for the never-ending
curves) are distractions like roadside waterfalls, ocean views, parks and
trails... and vendors offering the likes of barbeque, rice and veggies served
on a banana leaf, and marvelous loaves of banana bread.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7Sc4WDH3PjhsgBbH77VoqtQG48a71cwI0PM2x5RA4Xgni2xipZdN9ysetcv9OrI9j2GngXpTeW2HfwOsuqk-HW7H1AD0R7LOtPfW3d_PvIHv05FUZd7wpGL7Fo6r0H3wTt3eFYrr5l4/s1600/z-205_1964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="473" data-original-width="1600" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7Sc4WDH3PjhsgBbH77VoqtQG48a71cwI0PM2x5RA4Xgni2xipZdN9ysetcv9OrI9j2GngXpTeW2HfwOsuqk-HW7H1AD0R7LOtPfW3d_PvIHv05FUZd7wpGL7Fo6r0H3wTt3eFYrr5l4/s320/z-205_1964.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana leaf of plenty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At a glance, you figure it's just 52 miles and you can make
it there and back in a couple of hours. It took us six hours to reach Hana, and
the tough decision on whether to head back the same way or continue around the
back side of Haleakala -- a route that includes an eight-mile stretch of rugged
dirt, gravel and choppy asphalt pavement. And even the good sections aren't all
that good.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2bdCSZf4aBpd66ZcpXcXUKcODwutpxXwVI-o0HRoEodn4VhBBcTwe7JtZ2o-vzzhtDsi5sDqdiHGrPd_bDsxu2mQ-PuXLaO_XV_kT7iduRH_RP7mDAfJ0bf8ycoo8i8bhgkX50myVbY/s1600/IMG_3147.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2bdCSZf4aBpd66ZcpXcXUKcODwutpxXwVI-o0HRoEodn4VhBBcTwe7JtZ2o-vzzhtDsi5sDqdiHGrPd_bDsxu2mQ-PuXLaO_XV_kT7iduRH_RP7mDAfJ0bf8ycoo8i8bhgkX50myVbY/s320/IMG_3147.MOV" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough road beyond Hana</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, of course we kept on going. As we've long observed on
drives along rough (and even nonexistent) roads, "That's what rental cars
are for." </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We got back to the seaside hotel well after dark, the
adventure having taken a bit more than nine hours to complete. We missed lots
of sights along the way... including hiking trails, some of them quite muddy --
and we missed finding the grave of Charles Lindbergh. (Have to wonder, when he
visited here in life, to this place that brought him peace, whether he drove or flew.)</div>
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It was time to wash and dry a load of clothing in the hotel laundry
room -- a bargain at $1.50 for each machine, although the job needed two wash loads and two rounds of the dryer -- and repack for a noontime hop to our third island of the journey.</div>
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<i><b>Next chapter teaser: Almost blown away on Kauai</b></i></h3>
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-69308566169154276882019-02-10T04:28:00.000-05:002019-02-10T04:32:07.645-05:00On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 3<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaj7pb1p96kWuQX6z2w-TFIMdR8PMy6WkDv-dsTFm6F2YbAsQkD7EPXlpE5XERAhPetaOKuX5-Pma31JR7JVy2OKU3UsS2iiUmecb_P0hD7uCVQQ4_RjuQk6VORTbhlPlHEyZ_tFUCb8/s1600/IMG_2947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="889" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaj7pb1p96kWuQX6z2w-TFIMdR8PMy6WkDv-dsTFm6F2YbAsQkD7EPXlpE5XERAhPetaOKuX5-Pma31JR7JVy2OKU3UsS2iiUmecb_P0hD7uCVQQ4_RjuQk6VORTbhlPlHEyZ_tFUCb8/s400/IMG_2947.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A volcano crater, blue sky and clouds on the Big Island (Bonnie Schupp photos)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Tops no longer blowing,</span></span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Big Island volcanoes</span></span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">back in visitor business</span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>Lava leaves its mark... for a very long time</b></i></span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When you think Hawaii and volcano in the same sentence these
days, the immediate image that comes to mind is last year’s eruption of Kilauea
that consumed nearby communities, forced some 2,000 residents to flee and sent
ash and fumes skyward as molten lava flowed into the sea. It put a damper on
local tourism, even giving Bonnie and me second thoughts about the where and
when of visiting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But it’s been calm there for months, and volcano country was
the goal of our longest drive around the Big Island from our hotel in Kona on the
last full day of our initial stay there – heading south, then east and
northward along Route 11 for about 100 mostly scenic miles to the national park
entrance. (Views of the Pacific Ocean are a constant distraction, of course.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had to stop at one beach, drawn in by the roadway sign – for
the Punalu’u black sand beach. It is the result of countless centuries of ocean
waves pounding lava rock into submission. It felt like ordinary sand, and many
families were there enjoying the surf and sun. It is sand, but it just looks
odd.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqhnP_7jMst0b_VsW9j2u2gH44AJt8lgSojmcAQU2Ry6RglKFe_mm63klokI2ue6XRucOG771ooNTp7UW16KOESBbn3D0H5aZ9y9tDBuAAqfWp-_WX-8J7xbpJlSAiJ3f5ni2jeZJIMM/s1600/eZy+Watermark_02-02-2019_12-55-58PM.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqhnP_7jMst0b_VsW9j2u2gH44AJt8lgSojmcAQU2Ry6RglKFe_mm63klokI2ue6XRucOG771ooNTp7UW16KOESBbn3D0H5aZ9y9tDBuAAqfWp-_WX-8J7xbpJlSAiJ3f5ni2jeZJIMM/s320/eZy+Watermark_02-02-2019_12-55-58PM.PNG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RIP Jack memorial at black sand beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We found on the beach a memorial fashioned from lava rocks, with a
small smooth stone that had the word “happy” on one side, and RIP Jack on the
other. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps some of his ashes had
been left there as well. Who knows? But it was beautiful and eloquent for this
Jack, who must have loved this unique place.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
During the drive, it became apparent to us that we both had
forgotten to bring our lifetime senior park passes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Admission to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is $25, but the
nice ranger lady at the gate suggested buying an annual seniors pass for $20 –
saving us money there and, later, at National Park Service attractions on Maui
and Kauai.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw5WN8uXLZYQdC8iehuuUSTtuwD8MTiMVqmwnctKXnWPJ76VUshDbWvL8z21IxSo1Nr1Nzq5yg452IJPd4puQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
Half or more of the park remains closed in the wake of the May
eruption, but it still takes hours to explore open areas along the Chain of
Craters Road more than 20 miles down to the ocean – following the track of lava
flows from earlier eruptions looking like a sea of black rock or torn-up chunks
of asphalt. The craters vary in size and shape, and there’s even one featuring
echoes. Bonnie tried shouting, “I love you,” but the bounce-back a second later
was slight. “Not loud enough,” I bellowed in response, amusing a few of the
other tourists.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TEUVWJgZn7btOIq3Nirjsfwhyphenhyphen0xrUSKnKGUMxA3iYUQk2TTe0uctqBdw6sdDtIvqx80tbUNm7eXsaD8Fd4IUjkHFv6_6xC7hltY8tHxurD1DJxaKwWYxfM1_icn9A_D0yFoAAEN81N4/s1600/IMG_2953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TEUVWJgZn7btOIq3Nirjsfwhyphenhyphen0xrUSKnKGUMxA3iYUQk2TTe0uctqBdw6sdDtIvqx80tbUNm7eXsaD8Fd4IUjkHFv6_6xC7hltY8tHxurD1DJxaKwWYxfM1_icn9A_D0yFoAAEN81N4/s320/IMG_2953.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the crater road, where waves meet lava cliffs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the end of the road, Pacific waves crash beautifully against
the rock cliffs as visitors try to take selfies with the best background views,
including a lava arch. And one man was battling the wind trying to get a kite
airborne. Its shape seemed appropriate to our adventures on the Big Island – an
octopus.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rather than driving back the way we came, we navigated
further northward toward the town of Hilo and found dinner at a small Korean-American
restaurant. Bonnie had a rice dish and I had my favorite on unfamiliar culinary
turf: A hamburger. And it was pretty good. Then, in darkness, we drove for more
than an hour across the island on a middle route known as the Saddle Road – rising
across mountainous terrain, through mist, fog and rain, and back to sea level
at Kona… pretty much exhausted.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next morning took us back to the airport, returning our
upgraded and relatively luxurious “full size” Nissan Altima and flying to our
second island – Maui.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Up next: More beaches,
scary roads and a better volcano!</b></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-83717239520820677772019-02-02T03:55:00.002-05:002019-02-02T14:08:13.750-05:00On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie and I prepare to meet the octopuses.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Octopus encounter</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">an eerie experience</span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">for visitors to Kona</span></h2>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<i>Tentacular cuddles and a cephalapodian prankster</i></h3>
<br />
<br />
It
was our friend Fred's fault, really -- he was here about a week ago, on
a vacation trip from Annapolis, and said we'd really like a cephalopod
experience, specifically the Kanaloa Octopus Farm on the western tip of
Kona near the laid-back international airport.<br />
<br />
The
tickets are mostly sold online, at $30 per adult, to reserve a spot for
a very odd farm tour offered just twice a day, at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
You drive down Kaiminani Road, and hang a right on Makako Bay Drive,
past a scenic ocean beach and a line of industrial-looking buildings
that are part of <span style="letter-spacing: 0.0em;">the Hawai'i Ocean Science and Technology Park</span>.<br />
<br />
Past
the abalone farm, past the lobster farm, through the gate and left to a
small row of parking spots next to a structure that could pass for the
entrance to a circus sideshow. But it is really the gift shop, and a crowd
of close to 30 people, including several young children, slowly
assembles there for the afternoon tour led by a budding young marine
biologist named Marki.<br />
<br />
We decided not to buy any of
the adorable stuffed animal octopuses or other merchandise, including
the $20 octopus farm coffee mug... guaranteed to be a conversation
piece.<br />
<br />
Marki leads us past three aquarium tanks
inhabitated by a few pretty fish, but no apparent cephalopoids, to a
large enclosure lined with a double row of tubs... most of them
containing one adult octopus, and most of the critters hiding in a
little domed rock "cave" at the bottom. They have toys floating on the
surface, like rubber duckies, a rubber elephant, a red fishing line
float.<br />
<br />
After washing hands to remove the likes of dirt,
lotions or other contaminants, visitors are instructed to gently wiggle
fingers in the water to spark the curiosity of the octopuses, each of
which has a name posted on the side of its tank. And after a few minutes
they glided out of their caves and extended sucker-lined tentacles
toward the surface... and the fingers. And as they feel, or attach
suckers to pull at the fingers, you get to play with them.<br />
<br />
Several
of the children squealed nervously, even pulling back their hands, at
first contact. Because these boneless creatures are rather eerie. And
you get a sense that these octopuses are both self-aware, and
intelligent in their interactions.<br />
<br />
Marki said anyone
with an underwater camera could use it in the tub, but cautioned that
the octopuses would likely try to grab it and try their tentacles at
taking selfies. A tiny GoPro camera was a big hit, and the animal's'
attempt to wrest it away from a father's hand doubtless made for a
thrilling video.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZHRphWLfouLjCQPsFtV5aRR-WGT9e7AQzTuREOB9l2AsWfCM__A82eprBphZBt_oc8iRSn4G4T23Hw5YVLNHRzAHgFhWNMFSTNRt3FY7ommc53-TxdJBm3auquHU2iIJ1DwivDMXgbbD/s1600/51223947_10155841437977111_2652490292120256512_n.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZHRphWLfouLjCQPsFtV5aRR-WGT9e7AQzTuREOB9l2AsWfCM__A82eprBphZBt_oc8iRSn4G4T23Hw5YVLNHRzAHgFhWNMFSTNRt3FY7ommc53-TxdJBm3auquHU2iIJ1DwivDMXgbbD/s320/51223947_10155841437977111_2652490292120256512_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My playful pal Monty changes color from spotted brown to white. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I
cannot remember the name of my first octopus. But when it tired of my
fingers, I turned to an adjacent tank and met the rambunctious Monty. He
was a tease, tugging at my fingers, then gliding back, and repeating
the game, and as I made a little close eye contact he expelled a burst
of water like firing an internal water gun.<br />
<br />
He missed. And then he tried again, and missed again.<br />
<br />
My favorite, though, was the littler Lily, who seemed to enjoy tentacular cudding with my left hand (see video below).<br />
<br />
<br />
There was also an opportunity to feed them, and the creatures seem to sense after 15 minutes of play with their visitors that chow time has arrived. They pluck bits of crab from fingertips and use their tentacles to place them in their beak-like mouth.<br />
<br />
Octopuses
are found on the ocean shelf off the Kona coast, and the farm specimens
mostly were caught and brought in by commercial fishing crews. But most
octopuses caught at sea do not fare as well, ending up on dinner plates.
Many folks consider them a delicacy.<br />
<br />
The money from
tour tickets, and sales in the gift shop, support the octopus farm's
experimental efforts at breeding the creatures in captivity, and trying
-- so far without success -- to raise them from hatchlings so tiny that they become distinguishable only under magnification. Marki sucked up more than a dozen from a
tank using an eye-dropper, and put them in a tiny pool on a slide under a
microscope. The teeny swimmers looked like squid.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately,
Marki said, the farm has been unable to get beyond 12 days of survival
before these infant octopuses perish. And there's a lot of death here. A
female produces hundreds of thousands of eggs.<br />
<br />
Getting
them fertilized is another issue -- because a female that is
unimpressed by an introduced male octopus might well severely injure it
or grab off a tentacle. (They can grow new ones, fortunately, but the
cephalopodian sex life is rather perilous.)<br />
<br />
The farm is
awaiting the arrival of new equipment that will circulate the cold
ocean water pumped in from the nearby seabed -- a necessity at keeping
the babes alive. And eventually, if the scientific hurdles are overcome,
there's hope of creating a sustainable supply of octopuses for the
market instead of taking them in large numbers from the sea.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw5L_d9KaB6oUWN5or3Pv2Ftoo15mVOAf3pe3izJ3T-s7f2CAFiLjdkBctjIVbtcahjwf5oRcjb09f6wNwREw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />
Meanwhile,
Monty, Lily and friends aren't going anywhere in the restaurant
kingdom... or anywhere else, barring an improbable getaway. Marki said
there are occasional escapes from the tubs, but they flounder on the
stones underfoot in the farm, spread their tentacles out helplessly and
quickly begin to dry out in the warm Kona environment. They breathe
through gills, like fish, and must be picked up and returned to the tub.<br />
<br />
Octopuses that survive infancy in the real world grow to maturing quickly, but have a short lifespan -- and those here at the farm may live just two to three years. <br />
<br />
It's
not easy being a mottled brown, or in an instant chalky white or some
other color cephalopod. Almost forgot to mention they change color in a flash as a defensive -- or offensive -- tactic. Strange critters, indeed.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<i><b>Above the ocean, a street festival</b></i></h4>
<br />
We headed for the hills near sunset for the monthly First Friday Art After Dark celebration in Holualoa Village, about five miles from and perhaps 1,500 feet above the beachfront town of Kona. And we were not alone. Over the past couple of years, a small event has become a huge happening -- hundreds of people exploring a quarter-mile stretch of the village's main street, lined with art galleries and shops, lining up for dinner or snacks from a variety of food truck-style vendors, and close to a dozen musical performers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8biIKMJZFt_BpttUh95rLkzS7v9sl_CwqcvFGZadVU6BuRkyXvwxljLPbpWeeVyWkk61xqSWWv58Ns6h7U-WfXWI1RWJ4J9dpiphsuMsr6r0yP5WVWunxjj004_EjLeCpf5JFmc2AfI/s1600/z-131_1597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1400" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8biIKMJZFt_BpttUh95rLkzS7v9sl_CwqcvFGZadVU6BuRkyXvwxljLPbpWeeVyWkk61xqSWWv58Ns6h7U-WfXWI1RWJ4J9dpiphsuMsr6r0yP5WVWunxjj004_EjLeCpf5JFmc2AfI/s320/z-131_1597.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the performances in Holualoa's First Friday fun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I made a cell phone video of a group featuring ukelele, guitar and keyboard outside a ukelele shop, where an older Hawaiian man was inside strumming an old instrument and visitors were trying out some of the ones for sale. (Eventually, when I figure out how to move it from MY cellphone, I'll add it here!)<br />
<br />
Some shops offered free snacks, and two were dispensing iced hibiscus tea... and it was terrific.<br />
<br />
The artwork was largely high-end quality, with prices ranging from under a hundred dollars into the thousands, The most expensive seemed to be, of all things, an excellent sculpture of... wait for it... an octopus, crafted from recycled material. It was priced at $12,000 -- a little higher than a sea turtle by the same artist, at $8,000.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<i>A little roadside amusement</i></h4>
<br />
Driving
back from the north near sunset Thursday, I noticed an odd sign along
the coastal Route 19. With a spare half hour before our octopian
encounter, we headed about 10 miles past the airport to find it in the
early afternoon. And I found one facing the northbound traffic above a
mile and a half above a donkey-crossing zone on the 55 mph highway.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4y1ZRVr4QbJIzy-Iuyzevlmph5N754Eko1f6rLd4z6_Pxc59BZ2F3rfy5Hza9V2b5MPb3PQIEBoGOQ7vWTf44isAAlE2wrZQyDvZdG0JDxg7-MGkyVizHfCrQNWksfreMxDbMbUZJ_Ab/s1600/51417439_10155841232987111_3700555044983144448_n%25281%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4y1ZRVr4QbJIzy-Iuyzevlmph5N754Eko1f6rLd4z6_Pxc59BZ2F3rfy5Hza9V2b5MPb3PQIEBoGOQ7vWTf44isAAlE2wrZQyDvZdG0JDxg7-MGkyVizHfCrQNWksfreMxDbMbUZJ_Ab/s200/51417439_10155841232987111_3700555044983144448_n%25281%2529.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<br />
It
was one of those adopt-a-highway, litter-fighting signs with local
sponsors. This one stood out, though, from the likes of company names or
civic group, reading: Psychotic State Racing.<br />
<br />
Bonnie took
the picture, and on our way back to the octopus farm entrance road she
Googled the name -- turns out, it's a local car fancier group with a
sense of humor. She posted the picture on Instagram, and the group
replied online with its appreciation.<br />
<br />
We are so connected.<br />
<br />
<i><b>Coming soon, hopefully: Volcano country </b></i><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-58478232746317428732019-02-01T05:32:00.001-05:002019-02-01T05:32:57.451-05:00On the Road Again, Hawaii: Part 1<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhren5sbC71cqwazai831QlM6F0D1j80-h_3ZQYvLFH7oNMgSd07oL891nYQQm7MfIiHSoVUCt8P3NLG6FD-uN05UJI7w849Pnzv8MqVSuRWT90Bvvg8wgIZJTOJYQmYIWpFsls0Gx4dmg/s1600/IMG_2831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhren5sbC71cqwazai831QlM6F0D1j80-h_3ZQYvLFH7oNMgSd07oL891nYQQm7MfIiHSoVUCt8P3NLG6FD-uN05UJI7w849Pnzv8MqVSuRWT90Bvvg8wgIZJTOJYQmYIWpFsls0Gx4dmg/s400/IMG_2831.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Yagi stands with a surviving Wiliwili. (Photos (c) by Bonnie Schupp)</td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Chance encounter</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">provides a lesson</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">in forest conservation</span></h2>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><b><i>Hawaii gives us the (Wili)willies</i></b></h3>
<br /><br />
Timing is everything. Take, for example, our encounter on our first full day in Hawaii with the keeper of the Wiliwili trees.<br />
<br />
His name is Rob Yagi, and Bonnie and I met him by chance near an odd roadside sculpture of sorts pointing skyward northeast of Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. Bonnie was taking pictures and I walked back toward our rental car, exchanging waves with a chap who had just pulled up in a small work van. I pointed quizzically at the sky-pointer above us, and Rob stepped toward me to chat.<br />
<br />
As best he could tell, the artistic piece harked to directional beacons of early Hawaiians, pointing to stars used for navigation. Then we chatted about the area, and about Rob, who it turned out works in tree conservation for a small nonprofit organization called the <a href="https://waikoloadryforest.org/">Waikoloa Dry Forest Initiative</a>.<br />
<br />
This valley between a pair of long-dormant volcanic peaks was once inhabited by a "closed canopy forest" of Wiliwili trees, which in this dry climate (9 to 12 inches of rain annually) are relatively short in stature, have an orange shade of bark (a defense against high sun exposure) and a wide reach of thick branches. Yet the wood is extremely light -- used years ago in construction of native outrigger canoes.<br />
<br />
Then came the goats and sheep -- brought to the island as a gift to the king a couple of centuries back, and protected by royal order. So the critters multiplied rapidly, enjoying in their flora buffet the bean-like seeds dropped in abundance by the Wiliwili, a prolific member of the pea family. Eventually, ranchers got into the goat and sheep business, clearing out much of the forest for pasture land. And the Wiliwili, once a dominant feature of the landscape, largely vanished. They number now only in the dozens on the Big Island.<br />
<br />
Rob led us down a highway to a narrow, bumpy asphalt lane, leading to the initiative's enclosure of about five acres where he is the caretaker. It is fenced to keep out wandering goats. Just inside the barrier stands one of the rare survivors. It even has been given a name, Hi'ialo, which means "Beloved," Rob says.<br />
<br />
From our vehicles parked outside the fence, we walk along the lane past other rare foliage including shrub-like uhiuhi trees -- a cousin of the Wiliwili, but with a hard, dense wood, of which Rob says there may be only 50 remaining in the world, eight of them growing here in the preserve.<br />
<br />
Finally, we reach the nursery inside yet another fence, where the 32-year-old Rob, with volunteers including young area school children, propagate seeds and plant little trees in an effort to recreate a piece of the closed canopy forest.<br />
<br />
The Wiliwili is an odd tree. The leaves drop in summer, and when barren it flowers in orange leaves, and eventually drops twisted-pod beans to the ground. In the nursery, a couple of dozen baby Wiliwili trees are sprouting in tiny pots for eventual planting. And perhaps, in 25 years or so, some of those spreading branches will meet 15 or 20 feet off the volcanic ground... a rebirth of sorts for a little patch of Hawaii.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<i>Getting here was (mostly) fun</i></h4>
<br />
We fled Maryland on Wednesday evening, Jan. 29, soon after rain turned to snow, and temperatures began plunging from an approaching polar vortex. Our Alaska Airlines flight was slightly delayed for cleaning and turnaround from the the international pier at Thurgood Marshall Baltimore-Washington International Airport, then we sat on the ground for a thorough de-icing before clearance for departure to San Francisco on the first leg of the journey.<br />
<br />
But we were quite cozy in unexpected comfort, reinforcing our love for this airline.<br />
<br />
We had arrived at BWI more than three hours earlier. The airport seemed deserted, perhaps the weather a factor. We used our Global Entry trusted traveler cards for the first time, not having to shed shoes and belts in passing through screening, and settled in to wait for boarding time. Having managed to secure upgrades from coach to better coach (4 inches of extra legroom, free drinks and snacks) on our previous two flights coming back from Alaska in 2016, I chatted up the nice lady overseeing the boarding gate counter to ask whether I might get lucky again.<br />
<br />
It would be a nice gift for Bonnie, I said, noting this was our anniversary trip and the 50th state of our travels during nearly four decades together. She asked for our boarding passes and said she would see what she could do.<br />
<br />
About an hour later, we had an upgrade -- ending up, briefly, in premium class, just a row behind the majesty of First Class, and with an unsold seat that gave us a whole three-seat row to ourselves. Free drinks, too, and maybe even snacks during the six-hour flight across America.<br />
<br />
I say briefly, because we were there settling in to the black leatherette seats for just 10 minutes. Then our Lady of the Boarding Gate stepped onto the plane and asked if we would like to.... hmmmm.... move up, just a row, to First Class. "Happy anniversary," she said.<br />
<br />
And even if our actual anniversary would not be happening until Feb. 10, nearly two weeks into the trip, it was a great start. We even figured out the personal entertainment units that lift out of holding bins on the right side of the creamy-beige, wider, almost fully reclining seats with footrests, watching the movie "Crazy Rich Asians." We felt crazy rich.<br />
<br />
For dinner, served on real plates with real cutlery and cloth napkins, I had ravioli and Bonnie the roasted cod, each served with veggies and a foil-wrapped Seattle Chocolates truffle. And she also had a couple of (glass) glasses of white wine.<br />
<br />
While Bonnie napped later, I enjoyed a second movie -- "The Post," which nearly brought me to tears in the 1971-era scene of the type for the Pentagon Papers story being clanked out from a pool of lead alloy metal on a Linotype machine, assembled in a page frame known as a "chase," and finally, after the tense scenes of high-level debate on whether The Washington Post could or should risk publishing it, the order being given to start the press run.<br />
<br />
The jetliner began its descent into San Francisco, rumbling slightly as the press speed increased in the movie moment -- perhaps a little more rumble than the slight vibration i remember from that time in the Baltimore Sun's long-ago fifth-floor newsroom on Calvert Street when the first-edition press run was underway.<br />
<br />
Our main steward on the flight, Taryn, handed us a card wishing us a happy anniversary, signed by her and two crew mates, before our speedy exit from the plane to baggage claim, just in time to catch the shuttle bus to a nearby Travelodge and a nap during the trip's only drawback -- a 14-hour overnight layover before a noon flight to Kona.<br />
<br />
I think of it as a price paid for the other bargain. After our Alaska trip, we had opted to take the airline credit card with its $75 annual fee, earning in the process the deal of a buy-one, get-one for just taxes and fees, and a free checked bag apiece. And we could not schedule in a multi-day layover to visit friends in San Diego. It had to be a single itinerary with identical departure and destination airports, and the best-priced version available landed us overnight in 'Frisco. (The homebound trip will run 17 hours, from Kona to Sacramento to San Diego to BWI.)<br />
<br />
The flight from SFO to Kona was fully booked, no upgrade possibility, and we squeezed into standard coach seats in Row 29, near the back of the plane. (Our seatmate on the aisle was a nice woman traveling with more than a dozen other family members from Utah to a week-long Hawaiian vacation. We chatted a bit about our respective lives, then worked at figuring how to activate our previously downloaded inflight entertainment app to watch movies on our respective iPads. (No back-of-seat, or side-of-seat screens on the older plane, alas. Just coffee, soft drinks, a cookie.) <br />
<br />
<br />
That said, our round-trip deal came to just a tad over 800 bucks.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<i><b>An otherworldly arrival</b></i></h4>
<br />
We landed at Kona International Airport in mid-afternoon on Thursday, disembarking on a ramp down to the tarmac and walking into an open-air village of sorts. People are sitting at what seemed like picnic tables near the incredibly informal gate.<br />
<br />
The baggage arrived quickly, as did the Hertz rent-a-car shuttle to retrieve what we expected to be a Camry-like vehicle. As a Hertz Gold Club member (free, but you have to sign up for it), we found my name on the electronic greeting board directing us to our waiting car in Space 14. It was a Nissan Rogue SUV way bigger than what we wanted, and lacking a trunk to store stuff during adventures.<br />
<br />
Inside at the counter (no waiting line in the Gold Club lane), an amiable lady clerk checked what else was available and offered up a "full size" Nissan Altima that felt just a tad bigger than an "intermediate" Camry, but pretty nifty. And off we went to check in at the Kona Holiday Inn Express, our home for a four-night stay.<br />
<br />
We walked two short blocks down to the Pacific waterfront promenade for our first Hawaiian sunset, and dinner at a restaurant recommended by the front desk -- the slightly pricey, but very gourmet Fish Hopper. We split a $38 "Island Platter" of jumbo coconut fried shrimp, dungeness crab cake and blackened mahi-mahi, with sauteed veggies and sweet blue mashed potato, with a couple of glasses of wine for Bonnie and splitting an enormous slice of chocolate passion fruit-cream cake. It was all terrific, but the latter perhaps over-the-top unwise. Burp!<br />
<br />
We were asleep by 10 p.m. Hawaii time -- about 3 a.m. back home in Maryland. <br />
<br />
<h4>
<i>More adventures on the open road</i></h4>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6j3f2L9agg6ONrwBrLJMaUFgYRa_42qsipsQBXcJ82adwHQ-GZ-UkBBSTqAdGbRbLGusTkWYGW4gOiysSqiw_3moP7w5lv2APBFN2fhi7NlVaoHL8bHcOLNZ8jiKHfwT8JeFZVcsD-7o/s1600/IMG_2822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6j3f2L9agg6ONrwBrLJMaUFgYRa_42qsipsQBXcJ82adwHQ-GZ-UkBBSTqAdGbRbLGusTkWYGW4gOiysSqiw_3moP7w5lv2APBFN2fhi7NlVaoHL8bHcOLNZ8jiKHfwT8JeFZVcsD-7o/s200/IMG_2822.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An open-air breakfast</td></tr>
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Breakfast is free at the hotel, the usual buffet of omelettes, sausage, muffins and biscuits, cinnamon buns, orange juice, coffee and fruit. But at this Holiday Inn Express, the poolside breakfast nook is open-air. Birds fly in for crumbs, and an occasional fly buzzes around looking for a landing zone on strawberry jam.<br />
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Well-stuffed, we were ready to take on the Big Island -- and solve a little problem.<br />
<br />
Triple-check the stuff you pack before taking a long trip. Bonnie, in reconfiguring what went where, left a little plaid purse with two important prescription meds, medical insurance cards, a medical history printout, and her lifetime seniors National Parks pass.<br />
<br />
We managed to arrange for her doc's office to fax prescriptions for short-term quantities to a pharmacy in Kona, only to learn that the CVS affiliate could not fill them for those particular drugs from an out-of-state physician. The pharmacy tossed out the faxes. So on our first full day of exploring, we happened upon an Urgent Care office and in a stopover of a bit less than two hours obtained a Hawaii doc's prescriptions, filled them at the CVS affiliate nearby, and while waiting there found Bonnie's tasty New Zealand wine from the Fish Hopper dinner on sale for 10 bucks a bottle.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spam (and imitators) at the drug store</td></tr>
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At the checkout counter, we also encountered a Hawaiian couple purchasing about a dozen cans of Spam -- introduced as a convenience food for American soldiers in World War II, now a much-loved staple in the local diet, and easily stored on a shelf for emergencies. It is even served as a breakfast item at McDonalds here, they noted. <br />
<br />
Other than not having the parks pass, life was back to normal -- and back in the car, we found our way northeasterly across a mountain road to elevations of about 3,000 feet above the ocean, drove through occasional clouds and rain, savored the impressionist-looking sight of trees enshrouded by mist, and inspected bits of dead coral washed up by the ocean.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great rainbow view in the eastern sky.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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And as we stepped out of the car near waves crashing into volcano-deposited black boulders on a west-shore beach, a brilliant 180-degree rainbow graced the sky east from the setting sun.<br />
<br />
Back at the hotel about 6:30 p.m., we asked our friendly desk clerk for another restaurant recommendation, perhaps one more modest in price where locals eat. She pointed across the the parking lot, across the road, to The Island Grill. It was packed, with six groups waiting for tables, and most of the patrons were Hawaiians, many with children in tow.<br />
<br />
Dinner was unusual, to say the least -- a dish named the "Moco Loco," with the most elaborate and costly version at $14.95 featuring a bed of steamed rice topped by two scrambled eggs and the choice of three items from a list of other garnishments.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner at The Island Grill</td></tr>
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<br />
We picked fried shrimp, panko-crusted pounded fried chicken breast and a corned beef patty, with a glass of Pinot Grigio for Bonnie and a cup of Kona-blend coffee for me. With tip, it came to just under $30.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<i>A bit of travel philosophy </i> </h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie, with camera and coastal view</td></tr>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Dealing with the prescriptions problem was the reason we intersected at that roadside sky-pointer with forest conservationist Rob Yagi. As I noted at the top of this blog post, timing is everything. And you have to be open to possibilities.</span><br />
<br />
We may have planned flights, and rental cars, and places to stay on three islands before we get back home, but from day to day, life happens. And we seem always to be the better for it.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<i><b>Tomorrow: An octopian encounter</b></i></h4>
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<br />David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-41639709605401036352018-08-29T18:56:00.000-04:002018-09-25T17:53:57.999-04:00On the Road Again, Chapter 12<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifwQhgYcvEV8qst9jPwEcbClU_3tmhmcGci95UZxMiYYRVmEkL-dCdwf2TEXfYaaidCzQIxIVtcq0_mI3_N7go7NzDcD7vA5QTziRZDSYL3CTZVmR-36AAAACDayODHa-rmlUyKdclETQ/s1600/z-MAY_3643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1400" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifwQhgYcvEV8qst9jPwEcbClU_3tmhmcGci95UZxMiYYRVmEkL-dCdwf2TEXfYaaidCzQIxIVtcq0_mI3_N7go7NzDcD7vA5QTziRZDSYL3CTZVmR-36AAAACDayODHa-rmlUyKdclETQ/s400/z-MAY_3643.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabinet Room at the Clinton Library: I'm in charge! (Photos by Bonnie J. Schupp)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> A visit to Clinton Country</span></b></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">in search of kneepads,</span></b></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">then Tenn. to visit friends</span></b></h2>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Clinton Library, aquarium adventures </span></i></h3>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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Back home for close to three months, and I am reminded --
several times a week -- that Chapter 12 of our Great American Road Trip is way
overdue. Maybe it's just hard to wrap up so wonderful (and exhausting) an
adventure as a coast-to-coast drive.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some folks have asked
what I considered the highlight. Beyond five days in Utah -- making new friends
and experiencing a very different lifestyle -- and reacquainting with old
friends in several other stops, that's tough to answer.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Several places I wish we'd had more time to explore, among
them Little Rock, Arkansas. We had passed through the state on an earlier road
trip years ago, when we drove to New Orleans and Dallas. I barely remembered
it. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clinton Library, Little Rock</td></tr>
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Not so this time, thanks to our first experience of visiting
a presidential library -- a complex overlooking the Arkansas River<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the heart of Billary Clinton Country just
minutes off Interstate 40. </div>
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<br /></div>
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We had scoped the place online, and managed to arrive
minutes before the 2 p.m. closing time for lunch at the William J. Clinton
Presidential Library and Museum's very pleasant basement restaurant -- with
tablecloth, cloth napkins, gracious service, excellent burgers and fries, and
for Bonnie a generously poured and presidentially-designed-chilled-glass of
white wine. The bill came to about 30 bucks.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Admission to the library and museum, covering three upper floors
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towers of books with presidential papers</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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If there is a centerpiece, perhaps it is the display few
visitors have time to explore -- the towering shelves of blue-bound books
containing millions of documents from Bill Clinton's eight-year presidency, so
many volumes that even the hundreds upon hundreds visible there represent but a
large portion of the entirety.</div>
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<br /></div>
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And that left us wondering what an eventual Trump library might
house... would the presidency of an ineloquent man who seems barely interested
in the written word generate so large a mass of records? The joke, inevitably,
is that it would likely contain a porn peep show featuring the collected works
of Stephanie Clifford, and a magazine collection of Karen McDougal centerfolds.</div>
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<i><b>A digression on morality</b></i></div>
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I know what you're thinking now: Bubba himself was not Mr.
Morality before or during his presidency.</div>
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So let's address the Donkey in the Room: There are no
kneepads evident under Bill's desk in the impressive, full-size recreation of
the Oval Office. And in three hours of exploring the exhibits, we found no
mention of Monica (though I have since been informed of an alcove on the second floor with material on the investigation by independent counsel Ken Starr) -- only the inclusion, on
a Clinton timeline running across a wall the length of the building, of the
House of Representatives vote to impeach him, the subsequent acquittal by the
Senate, and the president's apology to the nation for his improper conduct.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The Capitol Hill drama played out 20 years ago,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the post-election, lame duck days of the
105th Congress and early weeks of the 106th -- in a House and Senate that both remained
Republican majority.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While it takes only
a majority vote in the House for impeachment, removal of the president requires
two-thirds in the Senate, and those numbers illustrate the difficulty of the
removal process.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Just two of the four articles of impeachment before the
House received majority votes, and both failed in the subsequent trial played
out in the Senate -- the party line vote of 45-55 on perjury to a grand jury,
and a 50-50 vote on obstruction of justice, both substantially failing to meet
the required 67 for conviction and removal of the president.</div>
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Those votes echo forward in time, as we approach the 2018 midterm
elections. In the event of Democrats taking control in the House, an
impeachment proceeding against Donald Trump becomes a distinct possibility. But
even if Republicans also lose the Senate, it will take overwhelming evidence of
criminality to persuade enough of those remaining to join Democrats in giving
Trump the bum's rush out of the White House. (This, even as a Pence presidency
might be deemed more appealing to conservative tastes.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So that's the thoughts generated just by a cursory look at
the Clinton Library. But there was plenty more to see, including a replica of
the Cabinet meeting room (top photo), cases upon cases of gifts received by the Clintons
during the presidency, all manner of political bric-a-brac,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a loop of comical Bill-and-Hillary videos (unlike
Trump, they showed a sense of humor even while under political attack), and a
multi-floor temporary exhibition of presidential-era and campaign music across
generations.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Unfortunately, the only photography allowed inside the Oval
Office is done by a museum staffer -- so if you want your picture taken there,
it will cost at least 15 bucks. But that seemed to be the only extra cost for
visitors, other than a splurge in the souvenir and book shop where Bonnie
bought an autographed copy of presidential daughter Chelsea Clinton's
children's book, "She Persisted Around the World / 13 Women Who Changed
History," and another titled "Photos That Changed the World."</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><b>Politics rocks! </b></i></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-soeMA695ZVxx2AMYfRA1Ock_fjNb1NoqKk4JV3-S_JQ77bm8jui8ou1vWAnnhwnGPnJI8UpJWnNfke94oUY2-w7WddnB0PZLXWcOkwc-fkmusDL9rCgNsqx4oYFhTBph6M8ooLvpFpA/s1600/z-MAY_3611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="1310" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-soeMA695ZVxx2AMYfRA1Ock_fjNb1NoqKk4JV3-S_JQ77bm8jui8ou1vWAnnhwnGPnJI8UpJWnNfke94oUY2-w7WddnB0PZLXWcOkwc-fkmusDL9rCgNsqx4oYFhTBph6M8ooLvpFpA/s200/z-MAY_3611.jpg" width="186" /></a></b></i></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Much of the material in the library and its exhibits are
property of the National Archives. But the temporary show, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>"Louder Than Words – Rock, Power, and
Politics," which ended in early August was created by the Newseum in
Washington.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And there are still opportunities to see it elsewhere: at
the Canadian Museum for Human Rights in Winnipeg, March 12 to Sept. 4, 1919; at the Durham Museum in Omaha, Neb., Oct. 13, 2019, to Feb. 3, 2020; and at the George H.W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum in College Station, Texas, March 2, 2020, to Jan. 4, 2021.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A public affairs officer at the National Archives and Records
Administration noted that presidential "libraries" may be different
in the future -- starting with Barack Obama's, which will be a museum. Reference
material will be available digitally.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
She said such institutions can be an "uneasy"
marriage of museum and library -- and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>that Richard Nixon's in Yorba Linda, Calif., was at first just a museum,
out of concern at<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>how the Watergate
scandal would be presented. Notably, its collection now includes some 3,700
hours of recordings known as "the White House Tapes."</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Homeward through
Tennessee</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Interstate 40 took us toward Nashville, and a turn south on
I-24 to Chattanooga -- areas we had visited before, but this time intended for
catching up with friends.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In 2012, we flew to the West Coast for three weeks of exploration
and a wedding. The latter was Bonnie's first as an officiant, in her capacity
as an ordained minister of the online Universal Life Church. The happy couple
Tara and Christian, happy to say, still are.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The couple have since moved to a suburb of Chattanooga,
where Christian -- after getting his bachelor's degree in the field and waiting
several years for a job opening -- has become an air-traffic controller, and
Tara is an entrepreneur in the field of online marketing.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wEU3idCIhZLsA0GBv835J0e72I8oI4GSKoXaCfMrEDJvMhN2gRTCjM9kyRFkGoUGoUCa9vwgOWx3Ps03A_f7-A5jpI9sjVL_MJ-53CgKs-2m1pNKA3J9H1bUL1SfpYXoV4R-6iaSdPg/s1600/Tara-Christian001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="726" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wEU3idCIhZLsA0GBv835J0e72I8oI4GSKoXaCfMrEDJvMhN2gRTCjM9kyRFkGoUGoUCa9vwgOWx3Ps03A_f7-A5jpI9sjVL_MJ-53CgKs-2m1pNKA3J9H1bUL1SfpYXoV4R-6iaSdPg/s320/Tara-Christian001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie, Me, Christian and Tara (Expensive souvenir photo)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They had not yet seen a highlight of their new city -- the Tennessee
Aquarium. So that became our main adventure there, exploring its two buildings
on opposite corners of an open-air (and in early June, very hot) bustling
center of tourism. The aquarium opened in 1992, with similarities to, and
designed by the same company as, Baltimore's National Aquarium a decade earlier.
Admission is 30 bucks -- cheaper than Baltimore's, but the Imax movie at an
extra eight dollars makes up most of the difference.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYh1CilOC9CTwhF2TLMrrcJqFvHOp2u3WovJhPbm0LZsiot4zQp9ioZOz-k-2IyMbyUHGuo5teUy88SeP3dMV42PfE2siRMt6hyphenhyphenQUjatZKw1ogkEK1O_F_JO6MRp-vSmpHPVxJ4NRKL9w/s1600/z-20180603_134027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="788" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYh1CilOC9CTwhF2TLMrrcJqFvHOp2u3WovJhPbm0LZsiot4zQp9ioZOz-k-2IyMbyUHGuo5teUy88SeP3dMV42PfE2siRMt6hyphenhyphenQUjatZKw1ogkEK1O_F_JO6MRp-vSmpHPVxJ4NRKL9w/s320/z-20180603_134027.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We bought aquarium hats!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The overall layout seemed easier to navigate, and less
congested, indicating its designers had rethought and improved upon the Baltimore project. And there is a focusing concept in its tracking of the path of water
from Appalachian mountains to the sea.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8AhpeF4JRcuPCjBjQO-KGt29bAiWKV0m864jOyLAqX53hT8AIawbFZa6VvTvykF70RhqOkGarC_S352gMqml-BdUeVELVF0SiNM_lzHbsnQgVq9juZiFVyRABJBlP3Pr0BCKAEUaois/s1600/z-DSCN7485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8AhpeF4JRcuPCjBjQO-KGt29bAiWKV0m864jOyLAqX53hT8AIawbFZa6VvTvykF70RhqOkGarC_S352gMqml-BdUeVELVF0SiNM_lzHbsnQgVq9juZiFVyRABJBlP3Pr0BCKAEUaois/s320/z-DSCN7485.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quirky art in Nashville</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After two nights with Tara and Christian, we retraced our
route up I-24 to the town of Columbia, 40 minutes from Nashville, where our photographer
friend Brycia and her son Andrew had recently moved. We explored a little of the big
city in search of quirky art we had missed on a shorter road trip months
earlier, when we moved a carload of odds and ends to Brycia's new house. (On
that trip, I left behind my new iPad -- which was subsequently found sitting
plugged in on the floor, amusingly visible to an interior security camera.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And then, in a final burst of stamina, we drove straight
from Tennessee back home to Maryland -- the last 740 miles of the journey (stopping
only for food, fuel and rest stops) in about 12 hours.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8kXUH1xJzv-6rd0TXVIefSFiK1CVNTtG-zIqt_vrsWcGvdqln2QGMvXjBFwPskYk9TjcjScOEkOxR4c5zM8bCu3MrOqR5zCI1uODc_PSK5MKOBJUL4V0CGxGDjEXak73WntoxXZozic/s1600/z-DSCN7505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="946" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8kXUH1xJzv-6rd0TXVIefSFiK1CVNTtG-zIqt_vrsWcGvdqln2QGMvXjBFwPskYk9TjcjScOEkOxR4c5zM8bCu3MrOqR5zCI1uODc_PSK5MKOBJUL4V0CGxGDjEXak73WntoxXZozic/s320/z-DSCN7505.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew and Brycia, and a silvery bird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From its beginning
about 10 a.m. on May 8 to the ending of the journey late on June 6, our trusty
2012 Toyota Camry's trip-o-meter tally: 7,528 miles. We drove through portions of 20 states, including an odd corner of Georgia that cuts across about a mile of Interstate 24. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next big trip we're planning is Hawaii, the only state we have not visited among the 50. Fortunately,
perhaps, we won't drive to get there. The road just doesn't go that far.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbEvEvSHC2Yb_Ln5XQmaKbcijej68MiMyBt30TjRu15Bs9wYWBsgkhFRpCw_ePSlArRcoDdA3W5JbDGBKUJLTZfOnmQ4ZYjkkRvwHX6F_JROR2RdbUngFWUNIKlncXL3EwJ3ff3XEFaE/s1600/map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1012" data-original-width="1600" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbEvEvSHC2Yb_Ln5XQmaKbcijej68MiMyBt30TjRu15Bs9wYWBsgkhFRpCw_ePSlArRcoDdA3W5JbDGBKUJLTZfOnmQ4ZYjkkRvwHX6F_JROR2RdbUngFWUNIKlncXL3EwJ3ff3XEFaE/s400/map.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route across America</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-88230940591735416442018-07-04T14:28:00.000-04:002018-07-07T20:45:33.010-04:00Newspaper remembrance<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhon_dKAuhnv2urI2c8QkJrSx3clk3owe6Qbnsr4dhPtov8pOj-G1ARss0_SnoPA6FxprQc4DnBM490HxhudKPufM5C_-6HlbPRsQCpqyMvVp9adyZztGVZMKIv-RwiTihlKOaC2IumiEY/s1600/36596402_10156387891778480_1618765704914272256_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhon_dKAuhnv2urI2c8QkJrSx3clk3owe6Qbnsr4dhPtov8pOj-G1ARss0_SnoPA6FxprQc4DnBM490HxhudKPufM5C_-6HlbPRsQCpqyMvVp9adyZztGVZMKIv-RwiTihlKOaC2IumiEY/s400/36596402_10156387891778480_1618765704914272256_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Newsboys' remembrance gathering includes bench-sitters Fred Rasmussen (left) and Ernie Imhoff. (Photo by Jim Burger)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Newsboys killed in 1924</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">honored at gravesite</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">on disaster anniversary</span></h2>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Toasts, tears are offered for them</i></span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>... and for those killed at the Annapolis Capital</i></span></h3>
<br />
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Time has a way of defeating memory, but a small group of
diehard newspaper folks have kept alive an annual remembrance for five teenage
boys lost in a tragedy nearly a century ago when the Chesapeake Bay steamboat Three
Rivers caught fire off Cove Point in southern Maryland.</div>
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The victims were among the 59 members of The Evening Sun
Newsboys Band,returning from a performance on the bay steamer on the Fourth of
July in 1924. Five adults also perished in the disaster.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The boys rest under a semicircle of gravestones flanked by
stone benches, all facing a seven-foot-high granite memorial and copper
sculpture in Baltimore's huge Loudon Park Cemetery -- also the gravesite, in
another section, of the famed<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Evening
Sun writer H.L. Mencken.</div>
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<br /></div>
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For many years, the evening newspaper held a memorial
service there for the boys, and the tradition was revived about 1994 by a group
of staffers including its last managing editor, Ernest F. Imhoff. The Evening
Sun itself formally died -- some say it was murdered -- in 1995, four years
after its staff, operation and content were merged with the surviving morning
Sun, leading to a rapid decline in circulation.</div>
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Ernie worked for decades at the evening paper, and was its
city editor on a snowy winter night in 1969 when I, as a cub reporter for the
then-competing morning<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>paper, was
covering a massive church fire across the street from his home in Baltimore's
Bolton Hill neighborhood. He invited me in from the cold, and offered a
drink... brandy, as I recall.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I like to think of myself as an Evening Sun alum, despite
having worked 40 years for the morning paper. I was acting night metro editor
when, at the stroke of midnight one night in 1991, their staffs were
officially wed. And I managed to get a few bylines on its front page during the
final years of publication.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Now in his early 80s, his gait slowed enough to need a cane,
Ernie is still presiding over the ceremony at Loudon Park, and was among 16
people who turned out at 9 a.m. today at the newsboys' burial site. It was also
a family reunion, of sorts, because newspaper veterans have that kind of a bond
-- dedication to their profession, and to each other. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EhRjbfUoRdS0Sdc5FR3WqxOE3k02Ljp_pH4TclUq3xme8ROLTXDNCj6WOeczQMTyu8CfogaQdLDNeCHTSyJtbLUPMt4_Qr2IBZjMc_OjISe0ZMAQhDU35GgZAgQlZzZ05I5LzdvptZE/s1600/36594600_10156387892333480_4864526843312603136_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EhRjbfUoRdS0Sdc5FR3WqxOE3k02Ljp_pH4TclUq3xme8ROLTXDNCj6WOeczQMTyu8CfogaQdLDNeCHTSyJtbLUPMt4_Qr2IBZjMc_OjISe0ZMAQhDU35GgZAgQlZzZ05I5LzdvptZE/s200/36594600_10156387892333480_4864526843312603136_o.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave Cohn calls out names of the newsboys, one headstone at a time. (Jim Burger photo)</td></tr>
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There was news to share about the declining health of a
colleague unable to attend, and lament for others who have died in the past
year. There were toasts with whiskey and rye (and cold bottles of water for the
few nondrinkers), and a reading by retired Evening Sun copy desk chief Dave Cohn
of part of the newsboys' story.</div>
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<br /></div>
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It included the names of the dead, recited as Dave walked from
headstone to headstone: Walter Clark Millikin and Thomas Ashby Pilker Jr., both
age 13; Lester Alfred Seligman and Vernon Edward Jefferson, both 15; and the
oldest of them, Nelson Appleton Miles, 17.</div>
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<br /></div>
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They were among the army of kids in that far-gone era who
delivered the news.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcJkZ-H32XmAPgaaK_QI8FB8xFlsL9twrOTZgGOjf_3ZOi-SGhhzRk98OoKeknrCKVxOKTdk1N6E4AICT_d4DyMvosIMVAU2XYEYv9yLb4VoXY60P8jmGJCssYmuFERJHDP2ev9u5_Ps/s1600/36623350_10156387890303480_7413500954651131904_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcJkZ-H32XmAPgaaK_QI8FB8xFlsL9twrOTZgGOjf_3ZOi-SGhhzRk98OoKeknrCKVxOKTdk1N6E4AICT_d4DyMvosIMVAU2XYEYv9yLb4VoXY60P8jmGJCssYmuFERJHDP2ev9u5_Ps/s200/36623350_10156387890303480_7413500954651131904_o.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rasmussen and Joan Jacobson offer comfort as Ernie Imhoff speaks of the Annapolis Capital victims. (Jim Burger photo)</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ernie, tears welling up in his eyes, said their names should
never be forgotten -- nor should those of the five others who were killed last
week when a crazy man with a grudge opened fire with a shotgun at the Annapolis
Capital, which is owned by the Baltimore Sun.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They were Rob Hiaasen, 59, assistant managing editor and
former Sun reporter; Wendi Winters, 65, community reporter and special
publications editor; Gerald Fischman, 61, editorial page editor; John McNamara,
56, staff writer and longtime sports reporter; and Rebecca Smith, 34, a sales
assistant hired just eight months ago.</div>
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<br /></div>
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They, too, delivered the news.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Perhaps someday there will be a memorial place for all of
them as well, in addition to the one in our hearts.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhyphenhyphenLf8u6IVug7xg5OUsMTYx1JUJhgxUDnVkiLcK0Vb-DOXDDRG_8wdur7B6OXGUvGbx_atJSkBfAVko47FCr51MVKEhQNB4Lj4ylhkLt8DpE-pg1y6JX9wJAULy6X6Lth-Sfy9NONBNo/s1600/pano-memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="1600" height="48" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhyphenhyphenLf8u6IVug7xg5OUsMTYx1JUJhgxUDnVkiLcK0Vb-DOXDDRG_8wdur7B6OXGUvGbx_atJSkBfAVko47FCr51MVKEhQNB4Lj4ylhkLt8DpE-pg1y6JX9wJAULy6X6Lth-Sfy9NONBNo/s320/pano-memorial.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
About 500 people attended a life celebration for Annapolis Capital shooting victim Rob Hiaasen Monday evening, and services for the other four are scheduled for this week and next. (Panorama photo by Bonnie J. Schupp)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-10690461665979703802018-06-03T22:24:00.001-04:002018-06-03T22:24:34.748-04:00On the Road Again, Chapter 11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8DeDcHVHOm6XJeKxx0ctpAp5xio93nDbDgD_OkhqmqMmSl7I3BcDgmfKCXNsdNV_hOoVpC3shJgYkGP5kK9WYjypo2UahMQOmyJGa_nbKpvY8cfQm4cCVHQDUY3bA9-z3FrQrOYlB6c/s1600/z-DSCN7454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8DeDcHVHOm6XJeKxx0ctpAp5xio93nDbDgD_OkhqmqMmSl7I3BcDgmfKCXNsdNV_hOoVpC3shJgYkGP5kK9WYjypo2UahMQOmyJGa_nbKpvY8cfQm4cCVHQDUY3bA9-z3FrQrOYlB6c/s320/z-DSCN7454.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empty chairs and reflection, Oklahoma City (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Oklahoma memorials</span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">for bombing victims, </span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">folk music legend</span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h2>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>... and time expired at cemetery</b></i></span> </span></span></h3>
<br />
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Not every stop on the trip is an entertaining Roadside
Attraction, and crossing Oklahoma requires a somber visit to the site of the
Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building in downtown Oklahoma City, destroyed by an
act of domestic terrorism in 1995 with the loss of 168 lives.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtD9SQz9emkIDOPh4vi08vsQeFJwpcqc44JygiDDSK1BE3sCyukEvdt37bJwxoTZAq__YSHudLGmszbbRnHNlPw2_31dJFJANLyLra7J1VbXMrBPGF00kfHwtOCmY2j4ML-MSDlmpios/s1600/z-DSCN7441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1261" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtD9SQz9emkIDOPh4vi08vsQeFJwpcqc44JygiDDSK1BE3sCyukEvdt37bJwxoTZAq__YSHudLGmszbbRnHNlPw2_31dJFJANLyLra7J1VbXMrBPGF00kfHwtOCmY2j4ML-MSDlmpios/s200/z-DSCN7441.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">9:01 -- a minute before the world changed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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But getting there proved a challenge. We’ve never seen a
city so torn up by road construction and detours. It seemed that every major
street into and out of town had been dug up, at least in part, giving our cellphone
Mapquest link a workout.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Parking also wasn’t simple, so I opted for the Post Office
lot across the street where signs declare it for customers only, with a
15-minute limit. There were plenty of spaces. And I bought a stamp. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrUBWwHXX2EW79McwbeBedzY9etf5phyphenhyphenk95PoqFo6RJFFt9HaInBFshPt11Hbm2mfoGcUKuPAquuP0v6A6gpqYDxS1bIlfRanEHzYyKAspFwNZkIlnfrJMSk-rvYPGr5s5UHFK4JJCWDU/s1600/z-DSCN7431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrUBWwHXX2EW79McwbeBedzY9etf5phyphenhyphenk95PoqFo6RJFFt9HaInBFshPt11Hbm2mfoGcUKuPAquuP0v6A6gpqYDxS1bIlfRanEHzYyKAspFwNZkIlnfrJMSk-rvYPGr5s5UHFK4JJCWDU/s200/z-DSCN7431.jpg" width="200" /></a>A long fence lines one side of the memorial site, and on it
are hanging hundreds of tributes to the dead – including flowers, pictures,
stuffed animals (some of the dead were children in daycare there), and written
messages. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Where the building stood is a long, shallow reflecting pool,
and alongside it a grassy field lined with 168 chairs – each bearing the name
of a victim. A National Park Service ranger was leading a group of visitors to
the chair of a particular person they were seeking, and afterward explained
that the federal service works in cooperation with the nonprofit foundation overseeing
the Oklahoma City National Memorial and Museum.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The memorial is flanked by monumental gates, one bearing the
time 9:01, one minute before the blast, and the other 9:03. The space between is
beautiful, serene, a place of reflection.</div>
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<br /></div>
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We were considering other places<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvb5L0UqrL_PlatOgYnIkDFgrgiZ3fB3DjPq4gqcb5AVEx51WE76PnayURHL1gG_b8syDM1t1ji-oZ9GSko_L6Q5xN1A-X_Hs0SgQi3ys_m5R4R1EvsAjMy5WsilV9LiLxl4dP_M633o/s1600/z-DSCN7462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1013" data-original-width="1200" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvb5L0UqrL_PlatOgYnIkDFgrgiZ3fB3DjPq4gqcb5AVEx51WE76PnayURHL1gG_b8syDM1t1ji-oZ9GSko_L6Q5xN1A-X_Hs0SgQi3ys_m5R4R1EvsAjMy5WsilV9LiLxl4dP_M633o/s320/z-DSCN7462.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The now-closed Womb building</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
to visit in Oklahoma City,
but quirky – and the ranger suggested a building called “the Womb.” It was a warehouse-type
structure a few minutes’ drive from the downtown section, that had been used by
an arts collective and painted with loving craziness on the outside walls.
Unfortunately, the doors were locked and inside it appeared to have been vacated. But
visible inside the entrance area was the kind of art installation created by Flaming
Lips rock band guitarist Wayne Coyne at Santa Fe’s Meow Wolf.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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So we threaded the road-construction maze back to Interstate
40, and Bonnie found another appealing stop: Woody Guthrie’s 1912 birthplace in
the town Okemah.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The town had a small park with a Woody statue, mural and
memorial, and not far away was the now-vacant birthplace property where a local artist had
sculpted its dead tree into the shape of a guitar bearing the words “this land
is your land” from what likely is Guthrie’s most enduring song.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woody Guthrie statue and memorial park in Okemah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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Guthrie’s body was cremated after his death from Huntington’s
disease complications in 1967. His ashes were scattered at Coney Island, N.Y.,
but a memorial for him was placed at his family’s plot in Okemah’s Highland
Cemetery.</div>
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<br /></div>
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We didn’t realize it at the time of our visit, but we
stopped at the cemetery for another oddity – the grave of Barbara Sue Manire,
whose tombstone features a parking meter with a “64 year time limit) that has
the dates of her birth (April 29, 1941) and death (on her birthday in 2005) and
the dreaded words “Time Expired.”</div>
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<br />
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbara Sue Manire's time was up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<h4>
<i><b>Next Chapter: Clinton country</b></i></h4>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-8069171425807144242018-06-01T11:20:00.000-04:002018-06-01T11:21:07.258-04:00On the Road Again, Chapter 10<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLMVhkoqn-7x7XQaRTiQNzvYcKx3MyXhM5uScedAa9Mn3XbUGmwVvDbu_Lj4jD0wUbpHXyGEMuDf4GC2wo6jO9y1fkta4R50uP32M7rfrdTUzIJNGz-ACSs7svojCSK7Ek2tAiSZUWKk/s1600/z-DSCN7404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="1536" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLMVhkoqn-7x7XQaRTiQNzvYcKx3MyXhM5uScedAa9Mn3XbUGmwVvDbu_Lj4jD0wUbpHXyGEMuDf4GC2wo6jO9y1fkta4R50uP32M7rfrdTUzIJNGz-ACSs7svojCSK7Ek2tAiSZUWKk/s400/z-DSCN7404.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cadillac Ranch draws visitors to Texas pasture. (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Last stop in New Mexico,</b></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>but more craziness</b></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>in Lone Star State</b></span></h2>
<h3>
<i><b><br /></b></i></h3>
<h3>
<i><b>Invest in spray paint stock, folks!</b></i></h3>
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Tucumcari… tuckawhat? That’s where we settled for our final
night in New Mexico, after turning eastward for the long drive home. Bonnie was
worn out in our almost nightly (and free with 20,000 points) Holiday Inn
Express du jour, but I went out to peek at the town, fill the gas tank and get
the dead bugs off the windshield.</div>
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Summer weather was settling in, with temperatures rising
into the 90s, and bugs were attacking the windshield like it was a kamikaze
suicide mission. (Flying grasshoppers, it looked like, made the loudest impact
and biggest mess.)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside a closed cafe, Tucumcari</td></tr>
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Tucumcari turned out to be enchanting, in an oddball way.
Driving along a mile or so of Historic Route 66, I found an assortment of
old-style roadside motels, stores and gas stations in various states of
survival, decay or abandonment – like the Apache motel near the edge of town, a
big sign above the building topped by an Indian face and “vacancy” at the
bottom. A tiny notice on a boarded office window read “no trespassing.” And the
Motel Entrance arrow pointed to a line of boarded windows and doors.</div>
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I also took note of a huge horned animal skeleton on the back of a pickup truck alongside the Tepee Curios shop. Nearby, a camel stood atop the sign of the Safari Motel – and a big one stood in the lobby by the front window.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route 66 museum monument</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
But in the glare of the setting sun, I missed a lot more
crazy-great stuff – so the next morning, we headed together to check out the
roadside attractions there. One stop on the west side of town was a large Route
66 monument incorporating a giant 1950s-style automobile tailfin, standing in
front of the local Route 66 museum.</div>
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<br /></div>
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But who needed to see the museum, when the town itself was
such an amazing exhibition of faded, quirky glory. Well, not all faded. There
was the Blue Swallow Motel, whose owners over the last six years or so have
lovingly restored the place to its 1940s and 1950s beauty, including antique automobiles,
colorful painted metal chairs outside each room, and adjoining garages bearing
signs and painted murals. The motel dates to 1941, and has a working 1941
Kelvinator refrigerator/freezer named “Lois.”</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue Swallow rooms have adjoining garages,.</td></tr>
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There’s a couple of murals, including one of James Dean
smoking a cigarette and standing next to his Porsche automobile – presumably
the one in which he died in a crash.</div>
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On an adjoining lot stands an old gas station with two pairs
of “pumps” – one for leaded gasoline, the other ethyl – at period prices. On
another fuel island, a pair of Tesla charging stations. </div>
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Most of the Blue Swallow rooms have a queen bed, and prices
start at $89 a night, an employee said as we peered into some that had just
been vacated and were being cleaned.</div>
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Old artsy signs, neon and not, abound on the roadside – many
having outlived their businesses. A former laundry building has one depicting a
housewife doing her washing in a round tub.</div>
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One motel has a sign declaring that Clint Eastwood stayed
there. </div>
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A roadside café has half an airplane nestled against its
side wall.</div>
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And there’s three miles of this kitsch! Even an Edsel! (Come
to think, why not an Edsel? It’s a perfect touch.)</div>
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We spent the noontime hour there as Bonnie took dozens of
pictures, and then bid adieu (or maybe adios) to New Mexico, hopping back onto
Interstate 40 and heading into the Texas panhandle – the narrowest part of the
Lone Star State.</div>
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<h3>
<i><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cadillac, VW
graveyards and a giant cross</b></i></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two graffiti painters add their touches to buried Caddies.</td></tr>
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One of the best-known quirky attractions in Texas is the
Cadillac Ranch, just off Interstate 40 west of Amarillo. It is a line of
Cadillac automobiles half-buried hood-down in a pasture, baking under an
unforgiving sun on the Wednesday after Memorial Day. Not a holiday, not a
weekend… and we were stunned to find a steady stream of a couple dozen gawkers
and graffiti painters walking about a tenth of mile in from the frontage
roadway parking area.</div>
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With shifting winds, it was difficult to avoid the fumes of spray-painters' efforts. Graffiti is encouraged. Even the old barbed-wire pasture
fence has been painted. In a sense, whatever anyone paints on the cars may last
forever – but under layers of graffiti added by other visitors. Who knows how
long this bizarre display will survive, but I imagine that after a century or
two of paint layers, the Cadillac frames will have grown larger.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Slug Bug jalopy adds artistic touch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beetles planted at Slug Bug Ranch</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Our next stop was a spoof of Cadillac Ranch about 20 miles east of Amarillo, near the
community of Conway. It is called the Slug Bug Ranch, for a row of five dead
Volkswagen Beetles similarly buried and adorned with layers of graffiti. But
there’s also several buildings of a former fuel stop bearing wacky messages,
and back in a grassy field an old pickup truck – its hood popped open – under
the rotting canopy of a long-abandoned Texaco garage. </div>
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For visual punning, there was the ruins of an old Shell
station, a shell of its former self.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Cross rises over Stations of the Cross.</td></tr>
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Further east, in the town of Groom, we found religion – a
19-story cross reputed to be the second-biggest in the Western Hemisphere,
standing almost like a sundial surrounded by metal sculptures depicting the
Stations of the Cross. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Climb a nearby stairway to find a recreation of Christ’s
tomb watched over by a pair of angels.</div>
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On a blistering hot day, it was a relief to check out the
center of the property featuring a religion-themed fountain, and an
air-conditioned building with a gift shop, divinely clean restrooms, and a
230-seat movie theater screening an eight-minute inspirational film. I peeked
inside and found not a single soul, just empty seats. Jesus!</div>
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<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b> </b></i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i><b> </b></i></h3>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<i>Texas over and done, quickly! </i></h3>
<br />
<br />
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The Panhandle is just 177 miles wide, so we reached Oklahoma
by 6 p.m. (even after losing an hour, since crossing into Texas we had entered
the Central Time Zone and lost an hour). And 40 miles later, we pulled into Elk
City and found our next Holiday Inn Express – this one extraordinarily
luxurious, and free for our stay (at a bargain surrender of 15,000 reward
points).</div>
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<br /></div>
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After sharing a steak dinner at a nearby sports bar and
grill, called Boomtown, we settled into our executive king room (an upgrade
over the standard twin-double afforded us Platinum Rewards members when
available) and expected to watch a late-night comedy show. But none was being
aired over the local network affiliates. Instead, we were treated to dramatic
live coverage of a string of violent storms sweeping southeasterly 30 to 40
miles north of Elk City.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Amazing to watch the coverage as the TV stations had crews
broadcasting the view through windshields as they drove into the storms. The
weather anchors were giving minute-by-minute storm tracks, warning of cyclonic
action, winds of 60 to 90 mph, and the possibility of hail the size of baseballs.
One road crew told of hail hits cracking the windshield, and showed an image of
a car perhaps two-tenths of mile in front of them spinning around in the middle
of the road before the driver luckily regained control.</div>
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There were indications the storms could reach Interstate 40,
closer to Oklahoma City – one of our planned destinations for Thursday
afternoon. But by morning, there was no alarming news about the overnight
drama. Just another weather day in Oklahoma, I guess.</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><b>Next chapter: A few stops in a very wide state, OK? </b></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-46267512031379364222018-05-30T00:36:00.001-04:002018-05-30T00:48:56.026-04:00On the Road Again, Chapter 9<br />
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz4PcOl3TUwp88lnwitI7N4BJhAXIsMH0aL0c_7gKFBFO0metSCGpvhA6yo35XX_N5v9mSQq6drCcxoq6F_jq2n-EdEeLdV532aFgGz5bqi6ptk79ehzg2fezWNlXWBG86OAhDmPs9Ns0/s1600/z-MAY_3435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz4PcOl3TUwp88lnwitI7N4BJhAXIsMH0aL0c_7gKFBFO0metSCGpvhA6yo35XX_N5v9mSQq6drCcxoq6F_jq2n-EdEeLdV532aFgGz5bqi6ptk79ehzg2fezWNlXWBG86OAhDmPs9Ns0/s400/z-MAY_3435.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strangers meet in Meow Wolf's House of Eternal Return bathroom.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Our own Santa Fe Trail</span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">leads to strange worlds,</span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">reunion with a dear friend</span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The path of our road trip has been defined, in part, by
seeing old friends, and the big turn south and east from the San Francisco area
was really about getting to Santa Fe. That’s home to a friend dating back a bit
over 40 years, Parris McBride.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
She doesn’t spend much time with email, and isn’t on
Facebook, but she knew we might turn up on her doorstep this week. Having not
heard back from my latest email message, we pulled up in front of her home that
we last visited about 12 years ago. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In one respect, the timing wasn’t great – just half an hour
earlier, she had received word of the death of a dear friend back east, science
fiction editor and writer Gardner Dozois. And she was awaiting the return of
her husband George, who had been away working on and off for a few months. So
we sat in their TV room, chatting for an hour, finding out about how our
respective families and mutual friends were doing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In an odd sort of way, Parris played a role in my marriage
to Bonnie. She was among a cast of characters living in my eight-bedroom
Baltimore townhouse known as “Toad Hall” back in the late 1970s. I was
interested in her, but she introduced me to her best friend, who eventually
became my second ex-wife (but we’re still friends!) just in time for Bonnie – a
neighbor early in my first marriage – to turn up again. It’s part of the string
of circumstance that against enormous odds creates futures.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They’ve both been busy for close to a decade, since George
hit it big in the literary and television world… you’ve probably heard of him,
George R.R. Martin. Before his Game of Thrones books and the HBO series based
on it, George was not widely known – even in Santa Fe. Now he is a considerable
part of the local economy.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A new project is the <a href="https://www.stagecoachfdn.org/">Stagecoach Foundation</a>. As Parris
explained it, a wealthy, terminally-ill Santa Fe businessman donated the office
building that had housed his former company to George to “do something.”
George, in meeting with the millionaire, found he was living in the house on
Stagecoach Lane formerly owned by his late friend and fellow science
fiction/fantasy writer Roger Zelazny (who for several years lived in the Baltimore area). Hence the name of the foundation,
established last year.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The building is used as low-cost office space for film and
TV productions being made in Santa Fe and across New Mexico, and training and
job development in the industry for young people – particularly in underserved
and native populations. The project is making up for government cutbacks to
subsidies for filmmaking projects under the state’s current Republican
administration. And Parris has gotten involved in politics, supporting a
Democratic gubernatorial candidate in the upcoming primary election.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHJtWZipjhwehCPYzD95C9vT0X4T3KQz4eRC7jMkNrmnuNo9LXfFWQYI7dr-nsx0c_kpLaXKumX80aLKRP0oUxgvaK7BWbolrYPoEuipcuTDJmJ8qwtymUcrDfy3rZtsdXhXpvSpwtwUk/s1600/IMG_8242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHJtWZipjhwehCPYzD95C9vT0X4T3KQz4eRC7jMkNrmnuNo9LXfFWQYI7dr-nsx0c_kpLaXKumX80aLKRP0oUxgvaK7BWbolrYPoEuipcuTDJmJ8qwtymUcrDfy3rZtsdXhXpvSpwtwUk/s320/IMG_8242.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie sitting in an alternative reality kitchen at Meow Wolf.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another aspect of George’s local impact is called <a href="https://meowwolf.com/">Meow Wolf</a>.
It is an interactive immersion into a fantasy world created by an artist
collective in a long-vacant bowling alley that George purchased for the project
and renovated. He calls himself their landlord. Meow Wolf took two years to
build, and in its second year of operation has become one of New Mexico’s top
tourist attractions. An expectation of perhaps 30,000 visitors in the first
year in reality became 400,000.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(And
there’s a possibility, George said, for Meow Wolf installations in Denver and
Las Vegas.)</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4w6VmvCi6DzKAoGZyyoXb1jrqItz-joEE_FLhPK96iyGowp5tFZiUCe3jNWpi6BpS9G-WFLjrVDkKSbYi1WLLMvi79jTrvGR8QjzZ0q9UTtXCIW8uam0Lcmd4W-yrNVVpZoqLWdLxXUY/s1600/Z-MAY_3432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1433" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4w6VmvCi6DzKAoGZyyoXb1jrqItz-joEE_FLhPK96iyGowp5tFZiUCe3jNWpi6BpS9G-WFLjrVDkKSbYi1WLLMvi79jTrvGR8QjzZ0q9UTtXCIW8uam0Lcmd4W-yrNVVpZoqLWdLxXUY/s200/Z-MAY_3432.jpg" width="190" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering a Meow Wolf portal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On Memorial Day, we arrived about noon to find a line nearly
half a block long – and that was for people who, like us, had purchased tickets
online ($23 for out-of-state seniors). There was a slightly longer line for
those buying tickets at the door. A Meow Wolf staffer said it would have been
worse had we arrived at the 10 a.m. opening time, because the line then was
more than twice as long.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meow Wolf is sort of a multi-dimensional, other-worldly,
family-friendly fun house that takes hours, or even days, to explore. There is
inside the huge former bowling alley an entire house whose fictional family,
and even the children’s hamster, had vanished, and visitors can search for
clues to their disappearance in letters, scraps of notes, physical evidence of
all sorts. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIsScroGGJD4D0x1PGILI6JvhMCkfnWkaZf52RoNMFipLIttwPcm4zWhCofelYDLX3jbX7yS_rQv58eIlLcvH3E1M610yS7-dgrsZP7bYy0-HPhTeza7x_tYZvzS5urlowVhR4Pe_TEo/s1600/IMG_8219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIsScroGGJD4D0x1PGILI6JvhMCkfnWkaZf52RoNMFipLIttwPcm4zWhCofelYDLX3jbX7yS_rQv58eIlLcvH3E1M610yS7-dgrsZP7bYy0-HPhTeza7x_tYZvzS5urlowVhR4Pe_TEo/s200/IMG_8219.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I may have found the missing hamster.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The house has hidden passages leading to other rooms and
other worlds, in what seemed a strange cross between the TV series “Stranger
Things” and the movie “Beetlejuice.” And for an extra dollar, you can buy 3-D
glasses to enhance the experience in many areas of the maze.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can climb through
the door of a refrigerator in the kitchen, or disappear down a narrow slide
through the door of a clothes dryer. And, if you like, interact with strangers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There was a passageway I saw from an upper-level platform,
but Bonnie called me away to look at something else. Then I couldn’t find my
passageway. I’d lost it, or imagined it. But I really think it was there. I’m
not crazy! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIryISgAy6Meu1ldRC62dlw6lJ9cFFLF74fE1oxmeaDfnaIqAIGtyHeqXHnMwohO6txnovPYua69MCuFzKgdCp1iaZbBeEJKmDFfNJrwX7tmDtrEnUxzUAX28o2B1frK4JHLP0DpoeC4/s1600/IMG_8234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIryISgAy6Meu1ldRC62dlw6lJ9cFFLF74fE1oxmeaDfnaIqAIGtyHeqXHnMwohO6txnovPYua69MCuFzKgdCp1iaZbBeEJKmDFfNJrwX7tmDtrEnUxzUAX28o2B1frK4JHLP0DpoeC4/s200/IMG_8234.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the room of eyeballs, only a few are human.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rooms lead to other rooms, corridors, adventures and
distractions. Play a Theremin by stroking or moving through red laser beams.
Lie back in a room of giant eyeballs (not all of them human). Sit in a green
room absorbing the sound of an electronic hum. Take a nap on the bed in a
child’s room, maybe even coax a stranger to join you there. Play percussion on
the bones of a mastodon. It gets weird. It’s a high-tech “choose your own
adventure” in which you are unlikely to find an ending, except for exhaustion
from imagination and sensory overload.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bonnie felt the exhaustion after five hours of wandering,
but I had to see one more room – the arcade, with an assortment of video games
and, in a back corner, one of my favorite pinball machines, Attack from Mars,
which I last played in a bar we found in Anchorage, Alaska, about this time
last year.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But we had to leave – in need of a little relaxation before meeting Parris
and George for dinner. We had a feast at an Asian fusion restaurant that was
terrific, and talked some more about our lives, friends, and business. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LtWXEOyQ7JnMM4kuEh4xqXqvUzGo3Ek9A66tLKj-0GyOHScBn08LKtrSYh0Av3YTZRDFOAGzF57oNBz_SSz6wYLgTtVEACa9FKAfWsYQy1Yk_jE0iQefjtSancAiB6I6HxH0lRd0SNo/s1600/z-MAY_3530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LtWXEOyQ7JnMM4kuEh4xqXqvUzGo3Ek9A66tLKj-0GyOHScBn08LKtrSYh0Av3YTZRDFOAGzF57oNBz_SSz6wYLgTtVEACa9FKAfWsYQy1Yk_jE0iQefjtSancAiB6I6HxH0lRd0SNo/s320/z-MAY_3530.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">George R.R. Martin and Parris McBride</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was curious about what George viewed as a key turning
point in his life, that in the ensuing decades brought him fame and fortune. He
had earned a master’s degree, with honors, in journalism from Northwestern
University, but despite a hundred applications could not land a newspaper job.
He was even turned down for a job in the comic book industry. But then he sold
several short stories, and turned to writing science fiction. He’s also taught
writing and journalism at a Catholic girls’ college in the Midwest.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few years after our last visit, the dragons hatched. The
Game of Thrones book series got noticed, books became best-sellers, and HBO’s
series rocketed into pop culture. I remember seeing George on TV a couple of
years ago at the Emmy Awards, where an usher handed him a typewriter – a gentle
jab as fans were clamoring for him to finish the next book in the series. On
stage, parody icon Weird Al Yankovic was singing to the tune of the “Thrones” theme
music, “write it faster, write it faster.” George looked strangely at the
typewriter in his lap, as if some alien device had fallen there from the sky.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had to know whether that was planned or spontaneous.
Parris said she had stepped out to the theater lobby for a break and missed it.
And George, who had been sitting a few seats into the row, suspected something
was up when he was moved to a spot on the aisle. In the back of his mind was
the thought that he might have won an Emmy. Instead, it was a little humorous
mockery.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqixPml3zxXIsUkPQtQsmw5dIV_jYx-OOyQ_b-6IpjI4l9YMhyPK7uKtG896KZAZVLYMa1APV1EKBoFdPhIBpsGSXdq4RPTfBXCkt2lzMIGG6hrECKfT15h4Yv_DshURAYGlg-9GHq6gw/s1600/z-MAY_3520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1588" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqixPml3zxXIsUkPQtQsmw5dIV_jYx-OOyQ_b-6IpjI4l9YMhyPK7uKtG896KZAZVLYMa1APV1EKBoFdPhIBpsGSXdq4RPTfBXCkt2lzMIGG6hrECKfT15h4Yv_DshURAYGlg-9GHq6gw/s200/z-MAY_3520.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmy and Dragon </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But he’s got a few of the pretty statuettes, one of them
standing on a table in the hallway entrance at home next to a sculpture of a
three-headed dragon.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In his wildest dreams, George said, he could not have imagined
the extent of his success. But with it has come demands on his time, meetings to
discuss future TV projects, business ventures and other projects, and the
pressure to spin out the rest of the Westeros story. It’s nearly summer in Santa
Fe, and the world wants the winter emerging letter by letter, line by line,
from George’s fingertips.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I didn’t ask the question of when winter is coming. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBwVw12kXWOXGFUoJBXoiLAUZ5v6pVkBa1epQeAqR79Q1wsaOeesefrLR8B87eOxWtng52gXQv8UC_Kxi8zC_pkuuYZHTNbhyZdRDWZZzqZTPfVXur1WH3JXr7gNkYw_SQNqRkXaGbFv4/s1600/Z-IMG_8250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBwVw12kXWOXGFUoJBXoiLAUZ5v6pVkBa1epQeAqR79Q1wsaOeesefrLR8B87eOxWtng52gXQv8UC_Kxi8zC_pkuuYZHTNbhyZdRDWZZzqZTPfVXur1WH3JXr7gNkYw_SQNqRkXaGbFv4/s320/Z-IMG_8250.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, trying out Game of Thrones pinball</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Instead, after dinner, Parris drove us up the street to a
house they had bought for guest space (in addition to a third house across the
street used as an office). She introduced us to their limited edition Game of
Thrones pinball machine. The theme music plays, and character voices are heard
as flippers launch the silver balls into a compelling electronic wonderland.</div>
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<i><b>Next chapter: Homeward bound </b></i></div>
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-75113978026465497222018-05-28T20:28:00.002-04:002018-05-28T20:28:45.614-04:00On The Road Again, Chapter 8<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzTOQCPFxhueIiadlMSI2D0SamSbX8GRd41aaWieaLm_aC2BZe80hKeIqwasOq-s2bMkADuOK4UzNVtx1EmD46SHwiN0rQ4ycW_bF2dOfFpy47HOD0dLhEo8QdhFe-n_bvsfGx9d6lOY/s1600/33661822_10155330163682111_2224277972490125312_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzTOQCPFxhueIiadlMSI2D0SamSbX8GRd41aaWieaLm_aC2BZe80hKeIqwasOq-s2bMkADuOK4UzNVtx1EmD46SHwiN0rQ4ycW_bF2dOfFpy47HOD0dLhEo8QdhFe-n_bvsfGx9d6lOY/s400/33661822_10155330163682111_2224277972490125312_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An arrow of outrageous fortune along Route 66 (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>A waterless waterpark</b></span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>and other attractions</b></span></h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>in California, Arizona</b></span></h2>
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<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>Quirky kicks along the path of Route 66</b></i></span></h3>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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The winds picked up gradually on a long day’s drive southeasterly
from Petaluma, crossing vast stretches of sparsely populated land – and was at
times howling by the time we stopped for the night in Barstow, Calif. And it
damn near crippled me.</div>
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Getting ready to unload the car near the entrance of the
local Holiday Inn Express & Suites, I turned, car key in right hand, to
walk into the lobby when what felt like a curb tripped me. Gravity happens
fast, and I landed on both knees, my right elbow and the left palm that kept my
head from meeting concrete. The wind had blown a large rubber mat behind my
right foot. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Nothing broken, just pain in four places… and hope that the
IHG folks thank me for being so nice and not calling a lawyer. (Like refunding
the 20,000 reward points I surrendered for a free night, hint hint….) In the
windy conditions so prevalent on the high desert, the mat should not have been
left outside. The hotel staff was very apologetic, and the mat was removed…
hopefully to stay inside the entrance doors in the future.</div>
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That said, the motel was excellent.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPNyvv0G7h67lEuWGgmoXXWOtu1Bw9w9L9MCFC6T3DULnHSNHhyySejMAVdC3qdiR16G8_wKD-uI15DMgIjID6KlrBtrpTp0vnpXmG9aBOGDsJYIgu4-SL6n3wqyrmCmKZ4bGUbORu28/s1600/z-DSCN7243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPNyvv0G7h67lEuWGgmoXXWOtu1Bw9w9L9MCFC6T3DULnHSNHhyySejMAVdC3qdiR16G8_wKD-uI15DMgIjID6KlrBtrpTp0vnpXmG9aBOGDsJYIgu4-SL6n3wqyrmCmKZ4bGUbORu28/s200/z-DSCN7243.jpg" width="200" /></a>In the morning, we took a little detour in search of a final
dose of California amusement in Barstow (Mad Max-style “vehicles from hell” created
from wreck parts by a now-dead body shop owner), and then north of the city off
Interstate 15, an abandoned water park on a parched back road near the Mohave
Desert community of Newberry Springs.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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The strange assortment of horror vehicles remain behind a
locked fence on private property adjacent to an RV park, so Bonnie was limited
to photographing them by shooting through and above the metal enclosure.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIE1m7B6AsDWM5NGGI8hnuE9Jklve6KhVrSxFNIfYR5eM6MnNtY18AKb8XtzRNusp-kUIreIwTsVa9lvuJp_6ZYDaPxunP2I7TTxyAoy_SHa9Rl8GVcIgvOeS4NEWa-xBAx0-3CXAXbY/s1600/MAY_3392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIE1m7B6AsDWM5NGGI8hnuE9Jklve6KhVrSxFNIfYR5eM6MnNtY18AKb8XtzRNusp-kUIreIwTsVa9lvuJp_6ZYDaPxunP2I7TTxyAoy_SHa9Rl8GVcIgvOeS4NEWa-xBAx0-3CXAXbY/s400/MAY_3392.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The waterpark is a ghost town, bone dry and abandoned -- and photogenic.</td></tr>
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We fared much better at the abandoned Lake Dolores Rock-a-Hoola
Water Park, which had opened and closed a couple of times since the 1960s, and went
out of business in 2004. Since then, the billboards and structures that housed
rides and concessions have decayed and given way to trespassing graffiti artists.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTGUFSV_KuDJFUwyZyf2Y7rhMU_2LjxJZ32D0zaz9Rp5oZOznLm5lyk35_mCTVWgUSp2XFavyRKr1lzq437hOzZZU4aN6zvzEwhKRQeEY58ShC7x4ADLVwetuTB4OCrCLQobDgWx0MHA/s1600/33532229_10155327984772111_1185696954093404160_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTGUFSV_KuDJFUwyZyf2Y7rhMU_2LjxJZ32D0zaz9Rp5oZOznLm5lyk35_mCTVWgUSp2XFavyRKr1lzq437hOzZZU4aN6zvzEwhKRQeEY58ShC7x4ADLVwetuTB4OCrCLQobDgWx0MHA/s200/33532229_10155327984772111_1185696954093404160_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Concession window at Rock-a-Hoola water(less) park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The water slide has been adorned with a slope of rocks, and pools are as dry as
the climate. It’s eerie, and fascinating – and pretty much open to trespassers,
several of whom were shooting photos when we arrived. Bonnie took pictures for
more than an hour. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjinQMtMnJ1PP5y07Hcn5msxRMOeZxlaZC9XHvLt1JsujhD33Gq21Av-y_XBO_KNUc0GMuFyddMbHrPGg6qk6VTA3m4_lC6VgxTOInksjh7Byors3tepCMv8uTUtEJxVDKpzhGAawF1T0w/s1600/z-MAY_3381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjinQMtMnJ1PP5y07Hcn5msxRMOeZxlaZC9XHvLt1JsujhD33Gq21Av-y_XBO_KNUc0GMuFyddMbHrPGg6qk6VTA3m4_lC6VgxTOInksjh7Byors3tepCMv8uTUtEJxVDKpzhGAawF1T0w/s200/z-MAY_3381.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Even the dusty two-mile stretch of road off the interstate
had its own ghost, of sorts – a burned-out A-frame building with a large red-painted
cross above what used to be the front door. Perhaps it was a church. Inside,
there was evidence of its later use, bedsprings and a circle of stones around
the remains of a campfire. The ample graffiti includes a large message: Gotta be
a Sinner to be a Saint.</div>
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One thing the area needed, though, was better highway signs.
We drove back to I-15 and headed some 20 miles south back to Barstow in order
to reach Interstate 40 – only to find as we then headed east an exit for Newberry
Springs that could have saved us at least 50 miles of driving. But at least we
were headed in the right direction, and after about 130 miles of mostly desert
scenery later crossed the state line. </div>
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We called it a day at a Days Inn, in Kingman, Arizona.,
about $70 cheaper than the Holiday Inn Express. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no AAA discount – its contract had
been discontinued, the owner said, but then offered an even better AARP discount
even though we aren’t members. It was clean, relatively comfortable, and included
a modest continental breakfast. Some nights, luxury be damned.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cruising Arizona</b></div>
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When you’re a fan of the bizarre, it’s impossible to drive
quickly across Arizona – particularly on I-40, which runs parallel to and
sometimes overtakes the quirky old U.S. Route 66. The interstate took away much
of the business from the motels, restaurants, gas stations and trading posts
that lined the old highway, and are now largely abandoned. In many spots, the
oddball remains are luring people back, if only long enough to walk around and
take pictures.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cliff dwellings are visible in walls of Walnut Canyon.</td></tr>
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Our first stop, though, after a bigger breakfast in the town
of Williams, was Walnut Canyon National Monument. It seemed a chance to make
use of our lifetime seniors national park pass, but the usual admission price
of about $10 had been waived because of extreme fire danger closing a major
walking trail. We took a three-quarter-mile stroll along the open rim trail,
where ample signs identified trees and plants, explaining how they were used by
the Native Americans who had inhabited the area centuries ago. And visible, distantly,
from the canyon rim were cliff dwelling remains on the other side.</div>
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We had another alternative, of course – taking one of the
roads leading to the Grand Canyon. But on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend,
that huge attraction would obviously have been crowded, and we’d been there
before. Instead we got a little canyon, nicely managed by national park
rangers, and were back on the road an hour later.</div>
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The quirky fun included stops at ghostly remains of the Route
66 heydays at Twin Arrows and Two Guns, which are about five miles apart and
just off Interstate 40.</div>
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Twin Arrows was a fuel stop and trading post back in the
day, but the gas station and café are abandoned, decaying and, of course,
decorated with graffiti. And there are two giant wooden arrows, their tips seemingly
stuck in the ground. Nice picture, but whoa! – we watched a pretty young woman stretch
out on the ground as if the arrow had taken her life, while her boyfriend took
pictures of the scene.</div>
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So I couldn’t resist my own version, lying down with my legs
spread and the huge arrow seeming to have hit an unspeakable target. It was one
awful splinter! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oh, not that! Trying to
get up after Bonnie took a few shots, I tried holding onto the sides of the
arrow to pull myself up and got a splinter in my finger. Call it suffering for
art!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrTjDVLmdWnxAwEuk5uIeRlLKKjQhnLPqIxmC6wD2QEfLYhx1MnwDlx7PZb3YaENxXGPPQs5NceLFBVTkgU3GXJWNuOB_lXVysLGDM6IWSw8yYmyJ6DTIzYTSoXDULafsPfqPhXrJr_8/s1600/IMG_8115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrTjDVLmdWnxAwEuk5uIeRlLKKjQhnLPqIxmC6wD2QEfLYhx1MnwDlx7PZb3YaENxXGPPQs5NceLFBVTkgU3GXJWNuOB_lXVysLGDM6IWSw8yYmyJ6DTIzYTSoXDULafsPfqPhXrJr_8/s400/IMG_8115.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie and I cavorting in the swimming pool at Two Guns. (Photo by a stranger)</td></tr>
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Two Guns was more elaborate. It once had a campground, pool,
restaurant, gas station, and even a display of live mountain lions. Bumpy dirt,
gravel and asphalt lanes make it possible to drive around the complex, park and
get out to appreciate the remains of it all, including an archway bearing the
words Mountain Lions. And down the steps behind the arch are two cages where
the lions were kept.</div>
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Driving along the highway, there are so many sights that you
just can’t stop for all of them, so we passed up Meteor Crater. But we did stop
in Winslow, a town we had passed through many years ago. I just wanted to stand
on a corner and take it easy for a few minutes.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With new friends Karen and Dave</td></tr>
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Lots of other people had the same idea, so I tried to assemble
a crowd of standees for a group photo. But the angle of the bright sun did not
help, so I walked across the street and found Karen and Dave (Santa
Swanny) Swanson of Chula Vista, Calif. (he works for the San Diego Maritime Museum to support his Santa Claus habit, and, like Bonnie, she's a retired middle school teacher). </div>
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They were doing what you do on a corner in Winslow, Arizona. So we took
pictures of each other and all of us together, had some laughs and then headed
our separate ways. But we exchanged cards first. I suspect we’ll be in touch
again!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrTjDVLmdWnxAwEuk5uIeRlLKKjQhnLPqIxmC6wD2QEfLYhx1MnwDlx7PZb3YaENxXGPPQs5NceLFBVTkgU3GXJWNuOB_lXVysLGDM6IWSw8yYmyJ6DTIzYTSoXDULafsPfqPhXrJr_8/s1600/IMG_8115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrTjDVLmdWnxAwEuk5uIeRlLKKjQhnLPqIxmC6wD2QEfLYhx1MnwDlx7PZb3YaENxXGPPQs5NceLFBVTkgU3GXJWNuOB_lXVysLGDM6IWSw8yYmyJ6DTIzYTSoXDULafsPfqPhXrJr_8/s320/IMG_8115.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There was yet one more stop, in the community of Houck, as we
neared the Arizona-New Mexico border. It was a dirt road lined with weathered
billboards, mostly for a now-closed trading post on the other side of the
interstate. They were, in a sense, American and Native American art objects in
their ruined state, and spoke of bygone days. One even pitched taking
pictures – with Kodak film.</div>
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Bonnie shot it with, of course, her digital camera.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RK8N9kNxDmfSpR0sAymjnXQqq9tlXyfc13rRHDk-xuGwUZcS1WKLgN7oDZ0V_BCtXN9GuwL4n04Rr4hbXaD5TTBfyO10jSlSIWhV8sa10nfX65T6vMkIZ4LVj03Z6MhwOb5zmRHbPEI/s1600/z-DSCN7317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="1341" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RK8N9kNxDmfSpR0sAymjnXQqq9tlXyfc13rRHDk-xuGwUZcS1WKLgN7oDZ0V_BCtXN9GuwL4n04Rr4hbXaD5TTBfyO10jSlSIWhV8sa10nfX65T6vMkIZ4LVj03Z6MhwOb5zmRHbPEI/s320/z-DSCN7317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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About 40 minutes later, we checked in at what might be the
most luxurious Holiday Inn Express & Suites in America, in Gallup, New
Mexico. We had made the reservation by phone from the car, burning up 20,000
more reward points. As a “platinum member” I asked if an upgrade were
available, and we ended up with a king executive suite so spacious it had a long,
curving work desk. And the just-baked chocolate chip cookies in the lobby were
scrumptious!</div>
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<b>Next chapter: Our Santa Fe trail</b></div>
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-61373492937777106952018-05-27T02:35:00.000-04:002018-05-27T02:35:04.064-04:00On The Road Again, Chapter 7<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
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table.MsoNormalTable
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mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
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mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ix4cDPQNBJcPCdbz_Sw_JnaEQ9Ro4DEKu7eRuAB4hkJMge_y8JlJzblgJub5wBZSCDNgTtiZxEXUkeY6e1C5qhrIcoKdC-W4bMQCzfU-tL735Iue8-wbc6ZDmimENS0JGIMDF2DpIAY/s1600/33469265_10155323508812111_5059646301331783680_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ix4cDPQNBJcPCdbz_Sw_JnaEQ9Ro4DEKu7eRuAB4hkJMge_y8JlJzblgJub5wBZSCDNgTtiZxEXUkeY6e1C5qhrIcoKdC-W4bMQCzfU-tL735Iue8-wbc6ZDmimENS0JGIMDF2DpIAY/s400/33469265_10155323508812111_5059646301331783680_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Golden Gate Bridge (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Reaching the Pacific,</b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>it was easy to see why</b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>people love San Francisco</b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b> </b></span></h2>
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Horace Greeley said it well: “Go west, young man….” I’m not
exactly young, but along with Bonnie we reached the Pacific Ocean this week to
complete the outbound portion of our coast-to-coast road trip.</div>
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The last leg took us some 275 miles from Fallon, Nevada
(about 60 miles east of Reno) to Petaluma, Calif., home to a friend we visited
for two days. We first met Elaine Harvey Ellsworth through our mutual membership
in the international peace organization Servas, through which traveling members
stay free for two nights or longer in the homes of host members – long enough
to get to know each other and build understanding at a grassroots one-to-one
level.</div>
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Elaine was traveling with a friend from Germany, Lena, and
they stayed in our home southeast of Baltimore. Later, we visited Lena in
Germany – and now we were visiting Elaine. Servas travel doesn’t always work
out like an exchange, as we do not maintain contact with many of the people who
have visited us over nearly four decades from various countries in Europe, Asia,
and the South Pacific, as well as the United States.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elaine, David and Bonnie</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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So we got a tour of Petaluma, whose countryside and vineyard
attractions make it a tourist draw, and to Elaine (who grew up in the Baltimore
area!) a nice place to live for the past eight years or so. Then she directed
my driving on a tour of San Francisco – through funky neighborhoods and to the
highest viewpoint, known as Twin Peaks.</div>
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First stop, though, was the viewing area on the north side
of the Golden Gate Bridge, before we crossed it into the city. Bonnie and I had
been there a couple of decades ago, but the sight is ever-changing with the fog
sometimes obscuring the bridge, skyline or both. (A high school classmate who lives
in the area and is a noted professional photographer has aimed his camera there
countless times… it seems to never get old.)</div>
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We crossed the bridge – mystified at how to pay the boothless
toll. Did our Marylander EZPass transponder cover us? Have to check on that eventually.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie's favorite painting in Casanova show.</td></tr>
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We took the first exit in the city, heading through the
Presidio national park (and former military base), heading for the nearby
Legion of Honor fine arts museum in Lincoln Park where Elaine is a member and
can take one guest inside. She took Bonnie first, for a quick look including
its soon-to-end exhibition, “Casanova: The Seduction of Europe.” It included an
array of 18<sup>th</sup> century art, much of it a tad risqué… at least by
period standards. (Have to wonder what those folks would have thought about
Cinemax After Dark.)</div>
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Then it was my turn, and I added a peek at the museum’s
collection of impressionist art (not nearly as big or spectacular as the
Baltimore Museum of Art’s Cone Collection). </div>
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In the museum’s outdoor courtyard sits Rodin’s “The Thinker”
– and it seemed a lot more powerful and even larger than the BMA’s twin, which was
moved indoors years ago because of damage attributed to acid rain.” </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">George Segal's Holocaust memorial sculpture</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Also on the park property is a Holocaust memorial by artist George
Segal in white-painted bronze, presenting a male figure standing at a barbed
wire fence and, behind him, symbolic star-patterned bodies of victims spread in
various poses. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(The powerful work has
been vandalized several times since its installation there three decades ago.)</div>
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Another early stop in the city was the Cliff House area, where
a restaurant and gift shop occupy the site of the mansions (two of them destroyed
by fires) of the late millionaire Adolph Sutro, overlooking a stretch of ocean
beach and the ruins of the elaborate Sutro Baths swimming facility.</div>
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The parking lots and curb areas have warning signs about
frequent car break-ins, so everything we were not carrying got stuffed into the
trunk. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Policeman takes report from Cliff House car break-in victim.</td></tr>
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Afterr walking around the paths overlooking the graffiti-decorated
ruins, we headed for Cliff House and found several police officers talking to a
family whose SUV was now missing a back window and whatever of seeming value had
been left in the vehicle. Talk about blatant theft – in daylight, nearly in
front of the building entrance and while a young woman was selling jewelry from
the back of her vehicle several spaces away.</div>
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Bonnie had been researching the city’s entries in our travel
bible, RoadsideAmerica.com, and directed us to a neighborhood called Hayes
Valley to see a comic book store with a collection of illustrated toilet bowl
seats. (I know, it’s crazy to drive thousands of miles across the country to
seek out a collection of toilet seats – but that’s the kind of thing we do!)</div>
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But first we sought a late lunch at a nearby French-style café.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bonnie and Elaine got seated while I
looked for a legal parking space… one that would cost less than $3.50 an hour
at the meter, and was not in a 4 p.m. tow-away zone. It took nearly half an
hour. During my search, I spotted a shabbily-dressed man looking into parked
vehicles and pulling a red window-smashing tool from his pocket. I stared at
him, and he stepped away from one vehicle, and I watched in my rear-view mirror
as he cased a vehicle further down the street.</div>
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The space I found was about five blocks away, with its
designated space number on the curb and a machine to pay the 75 cents-an-hour
fee. It does not dispense an actual parking slip, so how it is enforced is as
much a mystery as the bridge toll. I followed somewhat confusing instructions, then
identified my spot as Space 5, and was informed that the space “expires at 5:15
p.m.” So I figured it was free. Walking to the restaurant, I began considering
the possibility that it was 3:15 p.m., and maybe the machine was simply indicating
my space was in a two-hour limit area. Hmmm. But I wasn’t walking back to cough
up a buck fifty. I was hungry. And the café was terrific.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Sime points out his own depiction in a comic illustration.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPVpltRsiu8bMPYFjJITJVa95tWoWHimjKH-rshkCCPEzjEuOoy5aB-WvoJPf7ojSe9PlPYkdmTCIjFofHq-zkJbBS6PBMKy80qUsKbKIs4RSNWqkTh-9DyMOfTNWqMNIdEeVj7gSa9g/s1600/z-DSCN7208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPVpltRsiu8bMPYFjJITJVa95tWoWHimjKH-rshkCCPEzjEuOoy5aB-WvoJPf7ojSe9PlPYkdmTCIjFofHq-zkJbBS6PBMKy80qUsKbKIs4RSNWqkTh-9DyMOfTNWqMNIdEeVj7gSa9g/s200/z-DSCN7208.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artist-illustrated toilet seats</td></tr>
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Isotope Comics was little more than a block away on Fell
Street, and Bonnie took pictures as we talked with owner James Sime about the
odd collection – having more decorated toilet seats than he had room to
display. It started when a visiting comic book artist decorated the bathroom…
pretty much trashed it, as Sime described it. And that was the first of the artistic
comic-style seats and lids to go up on the wall. Other visiting artists got
into the act over time. The rule is that the artist must physically visit the
store to merit a toilet seat. Sime buys them from a plumbing supply source, but
you’d think he could write to the manufacturer, with pictures, and get a bunch
of freebies.</div>
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The proprietor, and especially his high-spiking hair, had a
slight resemblance to my comic artist friend Steve Stiles back in the Baltimore
area, and I mentioned it. (Hey, Steve – he knows who you are! All you have to
do is visit the shop and you can get a toilet seat on the wall!)</div>
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Other delights were found along and near narrow, mural-bedecked Linden Street
behind the comics store, including the Dark Garden shop specializing in women’s
corsets and other undergarments (Elaine was hoping to see a corset it produced
for Lada Gaga, but it was not in house), and Smitten Ice Cream – famous for
making its product on demand, using liquid nitrogen. A counter worker
demonstrated the technique and offered free tastes. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Twin Peaks</td></tr>
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Then it was a walk back to the car, where we found no
parking ticket – and then drove to Twin Peaks for the highest and widest view
of the city. Elaine and her former husband had previously lived in a house just
behind the Peaks, so she readily pointed the way from the back seat of our
Camry. And the view was spectacular, the damp fog and low clouds having given
way to sunshine.</div>
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Rush hour was well under way as we tried to check out a new
attraction outside the Moscone Center half an hour away (it was covered with a
tarp behind construction barriers, alas), and rode through a few other
neighbors including the bustling Haight-Ashberry of the turn-on, tune-in,
drop-out era of the 1960s and 70s. It was the most colorful neighborhood of our
visit, largely because of commercialization of the good old hippie days.</div>
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We left the city about 6:30 p.m., and were back at Elaine’s
home an hour later at exactly the time we’d planned, when her new male friend –
a Turkish-American who goes by the name Joe – was to arrive, having offered to
cook us a gourmet dinner. (He tells of having owned several restaurants over
the years, including one in Petaluma now operated by a family member.) And he
delivered! The food and conversation were terrific.</div>
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The next morning we had to depart. It was time to head south
and east across California, into Arizona and, a few days later, New Mexico for
other planned stops on the long drive back home. In case anyone was wondering, we
had already covered about 4,500 miles. My best guess when we left home was
8,000 miles total, so we were right on target so far.</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Next chapter: Crossing Arizona</i></b></div>
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-19677164407267423112018-05-25T11:45:00.001-04:002018-05-25T11:49:23.208-04:00On The Road Again, Chapter 6<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
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mso-para-margin-left:0in;
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<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNMxz1civRW8YaGiL-aN1_myN3BOiaMVxmDKnbaoSd1ftnYdndT7X8CBHjeYjuyh_5r0Qy8WFp0uOzvPJj5pqO-i7EkprwYr-HAloagRyfklBw5bqvzIBRhxYcnvpi7WVVFxky5UmUMQ/s1600/storm_MAY_3377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNMxz1civRW8YaGiL-aN1_myN3BOiaMVxmDKnbaoSd1ftnYdndT7X8CBHjeYjuyh_5r0Qy8WFp0uOzvPJj5pqO-i7EkprwYr-HAloagRyfklBw5bqvzIBRhxYcnvpi7WVVFxky5UmUMQ/s400/storm_MAY_3377.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Storm clouds over Highway 50 (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</b></span></h2>
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Crossing Nevada on</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></span></h2>
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</h2>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">the “loneliest road”</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span></span></h2>
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</div>
<h2 class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">amid some stormy weather</span></h2>
<br />
<h3>
<i><b>Downpour presents a free car wash.</b></i></h3>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some folks would likely prefer taking the high road west
from Utah, but Interstate 80 would have meant back-tracking – and besides, the
low road seemed to offer the unpredictability we enjoy. So we left Spanish Fork
heading for U.S. Highways 6 and 50, starting out with sunshine and fluffs of
beautiful white clouds.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiejLshJ87U6Vml4h-7qf8BS7IHU2_CbuTZECy7zM1n1zggKN6HvobO87IYYM8d573p6YtdteC0Pj12i2YiaQ70o8UPiLkkwGvKzi8CXnMyo4YBP15Abk-Xgnr9sH1h__5JEafcuB5HuB8/s1600/cowboy-David-IMG_7758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiejLshJ87U6Vml4h-7qf8BS7IHU2_CbuTZECy7zM1n1zggKN6HvobO87IYYM8d573p6YtdteC0Pj12i2YiaQ70o8UPiLkkwGvKzi8CXnMyo4YBP15Abk-Xgnr9sH1h__5JEafcuB5HuB8/s320/cowboy-David-IMG_7758.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not the other Sinclair, alas. Maybe someday.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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We soon found an old, deserted pumpless Sinclair gas station,
that was more like a big locked garage with the brand name above the door in
large-letter faded paint. It was a perfect setting for a photo, and a young
Mormon couple were already there with camera and tripod trying our angles and
poses (and a couple of kisses). They were from Salt Lake City, enjoying a
Sunday drive.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Then another couple stopped to admire and photograph the
structure… and they were from Munich, Germany.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Finally, Bonnie and I had our turn, and I posed wearing my new
white cowboy hat – the gift from Brian Rutledge that served me so well during
the rodeo. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I lowered my head for artistic
purposes, and Bonnie took several pictures.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Then we continued west as the clouds slowly darkened.
Nearing the Utah-Nevada border, we noticed what appeared to be a huge lake south
of the highway. But the closer the road and “water” converged, it became clear
this was an illusion. It was a former body of water gone dry, labeled on our map
as “Sevier Lake Dry.”</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7slUaQr5McRdVCXfufwAj15v_9jDoIFkk-1yQIxhBCiHN8SMVpG-oMlZ1YKfpt8YTneqRK6Zq5ekIverQ0lYgAoLosv-8NxNoabB3GsyiKSYG97IGznv3jUb2TRHhqDatj9H9bpPk3wE/s1600/33034143_10155317403632111_8368372192865419264_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7slUaQr5McRdVCXfufwAj15v_9jDoIFkk-1yQIxhBCiHN8SMVpG-oMlZ1YKfpt8YTneqRK6Zq5ekIverQ0lYgAoLosv-8NxNoabB3GsyiKSYG97IGznv3jUb2TRHhqDatj9H9bpPk3wE/s1600/33034143_10155317403632111_8368372192865419264_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sevier "lake" before the storm</b></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
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We walked across the “beach” on the edge of the “lake,” which
had a few tire tracks indicating some folks have a strange sense of
invulnerability. I can just imagine getting stuck in the middle! As we walked
back to our trusty Toyota Camry, there were distant booms and flashes of lightning…
time to get across the border.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Continuing westward through sporadic downpours, and having
not seen much in the way of accommodations, we decided to stop in the old
mining town of Ely (pronounced EEE-Lee). It had a grocery store, gas stations,
interesting artsy shops, several casinos and bars, and the historic Hotel
Nevada, which had a bar, casino and Denny’s restaurant downstairs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hotel Nevada</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The floors had small, but relatively nice rooms (king bed in ours) and tiny bathrooms with a
warning that given the age of the building (it opened in 1929), hot water might
be erratic. Mints on the dresser, even. The cost of just under $80 included coupons
for free breakfasts and two margaritas. There was a parking lot out back, but I
found a space by the curb nearly at the hotel entrance.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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We really lucked into getting the king room, because all of
them had been booked and the nice desk clerk gambled there would be a few
no-show cancellations. It was “race day” in the area, a twice-a-year event in
which amateur drivers test their high-speed mettle on a 60-mile stretch of highway
that police close for a day. They compete in various speed categories, in cars
ranging from antique sportscars to one parked by the side of the hotel – a stunningly
restored Corvette. Top speeds in the 120-mile down-and-back race reportedly
reached 165 mph.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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The Nevada has a walk of fame along the sidewalk, with
Hollywood-style stars bearing the names of such guests as Gary Cooper, Ingrid
Bergman, Jimmy Stewart and even Lyndon Johnson. (I’m guessing they stayed in
the pricier suites.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I spent an hour in the casino, trying various machines, and
ended up – after hitting a straight in poker – losing only two bucks.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At an antique store a few blocks from the hotel, I learned about the promotion of Nevada's stretch of Highway 50 as "the loneliest road in America.”
According to a Wikipedia entry, the name was bestowed by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Life</i> magazine in 1986 as a pejorative for its long desolate
stretches, but was seized upon as a marketing tool instead. There’s even a U.S.
50 “survival kit” distributed by merchants, but the places we looked for them
had all run out. Evidently, it features places to stop, and shop or see, and provides
for getting the booklet stamped at each. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Eureka's welcome sign</b></td></tr>
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And it was pretty desolate as we drove across several
mountain passes. One town where we stopped, Eureka, Nevada, had seen better days
in its mining era, but local folks were fixing up some storefronts and hoping
for a business boom in tourism. There’s a museum, an old opera house and old hotel
building, and a welcoming sign billing Eureka as “the friendliest town on the
loneliest road in America.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Near Hickison Summit (elev. 6,591 feet), we stopped to check
out a petroglyph site, but the ancient markings on walls of the slope were very
faint. Easier to find on our six-tenths of a mile walk was a modernist
petroglyph with a peace symbol and the words “Give Peace a Chance.”</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40DfOZAl0tl4ZXcGvkDQlzv_wZ7L0L78h-ULNFGW3_WK9QwPmWCGmTTe2k9ZjjnBmYOieaaZ5wrjS_uE9-zGVp4kl32Tf36WsvrGU90c-k2njLiK9j10gwYuBIf0Tl58c0VXzfLL_90s/s1600/33111444_10155319134277111_6211411295799869440_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40DfOZAl0tl4ZXcGvkDQlzv_wZ7L0L78h-ULNFGW3_WK9QwPmWCGmTTe2k9ZjjnBmYOieaaZ5wrjS_uE9-zGVp4kl32Tf36WsvrGU90c-k2njLiK9j10gwYuBIf0Tl58c0VXzfLL_90s/s200/33111444_10155319134277111_6211411295799869440_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Me, at petrogyyph site summit</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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We stopped for lunch further along the way at the
even-smaller town of Austin, enjoying an excellent grilled ham and cheese at a café
on the main street, and that’s when the storm caught up with us. Torrential
rain, pea-size hail, an epic downpour soaked the town and sent water rushing on
the edge of road. As the storm slowed to a drizzle, we climbed over the little rain
river and into our newly-washed car. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Two hours later, we checked into a Holiday Inn Express in
the larger town of Fallon, some 60 miles east of Reno, setting us up for a
quick drive north back to Interstate 80 and the push into California.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Next Chapter: Left Coast downy ocean</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8514703016498961093.post-41137393728120999422018-05-22T11:43:00.000-04:002018-05-22T17:45:55.905-04:00On the Road Again, Chapter 5<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
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/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
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mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
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mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:8.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0in;
line-height:107%;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hubxEN7fbTn63TaWgKPN1sPtWqoQ2cGFWehfg0bdCTC5mYsO79VzZsnrXFuFmcXZkDxXAHXndGxxxg8R_jAG3KvitL1a2X83MQqZRwMekcjwERo_ZpUzWqZLj12L2lVMmFN-_Y72Sco/s1600/z-MAY_2864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1600" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hubxEN7fbTn63TaWgKPN1sPtWqoQ2cGFWehfg0bdCTC5mYsO79VzZsnrXFuFmcXZkDxXAHXndGxxxg8R_jAG3KvitL1a2X83MQqZRwMekcjwERo_ZpUzWqZLj12L2lVMmFN-_Y72Sco/s400/z-MAY_2864.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Running of the Photographers (Photos (c) Bonnie J. Schupp)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Five days of work, fun</b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>as photographers take aim</b></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>on a Western way of life</b></span></h2>
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SPANISH FORK, Utah – On our eighth day, and after some 2,500
miles of highway and dirt roads, we arrived in this town about an hour south of
Salt Lake City for the reason underlying the adventure: An assembly of close to
two dozen stock photographers from around the world gathering to shoot Western
images.</div>
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They had all paid close to a thousand dollars to take part
in the event, with the money benefitting a scholarship fund at Utah Valley
University. Organizers had taken care of the gnarly matter of model releases
from anyone who could conceivably end up in a picture – even the photographers
themselves – and arranged for volunteers to ride horses, rope and brand cattle,
round up wild horses and even stage a rodeo just for them during a hectic
four-day schedule.</div>
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But the bonus was all the fun and comraderie, with many of
the participants – and a bunch of companions who paid $150 to be “socials” –
meeting for the first time, but familiar with each others’ work. They are all “exclusive”
photographers at iStock, a company acquired a few years ago by Getty Images,
and its massive portfolio of images has grown beyond 10 million. (A tad over
1,600 of them are Bonnie’s.)</div>
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The countries they hailed from included Canada, Great Britain,
Sweden, Slovenia, Turkey and Australia.</div>
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At the opening night dinner on Tuesday, May 15, they bought raffle tickets at
10 bucks a pop to take part in small-group photo opportunities, and Bonnie won
what she wanted – photographing activities at a large animal veterinary clinic.
Unfortunately, the owner of a horse that had a large abscess drained opted not
to allow photos to be taken. Instead, she had the tougher challenge of shooting
the vet and his staff working on a bull and cows that were hemmed in by a metal
enclosure during procedures.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmhVbcN9_cimPffnXP03yDkxjgIfUg5TNjVUb9hwOIS8Dx5yVBd44FbTSbqHrGIo6wwEcFXgxbNE0vVSRmkFi4qxDy-lb8H09w4AX2ew-QBifVibbFCIi2pX5OLrgu4ensBXllsP4VPU/s1600/z-MAY_1480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmhVbcN9_cimPffnXP03yDkxjgIfUg5TNjVUb9hwOIS8Dx5yVBd44FbTSbqHrGIo6wwEcFXgxbNE0vVSRmkFi4qxDy-lb8H09w4AX2ew-QBifVibbFCIi2pX5OLrgu4ensBXllsP4VPU/s320/z-MAY_1480.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, getting an earful of equine affection. </td></tr>
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There was a morning at a couple of dairy farms, trying not
to step on manure (getting that out of shoe-bottom ridges was no fun at all);
an afternoon at a ranch; horse riders galloping past at a wilderness location;
the penning of cattle that were roped, one at a time, by men and young women
and then branded and given numerical ear tags (the young son of one of the
ranchers had some on-the-job training in both procedures); and a rodeo at the
arena in Nephi, a town about 35 miles south of Spanish Fork.</div>
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The final event was a party at a home on the outskirts of
town, where the backyard includes a full-size rodeo ring. Even lights. Sort of
a “Field of Dreams” for riding and roping. It was built by Casey Pratt, a
former cop who has a landscaping business but rodeo in his heart. And every
year, he has played host to a rodeo gathering whose guests include world
champions.</div>
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The various events showed how family is a key element of ranch
and farm life, and even rodeo. Fathers teach sons and daughters, and the
lifestyle becomes a bond between generations. There’s laughter when a boy about
8 years old tries to ride a steer as it was released after branding, and gets
tossed into the dirt in a split second. And he gets a pat on the back when he successfully
wields the electric branding iron.</div>
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Images that stay with me as an observer were of a dozen
riders rounding up a herd of wild horses and running them past the lined-up photographers.
And then there was <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“the running of the
photographers,” in which the horsemen rode behind as a group of the shooters
staged a Monty Pythonesque slow-motion gallop. Two of the comical runners
collided in the chaos, and three of them ended up tumbling into dirt. But no
one (and no camera) was injured. </div>
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And everyone took pictures of everyone, sharing them in
posts on the event Facebook page – including the hilarious video of the running
and falling photographers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMM5VG4-HcLExjvmQlgC5R4-lkWnVYMtJsvx4KzCZVGNMHLh9lIi81ymizfhLEyAb-pGbYfOE3re5NX41faXWVVo6juo4lNWO3AX2CuT6LaXwosjbKTH3hh4hGWEsN11DE-JZ3VFZ4ew/s1600/33112962_10155318561207111_2671706405299290112_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="845" data-original-width="845" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMM5VG4-HcLExjvmQlgC5R4-lkWnVYMtJsvx4KzCZVGNMHLh9lIi81ymizfhLEyAb-pGbYfOE3re5NX41faXWVVo6juo4lNWO3AX2CuT6LaXwosjbKTH3hh4hGWEsN11DE-JZ3VFZ4ew/s320/33112962_10155318561207111_2671706405299290112_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnie and "Clyde" (Photo (c) Roberto Adrian Sanchez)</td></tr>
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And our new friend Roberto, a Cuba-born resident of
Miami, took a few shots of Bonnie and me standing in the dark next to a vintage
wreck of a 1930s-style sedan – inspired, he said, at thoughts of Bonnie and
Clyde. (Yup, I was Clyde.) </div>
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Late Sunday night, back at the hotel, most of the shooters
and socials partied outside the headquarters motel entrance sharing their beer,
liquor and wine, and stories. Friendships forged since Tuesday’s dinner were evident,
and Facebook friend invites ensued before the parting. </div>
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One of the photographers, Owen from England, sat on a bench
with an old iStock beret upturned at his feet. Others began tossing coins, and
then a dollar bill, into it. Peggy-Jo, one of socials, wrapped a light blanket
around his shoulders. Another made an impromptu cardboard sign reading, “Will
Shoot for Food.” Shutters clicked. Then they all gathered around Owen – and
the sign – for a group portrait. I shot it with Bonnie’s iPhone. Turned out
pretty good, just like the entire event.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT8MnglW0WpE0udtGd030nxLxuwFxwHPkV4VOiGKzYz4FJtoarTT-NYofO-QOewbPZ_vYbQf6I52Y0lL2PJOfF4aSCUMKpKzTlvXVRyXNfliJUYF7K2OWqB70YGmxJUKGnkLCb37nf6s/s1600/33059041_10155316716137111_4295468866575794176_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT8MnglW0WpE0udtGd030nxLxuwFxwHPkV4VOiGKzYz4FJtoarTT-NYofO-QOewbPZ_vYbQf6I52Y0lL2PJOfF4aSCUMKpKzTlvXVRyXNfliJUYF7K2OWqB70YGmxJUKGnkLCb37nf6s/s400/33059041_10155316716137111_4295468866575794176_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last-night party group, except for me. (Photo by David M. Ettlin, that's why!)</td></tr>
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<i><b>Next Chapter: Surviving U.S. 50 in Nevada</b></i></div>
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David Ettlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00858701708865222941noreply@blogger.com0